Oil change time. . .and what do I see ! ? (5 Viewers)

[Saito]

Something anyone who’s been here long knows to look for:

Two studs in the back were finger tight. Thankfully the nut hugger did its job . . .on one nut I guess. Preventative measures only go so far. Gonna get on ASR parts and get a new set. Snugged the remaining ones up and torqued them to 71ft/lb.

So here’s your reminder to check yours.

 

[LongDuck]

How does that even happen with the fingers of the keepers still in place? Did the stud unscrew from the hole AND the nut, such that the nut then just fell away?

...and your balls are dryer than a ghost fart (*don't take that personally)!

 

[Saito]

How does that even happen with the fingers of the keepers still in place? Did the stud unscrew from the hole AND the nut, such that the nut then just fell away?

...and your balls are dryer than a ghost fart (*don't take that personally)!

No idea. Just feel lucky that I noticed it before that last one came loose. Knuckles are full of moly grease. Seals are a couple years old(along with the rest of it). Just barely dripped any.

Think once the new hardware is in and torqued up, I’ll mark them and drill holes through the studs for safety wire like an aircraft uses. Then it can’t go anywhere even if it’s loose.

 

[baldilocks]

Something anyone who’s been here long knows to look for:
View attachment 3977424
Two studs in the back were finger tight. Thankfully the nut hugger did its job . . .on one nut I guess. Preventative measures only go so far. Gonna get on ASR parts and get a new set. Snugged the remaining ones up and torqued them to 71ft/lb.

So here’s your reminder to check yours.

My solution was to get the ARP studs and nuts from Front Range off road and torque to 110lbft. I do rechecks after adventurous rock crawling but only a few degrees of angle have I ever found one loose a few times. As an A&P I’m a believer in safetying fasteners but not in the case of these knuckle studs. More torque and regular rechecks fit the bill for me and should for you as well.

 

[Kernal]

Everyone has their own process but for those that haven't done it before here's one method for installing these studs, FWIW.

Before installing new studs it helps to super clean (old/dirty) threads, run a thread cleaning tap down the hole, clean the hole and the cleaning tap with solvent/acetone, run the (cleaned) cleaning tap down again, blow the threads clean with acetone, repeat, repeat, repeat until the the threads are squeaky clean, no short cuts. If the threaded holes are nasty I may also run a cleaning brush down to break loose any crud. Also fully remove any oil/crud from the studs. Only way IME to get the knuckle stud hole threads that clean IME is to take the steering knuckle off the axle housing. Yeah, OCD, but it works.

Then a couple of drops of your favorite thread locker (Red vs Blue, your choice) into the hole and on the threads of the new stud, torque the studs all the way down (not just girly tight). I let those sit 24 hours to fully cure, then install the cone washer and cleaned nut (with thread locker) and torque those down.

You can use a Loctite Primer/Activator (SF 7649 for example) applied first to the metal (more important for stainless steel, any plated steel component), let that dry before you apply the thread locker. You need to work fast once the thread locker is applied as things can set up in seconds with the Activator. Better to still wait 24 hours if possible for it to fully cure IMO.

When to use Loctite Activator with your Loctite Threadlocker

All metals are not the same in their characteristics. That is a widely known fact in the engineering world. And hence, they do not behave the same in how they interact with substances, in how they can be processed and handled etc. When it comes to bonding in general, and threadlocking...

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