OEM Subtank Retrofit/Install Project With Pics (3 Viewers)

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Is this still an attainable project for someone starting now? Are all the parts still possible to acquire?
Anything is possible. It does take a bit of time and alot of money to do it OEM but the road map is laid out for you in this thread.
I think the parts are still available but you'd have to contact Dave at Japan 4x4, Beno and Akella to check on the availability of the various parts.

It is definetly a worthwhile and useful mod. So useful that my 100 has most of the parts waiting to be installed.
 
What is the total cost for all of the parts?
 
What is the total cost for all of the parts?

IIRC - about $1200;
-The over head console was about $150
-The transfer sending unit/computer was about $100
- the tank, with straps, the filler neck, all of the hoses/ hardware, float gauge for main tank and wiring harnesses/ Sub Switch were from a part out in Australia that was about $700 shipped.
-Lastly was the bung for the main tank and cutting and welding it on about $150.

It seems like a lot of money but if you plan on owning your 80 for some time, as I have and will, the convenience factor is well worth it.
 
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What is the total cost for all of the parts?

Kits that are mostly complete have sold in Mud classifieds for about $800 - $1200 but I haven't seen any listed for a while.

I've been collecting parts for about 2 years now and I have about $1200 into everything. I could have cut a couple hundred if I really had too. Biggest costs for me were $450 for the tank and $150 for the filler. Then there were mounting straps, fuel pump, subtank switch, sending unit, fuel pump bracket for main tank and a lot of little things that slowly added up.
 
Kits that are mostly complete have sold in Mud classifieds for about $800 - $1200 but I haven't seen any listed for a while.

I've been collecting parts for about 2 years now and I have about $1200 into everything. I could have cut a couple hundred if I really had too. Biggest costs for me were $450 for the tank and $150 for the filler. Then there were mounting straps, fuel pump, subtank switch, sending unit, fuel pump bracket for main tank and a lot of little things that slowly added up.

Thanks for making the effort. This sounds like what I was expecting!
 
I installed mine back in early 2005 and I spent 750 2005 dollars on components. That did not include a transfer pump as I already had one kicking around in the garage. Back then tanks were easier to find.

As a footnote that used Purolator diaphragm pump is still in there chugging away.:)
 
Thinking the same thing. I was thinking on the DS door.
That sticker seems like it would be in the cab. It's telling you to "switch off the sub tank fuel system". Seems like it would be near the switch.
Maybe on the visor or center console. The aussie sub tank equiped 80's had a similar shaped cardboard card that went into one of the clear sun visor pouches with a similar statement.
 
I am just about done rounding up parts for mine. They are available, but can be challenging (and $$$) to find.
 
Looking for a good excuse for another trip to Suriname. South American trucks have sub tanks?
 
That was incredibly ambitious! Hat's off.

Today I took ownership of a 1993 GCC spec 80 with sub-tank. My 100 GCC spec also has two tanks, but seems much simpler. The inlet has two pipes in it, and you fill each one in turn. The switch in the dash allows you to run off either independently, which seems to me a better system than the fuel transfer process of the 80.

Anyways, the truck was pinned on empty so I stopped at the gas station and here's a photo of the pump:
full

That is 35 US gallons. 70 bucks in case you were wondering. But 35 gallons!
 
Finally nailed down my coolant loss, the (probably original) mixing valve was leaking. I ordered an OEM replacement a few weeks ago and installed it today.

I also rerouted the PO's PHH bypass from around the brake master to b/n the master and the manifold. It looks MUCH cleaner now. I found in the process that the clamp on the lower end of the bypass hose was only halfway on the block nipple. Another coolant leak.

I've been bird dogging a cooling problem since I bought this truck ~5yrs ago. Hopefully getting to the end?

Before:
20171104_114259.jpg


After:
20171104_124445.jpg
 
Why didn't you replace that short piece of hose on the bottom left side of the heater control valve. Those pin style clamps are factory installed so that hose is more than likely original. It looks swollen, ready to burst and looks to be leaking on the left edge which indicates failure from the inside. The other hoses down lower to the left also look original. Time to replace them all.
 
That was incredibly ambitious! Hat's off.

Today I took ownership of a 1993 GCC spec 80 with sub-tank. My 100 GCC spec also has two tanks, but seems much simpler. The inlet has two pipes in it, and you fill each one in turn. The switch in the dash allows you to run off either independently, which seems to me a better system than the fuel transfer process of the 80.

Anyways, the truck was pinned on empty so I stopped at the gas station and here's a photo of the pump:
full

That is 35 US gallons. 70 bucks in case you were wondering. But 35 gallons!

Looks like you had 3 gallons left in there then. :flipoff2:
 
Looks like you had 3 gallons left in there then. :flipoff2:

The seller did say that the truck still had 90km left when the red low fuel light goes on, and the light had not turned on. So that kinda fits. ;)
 
i am in possession of a diesel tank with a two wire sender. maybe i missed it but i can't seem to locate the part number for the 3 wire petrol sender?

thanks ahead!
 

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