Oil Cooler Pipe Leak?

[JakeRenshaw89]

Hey guys!

I recently changed my water pump, timing belt, radiator, hoses, etc., about 1000 miles ago. I noticed I have a coolant leak and am trying to determine if this is the oil cooler pipe or not and looking for some help to determine if it is and possibly a part number. I did a search but didn’t find anything relevant (could be user error!).

2001 LC

Pictures kinda suck but it’s tight in there but it appears to be leaking at that T.

 

[94SRUNNER]

It does look like that could be a culprit, but you need to clean it up and then check.

I would enter your VIN on www.partsouq.com and you will have access to the various parts diagrams

 

[JakeRenshaw89]

It does look like that could be a culprit, but you need to clean it up and then check.

I would enter your VIN on www.partsouq.com and you will have access to the various parts diagrams

Good call, looks like I found the correct diagram. Thanks!

Has anyone changed that whole assembly without removing the fan shroud? Looks like I’ll have to take the belt off for sure.

 

[JakeRenshaw89]

Also, I’ve looked at a few different sites and it appears that oil cooler pipe (15767-50040) is discontinued….

 

[nissanh]

Replace all those hoses. I replaced all that when I did the throttle body. Buy it from partsouq.com. Also there is a small hose right below the throttle body (return line).

 

[JakeRenshaw89]

Replace all those hoses. I replaced all that when I did the throttle body. Buy it from partsouq.com. Also there is a small hose right below the throttle body (return line).

So replace all the hoses and leave the original oil cooler pipe?

Did you have to remove the fan shroud and serpentine belt to do it? I imagine so given it’s pretty tight in there.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Also, I’ve looked at a few different sites and it appears that oil cooler pipe (15767-50040) is discontinued….

Check out the parting out section in the Classifieds and there are a couple Facebook groups that you might have some luck with. Have you confirmed the hardpipe is bad?

 

[94SRUNNER]

If your hard pipe there is not bad then just replace the hoses and clamps.

 

[JakeRenshaw89]

If your hard pipe there is not bad then just replace the hoses and clamps.

I’m new to the Land Cruisers so forgive me! How would I best determine if that hard cooler pipe was bad you think?

 

[94SRUNNER]

Well it is likely not bad, it is most likely a failed hose and/or clamp. If you want to be certain, you will need to pull it off, clean it and inspect it.

 

[Mike NXP]

So replace all the hoses and leave the original oil cooler pipe?

Did you have to remove the fan shroud and serpentine belt to do it? I imagine so given it’s pretty tight in there.

You shouldn't need to replace the pipe, just the rubber hoses w/ new clamps. All OEM Toyota parts, no aftermarket.

That does appear to be where the leak is coming from but like mentioned above you should clean it all off. Without the engine being super hot you can spray some foaming degreaser in there and low pressure wash it all down. Try to avoid alternator and electronics but either way it's fine.


After full engine cool down, make sure radiator and overflow are topped off. Run engine and monitor leak to see if that is indeed where it's coming from. Then replace rubber lines as necessary. Serpentine belt will need to come off but the fan and shroud shouldn't be in the way for those hoses but I'm not totally sure. Take your time removing hoses don't force them . If stuck in place there are some tricks to help get them off. If your lucky they will twist and wiggle right off.

 

[Mike NXP]

Sort of relevant thread. One of the harder to get to lines appears to be a bitch but i don't think it's the lines you have pictured above

Anyone replaced oil cooler coolant lines?

Starting to reassemble after replacing timing belt. The goal was to replace all rubber coolant/heater parts as well but I'm scratching my head on how to replace the coolant line that runs between the oil cooler and the engine block. See 15777 on the attached diagram. Without removing the...

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Posted from a reply
"Did mine. It was annoying but doable. Hardest part was getting hose off, not clamp. Need hose clamp cable pliers and some long needle nose hose pliers and assorted hose picks."




*** Hose clamp pliers should be on your to-buy list


another good tip, always order OEM clamps. They come with like these little holders on them that keep em' open until installed then you pull the holder.

 

[Malleus]

I'm a big fan of the venturi sprayers; I have the Guardair. Best money I've spent on cleaning supplies, hands down.

Connected to my compressor, I can clean almost anything off the engine or engine compartment, with water only; I rarely use degreaser or detergents anymore. And, it doesn't get the entire area wet like a pressure washer would.

 

[Malleus]

Try Dave Stedman at Japan4x4 for your parts.

 

[Mike NXP]

I'm a big fan of the venturi sprayers; I have the Guardair. Best money I've spent on cleaning supplies, hands down.
View attachment 3773306
Connected to my compressor, I can clean almost anything off the engine or engine compartment, with water only; I rarely use degreaser or detergents anymore. And, it doesn't get the entire area wet like a pressure washer would.

^^ Solid advice for sure......Lately I've been using my leaf blower for some vehicle cleaning chores, thinking , man I wish I had an air compressor lol

On the flipside I'd like to know if some water in the engine bay is going to bring out any gremlins while I'm in my driveway VS out on the trails

 

[Malleus]

I always wash the engine while it's running, just in case water gets near the sparks, so the heat will run it out. I also run it at idle for 10-15 minutes afterwards, to make really sure it's dry. Never had a problem.

 

[JakeRenshaw89]

Awesome, thanks for all the replies and suggestions fellas, really appreciate it!

 

[nissanh]

I can see a cut at the bottom of the hose (right inside the water droplet in the first picture). You may not need the metal pipe.

 

[2001LC]

A stuck radiator cap, increase pressure in coolant system. Increase pressure, will reveal weak spots/leaks.

I pressurize coolant system to find leaks. I use my compressed air set to 15 PSI, attached to coolant reservoir hose going to rad cap. Helpful when looking for leaks.

It's more likely your hose attached to front water hard pipe is leaking. Which if clamp not placed back in same position (indentation) they leak 5 out of 10 times. I see sign of improper service, likely during Timing belt and or fan bracket R&R. Where the crank sensor and oil sending unit wire housing, is routed wrong. So whomever work on this, made procedural mistakes.

Engine run hot for a few reason. The more heat, the more pressure. Stuck cap or thermostat are just two reasons. Here's another:

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

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