Thanks C-, 
D-
D-
Oil and Motors
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Cary-
Don't alter the wording of what I said, but perhaps I wasn't clear enough.
>>One story was about how somebody had fried their motor shortly after having >>left his place, they brought it in asking questions and he was put under the >>car to inspect what may have happened. He said he had to hacksaw the >>filter to get it off and inside it there was far too much filter material compared >>to a FRAM. It was his belief that the Valvoline filter had caused the oil to >>flow too lean throughout the motor and caused it to overheat.
>Consider the source!!!! Let's see here, he just changed the oil but had to >hacksaw the filter to get it off!!!
I never said he had changed the oil, just that he worked at the same place.
>There was too much filter media???
I said compared to a FRAM filter, and too much can be a bad thing. Perhaps it's a quality versus quantity thing. I won't claim I know.
>Even assuming the filter had clogged, the bypass would have opened. I will >suggest two more likely scenarios 1) the oil changer failed to put oil in, or the >filter was leaking, he torqued the s#!t out of it and it still leaked and pumped >the oil out, or 2) the engine was already in trouble and it died.
Again, I won't claim I know, but I personally believe that the heat from the problem may have caused 'swelling' and locked the filter onto the motor.
Then again, I may not be remembering that part of the story so well and he just hacksawed the filter to take a look inside it and see if there was a problem inside.
I hope we can work together and figure this thing out!
Don't alter the wording of what I said, but perhaps I wasn't clear enough.
>>One story was about how somebody had fried their motor shortly after having >>left his place, they brought it in asking questions and he was put under the >>car to inspect what may have happened. He said he had to hacksaw the >>filter to get it off and inside it there was far too much filter material compared >>to a FRAM. It was his belief that the Valvoline filter had caused the oil to >>flow too lean throughout the motor and caused it to overheat.
>Consider the source!!!! Let's see here, he just changed the oil but had to >hacksaw the filter to get it off!!!
I never said he had changed the oil, just that he worked at the same place.
>There was too much filter media???
I said compared to a FRAM filter, and too much can be a bad thing. Perhaps it's a quality versus quantity thing. I won't claim I know.
>Even assuming the filter had clogged, the bypass would have opened. I will >suggest two more likely scenarios 1) the oil changer failed to put oil in, or the >filter was leaking, he torqued the s#!t out of it and it still leaked and pumped >the oil out, or 2) the engine was already in trouble and it died.
Again, I won't claim I know, but I personally believe that the heat from the problem may have caused 'swelling' and locked the filter onto the motor.
Then again, I may not be remembering that part of the story so well and he just hacksawed the filter to take a look inside it and see if there was a problem inside.
I hope we can work together and figure this thing out!
[quote author=Shortbus link=board=2;threadid=6644;start=msg54336#msg54336 date=1066928879]
If Penn-Soil has changed, that's great.
Filters>>> OEM = excellent (For Toyota that is), Purolator has always been good stuff too.
Oil>>> Mobil 1 - Redline if cost is not an issue. Prolly Chevron for dino. Sorry to hear about valvoline.
[/Quote]
Pennzoil changed their base oils several years ago and in one step went from the bottom the barrel (so to speak) to the top. I would have never used Pennzoil, but they have really changed their product.
I agree with you 100% about using OEM filters. I will not run anything up OEM on any of my cars (BMW had the same problem with Fram in the 70's & 80's, the M10 motors would occationally blow the filters apart).
People know my thoughts on Synth, Mobil1 and Redline. For the Money Mobil 1. Even thought I am not a fan, Amsoil is a good oil (their full synthetics, not the cheaper crap). Royal Purple has turned in varied results, and seems to have trouble staying in grade (and some of their formulas are semi-synth, not full Group IV or Group V).
Cary
If Penn-Soil has changed, that's great.
Filters>>> OEM = excellent (For Toyota that is), Purolator has always been good stuff too.
Oil>>> Mobil 1 - Redline if cost is not an issue. Prolly Chevron for dino. Sorry to hear about valvoline.
[/Quote]
Pennzoil changed their base oils several years ago and in one step went from the bottom the barrel (so to speak) to the top. I would have never used Pennzoil, but they have really changed their product.
I agree with you 100% about using OEM filters. I will not run anything up OEM on any of my cars (BMW had the same problem with Fram in the 70's & 80's, the M10 motors would occationally blow the filters apart).
People know my thoughts on Synth, Mobil1 and Redline. For the Money Mobil 1. Even thought I am not a fan, Amsoil is a good oil (their full synthetics, not the cheaper crap). Royal Purple has turned in varied results, and seems to have trouble staying in grade (and some of their formulas are semi-synth, not full Group IV or Group V).
Cary
I was not aware that FRAM has 'race' filters different from their ordinary stock. I guess I should have thought they would have something like that. Is the packaging different? Where can you find them?
Concerning the discussion about my work friend, he was a real hot rodder kind of guy and I wouldn't put it past him to have a 'race' filter on his cars.
Concerning the discussion about my work friend, he was a real hot rodder kind of guy and I wouldn't put it past him to have a 'race' filter on his cars.
I remember he said to buy the longer FRAM filter for my car as long as it would clear the headers. There were two sizes I could buy and he insisted I buy the bigger one. It was so long ago now.
I see on the FRAM website they have 4 different oil filters for the FJ80. Extra Guard, Tough Guard, Double Guard, and X2 oil filters. Should one of these be considered 'race'?
I see on the FRAM website they have 4 different oil filters for the FJ80. Extra Guard, Tough Guard, Double Guard, and X2 oil filters. Should one of these be considered 'race'?
[quote author=hfpieratt link=board=2;threadid=6644;start=msg54354#msg54354 date=1066930593]
I remember he said to buy the longer FRAM filter for my car as long as it would clear the headers. There were two sizes I could buy and he insisted I buy the bigger one. It was so long ago now.
I see on the FRAM website they have 4 different oil filters for the FJ80. Extra Guard, Tough Guard, Double Guard, and X2 oil filters. Should one of these be considered 'race'?
[/quote]
Don't know but stick with OEM. Somebody can give you the correct part number for the "good filter." BTW, concerning Valvoline Durablend, it is 50/50 Valvoline Synth and Valvoline All Climate, at least that was what the engineer from Valvoline told me 5 years ago.
Cary
I remember he said to buy the longer FRAM filter for my car as long as it would clear the headers. There were two sizes I could buy and he insisted I buy the bigger one. It was so long ago now.
I see on the FRAM website they have 4 different oil filters for the FJ80. Extra Guard, Tough Guard, Double Guard, and X2 oil filters. Should one of these be considered 'race'?
[/quote]
Don't know but stick with OEM. Somebody can give you the correct part number for the "good filter." BTW, concerning Valvoline Durablend, it is 50/50 Valvoline Synth and Valvoline All Climate, at least that was what the engineer from Valvoline told me 5 years ago.
Cary
hfpieratt,
I didn't want to seem like I was setting you up on the Fram filter thing but I kinda knew what was going to happen since Fram filters have been beat up pretty bad for about 8 years now.
They are a large company and make filters for just about everything that uses oil. Some filters are made in Japan, some in Korea, and who knows where. They source the filters wherever they can get them built the cheapest and their design & quality has been "spotty."
The FRAM x2 (I think that's what it is called) gets some decent reviews but the typical cheap FRAM is an oil filter that most "informed" people avoid.
-B-
I didn't want to seem like I was setting you up on the Fram filter thing but I kinda knew what was going to happen since Fram filters have been beat up pretty bad for about 8 years now.
They are a large company and make filters for just about everything that uses oil. Some filters are made in Japan, some in Korea, and who knows where. They source the filters wherever they can get them built the cheapest and their design & quality has been "spotty."
The FRAM x2 (I think that's what it is called) gets some decent reviews but the typical cheap FRAM is an oil filter that most "informed" people avoid.
-B-
[quote author=cary link=board=2;threadid=6644;start=msg54340#msg54340 date=1066929295]
[/Quote]
Pennzoil changed their base oils several years ago and in one step went from the bottom the barrel (so to speak) to the top. I would have never used Pennzoil, but they have really changed their product.
I agree with you 100% about using OEM filters. I will not run anything up OEM on any of my cars (BMW had the same problem with Fram in the 70's & 80's, the M10 motors would occationally blow the filters apart).
People know my thoughts on Synth, Mobil1 and Redline. For the Money Mobil 1. Even thought I am not a fan, Amsoil is a good oil (their full synthetics, not the cheaper crap). Royal Purple has turned in varied results, and seems to have trouble staying in grade (and some of their formulas are semi-synth, not full Group IV or Group V).
Cary
Cary....
Absolutely agree. On newer German stuff I only use stock filters. On the older German car's I've had, I use stock, Mann, or Mahle. On one of my other boards there was some VERY lengthy discussion of M1 base stocks being significantly degraded from years past, and that they were relying on their reputation to keep sales up on the new M1 formula with cheaper base stocks in it. I can't say if ANY of that speculation is true or not. I use both M1 and Redline and like both. The tech guys at Redline have been absolutely great in recommending the correct stuff to run in a few different applications I've had. Pennzoil I just don't trust.... been $hitty for too long. But that's just my predjudice against it, maybe it's good now. I still wouldn't use it to lube my garage door spring.
hfpieratt.... Never mind the Fram stuff. Go to your local Toyota dealer and get a stock filter. Better quality than anything Fram makes for the LC.
[/Quote]
Pennzoil changed their base oils several years ago and in one step went from the bottom the barrel (so to speak) to the top. I would have never used Pennzoil, but they have really changed their product.
I agree with you 100% about using OEM filters. I will not run anything up OEM on any of my cars (BMW had the same problem with Fram in the 70's & 80's, the M10 motors would occationally blow the filters apart).
People know my thoughts on Synth, Mobil1 and Redline. For the Money Mobil 1. Even thought I am not a fan, Amsoil is a good oil (their full synthetics, not the cheaper crap). Royal Purple has turned in varied results, and seems to have trouble staying in grade (and some of their formulas are semi-synth, not full Group IV or Group V).
Cary
Cary....
Absolutely agree. On newer German stuff I only use stock filters. On the older German car's I've had, I use stock, Mann, or Mahle. On one of my other boards there was some VERY lengthy discussion of M1 base stocks being significantly degraded from years past, and that they were relying on their reputation to keep sales up on the new M1 formula with cheaper base stocks in it. I can't say if ANY of that speculation is true or not. I use both M1 and Redline and like both. The tech guys at Redline have been absolutely great in recommending the correct stuff to run in a few different applications I've had. Pennzoil I just don't trust.... been $hitty for too long. But that's just my predjudice against it, maybe it's good now. I still wouldn't use it to lube my garage door spring.
hfpieratt.... Never mind the Fram stuff. Go to your local Toyota dealer and get a stock filter. Better quality than anything Fram makes for the LC.
There was a lot of speculation about when Mobil went from the TriSynth to the SuperSynth Formula that they were switching to a Group III+ hydrocracked base stock, it was not true. In fact the Supersynth is turning in far better wear numbers than the TriSynth and previous formulas. It is clearly the best oil ever made by Mobil 1 and arguably better than Redline. It is still a true PAO base oil. Check out bobistheoilguy.com for the UOA's of M1, it is consistantly the best performing oil.
Cary
Cary
90915-20004, small good filter.
15600-41010, large old style good filter.
Either is just yummy
The small one makes a lot smaller mess coming off.
15600-41010, large old style good filter.
Either is just yummy
The small one makes a lot smaller mess coming off.
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=6644;start=msg54380#msg54380 date=1066934094]
90915-20004, small good filter.
15600-41010, large old style good filter.
Either is just yummy
The small one makes a lot smaller mess coming off.
[/quote]
C-Dan... I'm sure that both are very yummy filters. FWIW, my local Toyota parts pimp gave me the smaller filters on my last trip in. I asked him why not the bigger ones, since the bigger filter is on the engine now. He told me that the smaller filter was improved and actually had better filtering qualities than the older (big) filter. Any chance that this was true...... or was he just "out of stock" on the big ones.
Cary... Thanks alot for the clarification 411 on the Mobil 1 Tri-Syn. I've still been running it in my garage queen, and hoped that I was doing the right thing. It's all it's had in the crankcase since new.
90915-20004, small good filter.
15600-41010, large old style good filter.
Either is just yummy
The small one makes a lot smaller mess coming off.
[/quote]
C-Dan... I'm sure that both are very yummy filters. FWIW, my local Toyota parts pimp gave me the smaller filters on my last trip in. I asked him why not the bigger ones, since the bigger filter is on the engine now. He told me that the smaller filter was improved and actually had better filtering qualities than the older (big) filter. Any chance that this was true...... or was he just "out of stock" on the big ones.
Cary... Thanks alot for the clarification 411 on the Mobil 1 Tri-Syn. I've still been running it in my garage queen, and hoped that I was doing the right thing. It's all it's had in the crankcase since new.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Use a good synthetic, change it when ever., 15k is a nice number.. just change the filter and add a quart every 5 - 7k. I've had several high mileage engines open that used synthetic - spotless in there.
hfpieratt,
>> I personally believe ... that Fram oil filters are unequalled. <<
Well, technically you didn't say that you thought Fram filters were superior; just that they were unequalled. We *assumed* you meant they were better. You could have meant they were worse than everything short of a Dixie cup full of toilet paper duct taped to the side of the engine.
-B-
>> I personally believe ... that Fram oil filters are unequalled. <<
Well, technically you didn't say that you thought Fram filters were superior; just that they were unequalled. We *assumed* you meant they were better.
You could have meant they were worse than everything short of a Dixie cup full of toilet paper duct taped to the side of the engine. -B-
wob,
You had your chance... ya just gotta be quicker on the keyboard.
Brad,
Toyota offers 2 different "small" filters for the 1FZ-FE engine. The preferred 04 is higher quality and more expensive than the B5.
-B-
You had your chance... ya just gotta be quicker on the keyboard.
Brad,
Toyota offers 2 different "small" filters for the 1FZ-FE engine. The preferred 04 is higher quality and more expensive than the B5.
-B-
[quote author=bjowett link=board=2;threadid=6644;start=msg54387#msg54387 date=1066935963]
Use a good synthetic, change it when ever., 15k is a nice number.. just change the filter and add a quart every 5 - 7k. I've had several high mileage engines open that used synthetic - spotless in there.
[/quote]
You should not be pushing any oil to 15k without performing Used Oil Analysis. Generally, even Mobil 1, Redline and Amsoil (the three best) crap out between 8,000-12,000 miles. By crap out, I mean the additive package is depleted (TBN), often the oil is oxidized, it starts to thicken out of grade, and you see a spike in wear numbers such as lead, iron and aluminium.
How long an oil will last is a function of several item: Outside tempuratures, length of trips, condition of the engine, how stressed the engine is, quality of oil, oil capacity of the engine (more capacity, more additives to deplete), how hard you drive, and others. I do not recommend exceeding 7500 miles per change on Synthetic. If you live in a warm climate and drive only freeway miles, 10,000 would not be out of the question. If you live in Alaska, only drive two miles each way per day, tow Junk's trailer, and it is winter, 5,000 is pushing it.
Cary
Use a good synthetic, change it when ever., 15k is a nice number.. just change the filter and add a quart every 5 - 7k. I've had several high mileage engines open that used synthetic - spotless in there.
[/quote]
You should not be pushing any oil to 15k without performing Used Oil Analysis. Generally, even Mobil 1, Redline and Amsoil (the three best) crap out between 8,000-12,000 miles. By crap out, I mean the additive package is depleted (TBN), often the oil is oxidized, it starts to thicken out of grade, and you see a spike in wear numbers such as lead, iron and aluminium.
How long an oil will last is a function of several item: Outside tempuratures, length of trips, condition of the engine, how stressed the engine is, quality of oil, oil capacity of the engine (more capacity, more additives to deplete), how hard you drive, and others. I do not recommend exceeding 7500 miles per change on Synthetic. If you live in a warm climate and drive only freeway miles, 10,000 would not be out of the question. If you live in Alaska, only drive two miles each way per day, tow Junk's trailer, and it is winter, 5,000 is pushing it.
Cary
[quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=6644;start=msg54409#msg54409 date=1066937863]
wob,
You had your chance... ya just gotta be quicker on the keyboard.
Brad,
Toyota offers 2 different "small" filters for the 1FZ-FE engine. The preferred 04 is higher quality and more expensive than the B5.
-B-
[/quote]
Thanks B, I'll make sure I got the "good" small filters.
Oh, and BTW... "You could have meant they were worse than everything short of a Dixie cup full of toilet paper duct taped to the side of the engine." I'm still ROFLMFAO on that one. Almost had to reach for the Depends.
wob,
You had your chance... ya just gotta be quicker on the keyboard.
Brad,
Toyota offers 2 different "small" filters for the 1FZ-FE engine. The preferred 04 is higher quality and more expensive than the B5.
-B-
[/quote]
Thanks B, I'll make sure I got the "good" small filters.
Oh, and BTW... "You could have meant they were worse than everything short of a Dixie cup full of toilet paper duct taped to the side of the engine." I'm still ROFLMFAO on that one. Almost had to reach for the Depends.
The last time the Wulf was over to my place, his tape job failed and he barfed 3 quarts of M1 10-30 all over me sparkling driveway before he could get 'er shut down
