Oil and Motors (2 Viewers)

[Shortbus]

Cary...

Have you ever sent an oil sample in for analysis?? There were quite a few guys on my other board that sent samples in once a year or so.

One of the labs they were using was Hereguth Laboratories if I remember right. Here's a link to their site>
http://www.herguth.com/testing.htm

And, here's an example report...
http://www.herguth.com/testing/example.pdf

Think the other one was here...
http://youroil.net/

 

[cary]

I am currently in the process of getting enough miles on the Mobil 1, 0w-40 to get a UOA. I will send it to Blackstone labs. I would expect to pull the report in about 3 months.

Cary

 

[Shortbus]

Shoulda known. From your posts, sounds like you could manage the place.

Since I'm new, just not up to speed yet. The M1 0w40 is getting alot of props on the internet, it'll be interested to see how well it does on an actual test.

Tks,
Brad

 

[cary]

The Mobil 1 0w-40 has so far turned in very good wear numbers on Bobistheoilguy. The only concerns have been a tendancy for it to thin up to a low 40 weight, and in a few cases a high 30 weight. Most of the thinning has occured in Turbocharged motors which are driven hard so it is not a huge concern. Many also think it is part of the oil design, as the 0w-40 meets Mercedes 229.5, a spec that allows for up to 30,000 mile oil intervals in Mercedes Cars (note, nobody claims that this is a good idea, BMW's using BMW Branded Castrol Synthetic are destroying the oil before their regular 15,000 mile interval, 10,000 appears to be the reasonable max). The idea is that the oil initially thins a bit and then as it oxidizes it thickens back up, but due to the initial thinning does not thicken out of grade, and still maintains decent cold start properties.

The only open issue is what oils the landcruisers like. I tend to believe a heavy 30 weight or 40 weight oil is best given many cars seem happy in this weight range. At least a UOA will give an idea.

BTW, I wish I was an expert, but I am only an obsessive guy who spends to much time reading.

Cary

 

[cruiserdan]

Cary,

What would be the M1 oil to match up to a 15-40 Dino?


D-

 

[cary]

The 0w-40 would be closest, about the same when hot, but far better pumping when cold. Mobil 10w-30 is a very thin 30 weight, borderline 20 weight which is why I don't care to much for it.

Cary

 

[cruiserdan]

OK,

Curve balll time:

When I switched from 10-30 to 15-40 I got rid of the "1FZ start-up rattle". What would you speculate 0-40 would do about that issue?

Dan, who is struggling with his beloved Valvoline.........

 

[bjowett]

[quote author=cary link=board=2;threadid=6644;start=msg54480#msg54480 date=1066943152]
You should not be pushing any oil to 15k without performing Used Oil Analysis. Generally, even Mobil 1, Redline and Amsoil (the three best) crap out between 8,000-12,000 miles. By crap out, I mean the additive package is depleted (TBN), often the oil is oxidized, it starts to thicken out of grade, and you see a spike in wear numbers such as lead, iron and aluminium.

How long an oil will last is a function of several item: Outside tempuratures, length of trips, condition of the engine, how stressed the engine is, quality of oil, oil capacity of the engine (more capacity, more additives to deplete), how hard you drive, and others. I do not recommend exceeding 7500 miles per change on Synthetic. If you live in a warm climate and drive only freeway miles, 10,000 would not be out of the question. If you live in Alaska, only drive two miles each way per day, tow Junk's trailer, and it is winter, 5,000 is pushing it.

Cary
[/quote]

I agree whole heartily with your second paragraph. Oil analysis is good.... I've just run a couple of engines WAAAAAAY beyond what synthetic is supposedly capable of w/o problems. My latest test is my 01 Audi S4 Twin Turbo, it is getting the 15k or so changes... when I see 250k+ w/o problems, I'll let you know.

 

[Wayne]

Cary, this is strictly a curiosity question........ what keeps you from being a fan of Amsoil? You have made that statement a number of times on different threads. Just curious.

Wayne S

 

[cary]

Dan,

I have the start up rattle, so I can tell you the 0w-40 won't cure it. Given the rattle is probably caused by oil draining out the cam chain tensioner, thinner oils will drain more when cold and the 0w of the Mobil will make cause it to happen more often than a 10w or 15w. I just ignore it.

Wayne,

There are few reasons I don't like Amsoil.

1) Its expensive for what it is. Their good stuff is a group IV POA, same as Mobil 1. Their cheaper stuff (the 7500) is Group III+, not nearly as good of basestock in my opinion (In Europe you cannot call a group III+ oil synthetic). At least when you spend the extra for Redline you get a Group V ester oil.

2) Related to #1, their good oils turn out pretty good numbers, their cheaper oils do not.

3) They mislead the public by saying you can do 30,000 mile plus oil changes. In fact they limit it to once a year (severe conditions 6 months), but even then, that could be pushing it. They are not forthcomming with this information.

4) I disagree with their philosophy. They use group IV stocks on their better oils and very few additives. I think that it is a balance and they are on the wrong side of it.

5) I don't like their marketing. The four ball wear test, that is for grease. They make a lot of claims, but they do not do any type of scientific testing to back it up.

Amsoil makes a good product in their full synths. For the money, I think Mobil 1 is a better value, and if you want to spend more, I like Redline.


Cary

4)

 

[cruiserdan]

Cary,

OK again. Is there a synthetic counterpart to a 15-40 on the low end?

 

[landtoy80]

Dan, M1 has a 15w50. That should work with your TRD. I think is for Turbo and SC motors.

As for my 80 I will have to wait for group X so it won't "suck through" at high rpm's.

 

[Safado]

So a 15W-50 for the TRD in the Spring/Summer, what about the snowy winter...not that Dan has to worry about that in Albe...Alba....Albi...oh whatever!

 

[cruiserdan]

A-L-B-U-Q-U-E-R-Q-U-E..........


Yer beer may freeze in January if you leave it in the back.


IIRC, it flurried once last year :-\ We are in a SERIOUS drought.

 

[landtoy80]

Just spell YOLK

 

[Big_Moose]

Cary

What about the M1 15w-50 Trisyn in Southern Kalifornia? I have been running this oil for the past 2 to 3 months / 3,000 miles. It is due for a change, which is on the short side of working life, but I need a baseline UOA to measure against up coming oil changes.

The 15w-50 M1 has almost completely eliminated the start-up rattle. I only hear the rattle when I let the 80 sit for a few days.

Joe

 

[landtoy80]

Dan only K-stone lite will freeze as its 99.999% water
THat stuff will freeze at 40F

 

[Safado]

So no that poking fun at Dan wasn't worth a post of it's own... But I was really looking for recommendations in which M1 to use here in Utah. I run a TRD as well.

Hot summers and cold winters

 

[91fj80]

here my 2c

10k mile or more oil change intervals on any car is awful-
Dirty oil causes unessesary engine wear/friction- undisputable.
that will probably make a huge difference in your engines later life. Audi's are very well made cars, (nickle lined cylinders right?) and it still would probably go that 250k; but if you treat it right it will be around for alot longer. Keep your records together and when you ready to sell, spend a little extra time finding the right buyer- you'll recover the extra cost of the oil changes plus some. Not to mention save someone grief when the engine does finally go out... People who sell new cars don't want yours to last forever, Vehicals/engines would be engineered very differently if they did- so would the maintenace scheadual I'd bet.

From my expiriance:
Most american cars rarely last 250k without major work.
I've seen quite a few barely make it past 100k (buick's & pontiacs)
Japanese and german cars often last 250k or more
Care is always integral to a vehicles longevity.

synthetic oil makes a big difference- worth the extra money for up to 5-7k depending on how it looks. -you do check it don't you

A large magnet on the oil pan is a cheap and effective trick for extra protection.

most engine wear occur's during starting- somthing that can be massive improved with the edition of a Prelube system, which lubes the engine before cranking.

Oil/trans coolers are good for improving longitivity.

M1's awsome, same with redline; have no expiriance with amsol.

systems 40 is a great aditive.

hmm... that's it...

 

[GXO]

Using fancy lil filters from Toyota...
157K on the ticker
Using the High Mileage flavor of dino juice
Changing every 3K miles or when it looks dirty...

I have no problem with this arrangement.