OEM vs ARB lockers (1 Viewer)

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I have wheeled with so many people who have dual locked ARB rigs but are running partly open that day because something is wrong with the ARB system.




Guess I would find some people that know how to maintain their junk and run with them…

99-percent of all issues with the ARB are from piss-poor installation practices, with regards to both the electrical and air system.

Just because the hardware store sells tools, does not make someone a competent mechanic/electrician....



:meh:
 
Stock should more than get you around if you are just light wheeling but I would suggest an aftermarket locker system for extreme rock crawling mostly out of safety concerns


I take it from this statement that there is an inherent safety issue using stock lockers in extreme situations?

Please elaborate.


Also, if the rear axle splines tend to twist, what is the method of removing the rear half-shafts? And under what conditions do these tend to twist?

And finally, what is it about the factory lockers that causes this twisting to occur, but not with the aftermarket (Aussie or ARB) lockers?

thanks

Dana
 
I take it from this statement that there is an inherent safety issue using stock lockers in extreme situations?

Please elaborate.


Also, if the rear axle splines tend to twist, what is the method of removing the rear half-shafts? And under what conditions do these tend to twist?

And finally, what is it about the factory lockers that causes this twisting to occur, but not with the aftermarket (Aussie or ARB) lockers?

thanks

Dana

When an axle shaft breaks inside the rear locker,the twisted splines cause the stub of the axle to become caught in the locker. It is too long generally to allow the third member to be removed from the axle housing. So to remove the 3rd, you end up cutting apart the rear axle housing. There are several threads with gory pictures of this problem.:D:D

In an ARB, if the axle breaks, the stub is usually short and the third can still be removed for repairs.
 
The twisted axle issue isn't exactly an epidemic. Those few who have twisted them are rather hard on their trucks. I run 37's with e-lockers and I'm not terribly worried about it. Then again, I have a stock head gasket and I'm not sweating that either.

Locking time is a non-issue. Either setup will lock the instant there is any slippage. The e-locker might require one tire to slip 1/5 of a revolution. I doubt that's going to kill anyone's chances of getting out of a situation. If you go through an obstacle with the switch on and the locker doesn't engage, it's because it didn't need to. I don't understand people's hang-up with this.

I wouldn't pass up a good deal on an 80 because it lacked lockers, but I'd prefer them for sure. If I twist the splines on the rear axle, I can buy an unlocked axle and put an ARB in it then, for around the same price as I would have spent putting in two ARB lockers. Or I can buy another locked axle for less. Either way, I'm not out any money vs. dropping $2-3K on ARB lockers.
 
When an axle shaft breaks inside the rear locker,the twisted splines cause the stub of the axle to become caught in the locker. It is too long generally to allow the third member to be removed from the axle housing. So to remove the 3rd, you end up cutting apart the rear axle housing. There are several threads with gory pictures of this problem.:D:D

In an ARB, if the axle breaks, the stub is usually short and the third can still be removed for repairs.

Anybody have any links to said threads?

D
 
Guess I would find some people that know how to maintain their junk and run with them…

99-percent of all issues with the ARB are from piss-poor installation practices, with regards to both the electrical and air system.

Just because the hardware store sells tools, does not make someone a competent mechanic/electrician....



:meh:

I tend to wheel with people who are far more skilled than I am in terms of wrenching. Having o-rings go bad, or leaks in lines, or whatever...it happens all the time.

ARB's are a complex system, and they are prone to issues. Everybody who feels defensive about ARB's claims that it is because of installation issues, which if true just means that ARB's are difficult to install correctly.

My e-lockers are 15 years old. They have been serviced once in that time by the PO as PM at Slee. They work every time without having to think about it.

Find me ARB's with the same track record. Because I don't want to have to constantly maintain my junk. When I get a free day, I want to go wheeling. That's why I bought an 80.

For a moderate wheeler, the factory setup is far more sensible than ARB's. For the hardcore, the reliability of auto lockers becomes more sensible.

No way I'd spend the coin on ARB's if I didn't have to, but then that's why in over 10 years of wheeling I've never run them. :flipoff2:
 
If you're planning on dumping a #$%& load of $$ into hard core wheeling compenents then plan on the 2 g's for the ARBs in your budget. If not, like most here, hold out for good 80 with the OEM's. They have worked like a charm every time I've used mine. And IMO, 2g's can get you a lot of extras in your rig that you will use a lot more often than lockers.
 
I take it from this statement that there is an inherent safety issue using stock lockers in extreme situations?/QUOTE]

It is extremely unsafe. Especially with 37's :skull:
 
The twisted axle issue isn't exactly an epidemic. Those few who have twisted them are rather hard on their trucks. I run 37's with e-lockers and I'm not terribly worried about it. Then again, I have a stock head gasket and I'm not sweating that either.

When last did you pull the rear axles on your truck?

As for ARB's and reliability I agree with Poser, we have trucks in the field with years on ARB's with no issues whatsover. The e-lockers is fine, except for the stupid rear design. That said, I also speak to a lot of people that have actuator issues on trucks where the lockers were never used or in areas where there is a lot of corrosion.

The ARB 's are more complex however the internals are stronger than factory.
 
I take it from this statement that there is an inherent safety issue using stock lockers in extreme situations?/QUOTE]

It is extremely unsafe. Especially with 37's :skull:



And (again, I'm assuming) that's because of increased risk of failure (breakage) of a half-shaft, leading to loss of torque on that wheel?

Or is there some other safety issue with the larger tires?
 
The main reason I'm now installing factory lockers in my factory non-lockered 80 is the availability of parts & service when I'm not close to home.

If for some reason I broke down & part of the issue involved the differentials I stand a better chance of getting repaired & going semi-quickly (Dan's pretty much got everything in stock, or can get it rapidly) vs. having ARB's.

There is a Toyota part # for anything that would break ( and I've got Dan's/American Toyota's # in my glovebox) , and while I may not get the most superior service work if my truck isn't assigned to a "master tech", at least I stand a slightly greater chance than if I had ARB's & it was the 1st time any mechanic in the hypothetical shop I ended up in even saw an air locker.

The little issues like being able to operate the lockers in spite of actuator failure, rate of maintenance of ARB's, the slightly simpler design of the factory locker, etc. also help tip the scales in favor of electric lockers.

I've been told the ARB's are stronger, but in all reality I doubt I'll ever push the limit of the factory locker. To each their own.
 
How do these arb lockers handle the cold freezing temps here in Minnesota? Do the compressor and airlines freeze up as well?
 
And (again, I'm assuming) that's because of increased risk of failure (breakage) of a half-shaft, leading to loss of torque on that wheel?

Or is there some other safety issue with the larger tires?


It is not safety issue. It takes a lot to break the actual axle shaft. Even then you still deal with a full floater so no wheels that fall off. It is just an utter pita to get that axle shaft out. Had to do it three times. That was it. Granted, that was with larger tires and heave rock crawling, but I have seen it with 37's and 35's as well.
 
I am suprised that no one has mentioned the location of the factory lockers actuator and it's susceptibility to damage on the trail. If you find a truck with the factory lockers I would suggest you build or buy some type of skid plate for the actuator.

My '93 has factory lockers, once I went through the actuators and relubed everything, they have been flawless.

I had an ARB in my FJ-40 for almost 10 years and never had any problems what so ever.


Both are good systems, if the trucks with lockers cost $2000 more, then it's a wash.
 
Aussie vs ARB

I saw a few times posts asking about the difference but I never saw anyone explain any advantages or disadvantages for the ARB vs the Aussie? clearly the price is a big one with the Aussie... but a new saturn SUV is less expensive than a new LC, but the difference in quality far surpasses the gains in price difference--meaning saturns suck and thats why theyre cheap.

So what are some notable differences between the ARB and the Aussie lockers?? (for us unlocked noobs):cheers:
 
I saw a few times posts asking about the difference but I never saw anyone explain any advantages or disadvantages for the ARB vs the Aussie? clearly the price is a big one with the Aussie... but a new saturn SUV is less expensive than a new LC, but the difference in quality far surpasses the gains in price difference--meaning saturns suck and thats why theyre cheap.

So what are some notable differences between the ARB and the Aussie lockers?? (for us unlocked noobs):cheers:

They are completely different and operate on different principles.

ARBs are a full carrier locker that is a normal open differential until the driver decides he wants to lock it, and then it's a spool. IE completely locked. It's transparent when not in use and as a bonus, the carrier is an upgrade in strength over stock.

The Aussie is a locker that fits inside the stock carrier. It is basically always locked with a limited ability to unlock when not under torque. It ratchets, makes noise and can induce some undesirable driving characteristics. Most people find those things manageable given the cheap price of the locker, and if you're broke, an Aussie is a decent way to lock up the rear. Not recommended in the front of a full time 4wd 80.
 
I held out for factory lockers, twice, and never regretted it. They typically don't raise the cost and mine have always worked flawlessly.:meh:
 
so you purchased factory lockers to install on your unlocked 80? and they were priced about the same as ARB?
 
^^^more likely he searched and found factory locked vehicles, and the listing price was not significantly higher than the same or comparable rig would be without the Diff-Lock option.
 
^^^more likely he searched and found factory locked vehicles, and the listing price was not significantly higher than the same or comparable rig would be without the Diff-Lock option.


Ding Ding Ding:bounce::bounce2:
 

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