off to slay the birfield dragon (2 Viewers)

[Beowulf]

Doug,

You're right, I misread.

Riley,
No worries on the axle tube seal. As Doug mentioned, the seal will be riding on a different part of the axle "shoulder" and that's a good thing. You wouldn't want it cocked 1/16" on one side and flush on the other.

(Sorry about repeating some of Doug's answers... we overlapped.

-B-

 

[Big_Moose]

Riley

1. I machined a tool to install the races, the head is the size of the race, and handle is rigid to accept the BFH. Initial tool was hardwood maple, which worked for quite a while.

2. As long as its on the seal surface of the axle shaft - you are ok. Also as "Mr. Wulf" mentions the final assembly / torque to spec. could of seated the seal.

3. Ditto

4. Yes! retorque to spec's within a couple of hundred miles. Make sure to check the preload on the wheel bearings, and caliper bolts.

5. Couldn't hurt to do a quite bleed at each corner if you think it feels soft.

Congradulations

Joe

 

[Riley]

Thanks guys, I'll be sleeping easier tonight. I did have to press the pads back a bit to get the calipers on. I'll check the master cylinder in the morning.

I guess I need to get on with the diff beather mod asap. Man I need a break, I'm exhasted.

One other interesting note. I bought a bunch of new tools to do this job and the only 2 tools that didn't work well were the cheap ones - grease gun and a gear oil pump. There is no cutting corners :

I was so tired and it was so late I didn't even have time or energy for step #6. But I managed a few brew-skis last night, before I really got started (step #-1).



Thanks to all the guys (Dan & B included) that convinced me that I (we) could do this.

R

 

[Beowulf]

Riley,
Unfortunately you won't be using any of those new tools for the diff breathers. A screwdriver, pocket knife, and maybe a 12mm socket is about all you need. You don't even need to raise the truck if you're a skinny guy.

There is a detailed post in the archives with instructions and pictures.
-B-

 

[Riley]

I'll raise it anyway just to use my new 12 ton jack stands and my Sears 3.5 rapid lift jack.

She's up in 5 min flat.

 

[skeddy]

i just finished the birfields on my 80 last week , with in an effort to beat dans new world record of 3 hours and 40 something minutes. but, no luck! it was the longest day of m the year...

 

[Koffer]

1) For future reference: what's the best way to drive in the inner wheel bearing races? Simon got through it using old race and drift but it's tough. I guess one should use a race installer tool of some sort if there is such an animal?

What I use for the race tool is an old race cut on one side all the way through so it can be taken out very easy after driving in the new one . Its cheap and free as they are tossed out at the end of the job anyhow.

 

[Riley]

Todd - That's interesting. Yes the problem we saw with using the old race is that it gets stuck inside because the new race is going to sit so far down inside.

Just let me clarify - you hacksaw the old race right through so it's sort of like a C-clip? This helps getting it out?

 

[cruiserdan]

I use the OEM SST's to set the bearing races and oil seals(Because I can You see the tool cabinets are in the parts room )

 

[Riley]

Dan -

The seals are no problem but the races are a .

Is the SST for the race (mainly the inner wheel bearing if there's a diff) expensive? and can a smart shopper obtain one?

 

[Koffer]

Just let me clarify - you hacksaw the old race right through so it's sort of like a C-clip? This helps getting it out?

Yes thats right and I cleaned up where I cut it with a file to take off the burrs

HTH some in 60K miles

on a job well done

 

[Photoman]

This is what I use sometimes to drive bushings/races/seals. It's an extension in a backwards socket. What's nice is for different jobs there are different size sockets.
Bill

 

[Beowulf]

skeddy,
Not to worry, it took me the better part of a 3 day holiday weekend.

>> an old race cut on one side all the way through <<

Now why didn't we think about that. Thanks!
-B-

 

[cruiserman]

[quote author=Riley link=board=2;threadid=5923;start=msg47866#msg47866 date=1065458803]
Dan -

The seals are no problem but the races are a .

Is the SST for the race (mainly the inner wheel bearing if there's a diff) expensive? and can a smart shopper obtain one?


[/quote]

IMO the seals are more of a pain to put in correctly w/o a seal driver. The races are a piece of cake. No SST required.

 

[cruiserman]

[quote author=Photoman link=board=2;threadid=5923;start=msg47895#msg47895 date=1065464260]
This is what I use sometimes to drive bushings/races/seals. It's an extension in a backwards socket. What's nice is for different jobs there are different size sockets.
Bill
[/quote]

That's what I use, too .

 

[semlin]

Hi folks, returning to the living. About 3 hours after leaving Riley's I came down with a nasty stomach flu that slew me worse than the birfields for 36 hours. I'd blame Riley's coffee but my whole family had it last week. Anyway, I have little to add to Riley's notes except that I
didn't find the wheel bearing races to be that big a deal but installing the inner races did destroy the drift ends by rounding off the edges. By the time they were all in the drift was ruined for this type of work. Is there an easy way to remachine the ends of the drift? I note Cruiserman and Photoman use a steel socket head, but wouldn't steel on steel damage the race?

Oh yeah, is there a torque setting for the small screws that hold on the inner felt knuckle seal? I tightened them up by feel. It looks to me like it would be easy for a shop to do a bad/lazy job of installing those seals.

We also found that there is a lack of clear instruction on how to get the spindle and knuckle off. As a result we spent half an hour figuring out you could tap the spindle end rather than grabbing it and quite a while debating whether it would be safe to undo the four studs on the knuckle that hold the lower arm that connects to the tie rod and steering. If Jim doesn't mind, I'll volunteer to add my comments on these to his thread in the tech section.

Overall not nearly as bad as I expected and the notes of others and photos helped a ton. Thanks to all the authors. It was also great to have two people since there were less brainlocks.

 

[Big_Moose]

Semiln

The "Brass" drift is generally used when you don't want to damage the material being struck, i.e. the drive plate cone washers, since you don't want to damage the stud threads. This is because the drift is comprised of a softer material [brass], which deforms rather then damaging the struck material.

The "races" should be installed with a "Steel" punch / drift, rather then the soft brass drift. The bearing race is a harden steel, and you are striking on the rim / lip of the race, which is not used by the tapered roller surface. The steel drift / punch allows a better transfer of energy to the race, since it doesn't deform at the contact point.

Anybody with a lathe can easily clean up your brass drift. You can put it in a vise and file it to shape, since it is a soft metal.

Can't remember the knuckle wiper torque spec's - but based on bolt diameter it is probably 12 to 15 ftlbs

The spindle can be removed by lightly tapping with a hammer. Could use a thin / small chiesel / screwdriver between the mating surfaces, etc.

Now its time to do your front axle, and stay away from Riley's coffee

Joe

 

[semlin]

Joe, thanks, I was definitely worried about marring the races at all so used the brass instead of steel. The spindles come off very easily with one light tap of a rubber mallet, provided you tap them on the outer end of the axle sleeve. We tried tapping the spindle at the housing for quite a while and it did nada.

I don't have a chuck for my lathe to hold metal. I was thinking of sticking it in the drill press, but I don't know what you use to shape the brass? A steel file or rasp maybe?

 

[cruiserman]

The races are dang hard (technical term), and I've never marred them during removal or install. I use the socket trick on seals and on the PS pump shaft bearing last night, but I usually just tap the races in with a hammer.

 

[Photoman]

Glad the socket trick is working out for everyone.
There are several ways to fix up the drift depending on how bad it is. You can touch it up with a hand held grinder, or put it in a vice and hacksaw off a piece if it is real bad. You can grind it on a regular grinder; but finish it off on the side of the grinding wheel as you don't want to hollow grind it. You can file it with a Bastard file or second cut if it is not too bad. Make sure you have a card file to clean up the file as it will load up since brass is a soft metal. You can put a piece of rough sandpaper (Double sided tape) on a steel or wood block and rub it back and forth. Etc. Etc.
Bill