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I'd help get those take-offs off your hands and out of your way ...
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Sure..send me a pm.
 
Leaking fluid or not, shocks/struts with 116k miles are well shot. I don't know where this myth started that shocks are fully functional unless/until fluid is coming out of 'em...
Roger that, i hear ya that stuff wears out, esp > 100K. but ;) for me....
I'm on 185K on my stock bits and they're still going well but for me, take-offs with lots less mileage could be convenient on-hand backups for when my stuff goes out. parts in wait. ;)
 
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Ok I have a question. How do you remove the stepper motor from the top of the front struts?

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There are some tricky to get to allen heads you have to get loose to pop that off.
 
OK I thought that might be the case. Know the allen size, looks like possibly 4mm? Will the bracket come off once the motor comes off? I started on it this afternoon and I had to stop but going to get back after it tomorrow. I have the upper ball joints popped out and started pulling the passenger side UCA bolt and I'm hitting a hose. I did not pop the hood to see if I can flex it to get by. I have not been looking forward to those long UCA bolts every since I realized that's what was used. Anyone know exactly what has to be removed to get them out on both sides?
 
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OK I thought that might be the case. Know the allen size, looks like possibly 4mm? Will the bracket come off once the motor comes off? I started on it this afternoon and I had to stop but going to get back after it tomorrow. I have the upper ball joints popped out and started pulling the passenger side UCA bolt and I'm hitting a hose. I did not pop the hood to see if I can flex it to get by. I have not been looking forward to those long UCA bolts every since I realized that's what was used. Anyone know exactly what has to be removed to get them out on both sides?
I believe those Allen bolts are 4mm, and gather 2-3 variations/lengths of Allen wrench, took me two tries, the one my neighbor had worked. The space back there is tiny. Penetrating spray might be useful if you plan on reusing them. There is one bolt in front and one in the back. The one in the back is a challenge.

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So you can get a standard 4mm allen wrench in the bolt then turn the whole top to get to the back side. Once the motor comes off there is a nut holding the bracket. Hold the nut at the top of the shaft with a 19 mm wrench and you can get a 19 mm socket on the bracket nut. Mine was not super tight.

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So to pull out the passenger side upper control arm bolt you need to remove to supply hose from the power steering reservoir to the pump. I took out the 3 bolts holding the reservoir and pull the whole unit with the hose out of the way. Make a small catch pan for the fluid.

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On the drivers side you have to take off the bracket holding the battery cable wire loom. Also when going back you have to start the bolt in the control arm then lift it into position with bolt in it. You will never get it started with control arm already in place. This part without a doubt is a 2 man job.

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Those are details I hope helps others. I could not find any info on either. Also you guys doing this without a lift are better men than I am. Lol.
 
Oh and don't make the same mistake I did if the preload collar has a pinch bolt. I forgot to loosen then pinch bolt so I could turn the collar. Had to pull the coilover back out to get to it. You can see it in the pics its where I can get to it now. You have to make whole turn adjustments so it ends up with access. I also forgot to take measurements before I started.
 
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Thanx for the info on the stepper motor. That had me confused for a minute. Hard to believe with all the build threads there was no info on getting those off.
Yeah nothing really detailed. They were a pain, broke both of mine last week. Was reusing them so I had to epoxy them back together...

I've also thought, "what if I took the shocks off when I had it in the sport setting, then with the little motor attached change the setting to cushy, then when I reinstalled the shocks would be on "sport" but the system would think "soft" so then when you turned it to sport again it would stiffen the dampening even more thus becoming hyper sport (stiff) springs? It would probably blow something in the shock though
 
Yeah nothing really detailed. They were a pain, broke both of mine last week. Was reusing them so I had to epoxy them back together...

I've also thought, "what if I took the shocks off when I had it in the sport setting, then with the little motor attached change the setting to cushy, then when I reinstalled the shocks would be on "sport" but the system would think "soft" so then when you turned it to sport again it would stiffen the dampening even more thus becoming hyper sport (stiff) springs? It would probably blow something in the shock though
I deal with adjustable suspension quit a bit with dirt bikes and there are max limits to adjusters. Most are manual but we have some stepper motors on adventure bikes. Its turning a rod that opens and closes most likely a valve on the compression side. I'm sure the setting are maxed out in sport. Also if you look the bracket is indexed so it will line up properly when you install the motor.
 

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