OEM Subtank Retrofit/Install Project With Pics (1 Viewer)

[tourboy]

For all those interested here are some pics of the pump setup as mr Yota installed it, the aftermarket "Long Ranger tank" and the standard 80 series sub tank (to compare to the 100/105 tank)

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

When I installed mine, I just disassembled the two parts like you have and was able to very easily get them into the truck. I cannot recall if I went from the front or rear, but it was not a struggle to get it into place. Then bolted them back together/into the capture-nuts, drilled the additional mount holes that are not in our rigs, and it was good-to-go. The only difference I can see with yours is that you still have the rear line attached, and I did not.



Steve

FWIW - I only bolted the transfer pump bracket in with the few captured nuts that were already there. I used thread lock and lock washers, so far it seeems secure and has not come loose in 1 1/2 years it has been there. I didn't bother with drilling additional holes in the floor.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

IIRC - I bent/trimmed the heatshield to acomodate the transfer pump bracket. No need to grind the bracket.

Before I break out the angle grinder and cut a piece off, I wanted to see if anybody has been down this path and has a better solution.

The picture 1 shows the transfer pump and solenoid assembly as it came from AU. Transfer pump and solenoid are on a bracket, and that bracket is attached to another bracket containing plumbing. Pic 2 shows the two brackets separated, and though shot from the top, the offending tab is slightly visable in the second shot.

Many OEM sub tank installations have proceeded without the plumbing bracket piece.

It appears that the plumbing bracket serves more as a heat shield from the exhast rather than any kind of mounting bracket (plumbing can readily be routed with soft hose).

No problem mounting the Pump/Solenoid bracket to the pre threaded holes. However I have tried threading the plumbing bracket in from the rear (pic 4) between the cross member and the body. The second Pic 4 (sorry, should have been pic 5) shows the area in front of the crossmember. I have tried removing the last section of the OEM exhaust, the front strap of the main tank, and tried threading the plumbing bracket over the cross member from front to back.

I think my only option to to trim the tab off with an angle grinder. Any idea what purpose that tab serves? Anybody installed this this bracket without triming the tab, or more drastic options to get more clerence.

 

[elmariachi]

FWIW - I only bolted the transfer pump bracket in with the few captured nuts that were already there. I used thread lock and lock washers, so far it seeems secure and has not come loose in 1 1/2 years it has been there. I didn't bother with drilling additional holes in the floor.

I did the same. Looking at my pics (because I sold the truck) it turns out I didn't install that L-shaped bracket at all. I bolted the pump assembly to the existing rivnut holes and left the other side with the rubber feet to press against the floorpan. No issues after 20k miles.

 

[aktundra]

Well, I zipped off the offending tab. I figure if the installation has been done without the whole dang bracket, it could certainly be done without that stupid tab !

If the main tank were out, the bracket could probably very easily be slipped in from front to back. I cut off the tab so the line on that surface was entirely flat end to end. then poped it between the cross member (from the rear pushing forward) and the exhaust shield with the heel of my hand.

I brought this photo forward from post #88 by JPHockerAZ. It clearly shows the tab "in position". With the bracket in place, I also discovered another threaded hole provided by Mr. T. the two holes used by the pump are also 8m x 1.25. The bolts used to secure the 3rd row seat bracket to the floor work just fine to hold things in place while you get permanent fasteners !!

 

[aktundra]

Well, this weekend I am waiting for rivnuts.
Like many that have approached this mod, I am treating it like a series of mini mods, with my DD back on the road after each step


Wondering if it is possible to changeout the main tank and filler? Plug the open plumbing, plug in the electronics, and still drive without the sub tank plugged into the harness ?

Once I take down the main tank, a clock will be ticking to get the replacement back in. To cut down on trying to figure things out as I go, can anybody tell me what A, B, C, and D plug into?

In case it is not clear in the photo, A, B, and C, still has a piece of hard line installed. Just cut and crimped by the dismantler.

 

[CycloSteve]

AK,

Once you remove the cover plate for this assembly inside the truck it will be pretty clear.

A = same vapor line as OEM one, will be clear which goes here
B = gas line to engine, same as OEM. Remove this one, and use the one on your rig (with new aluminum gaskets).
C = same vapor line as OEM one, will be clear which goes here
D = gas line from the transfer assembly.

As I said in one of my recent posts, remove and clean the sensors for the level-switch. These are located in the new main tank on the left-side. One of mine failed after installation, and I now have a new one being shipped from Japan.

I basically followed Jims' original path.

1. Do the electronics/rewire
2. Test-fit the sub (including access panel) - then remove
3. Remove main and filler tube
4. Install transfer assembly
5. Install new dual neck filler and filler tube to main
6. Install new main tank
7. Install subtank

Test everything for electrics/functionality and leaks. This took me close to a year to do my whole install, as I was going at it piece-meal and fixing a lot of different non-essentials (POR-15 to the tanks).

and I will be watching to see if anything pops up over the weekend. Feel free to PM me if you run into any glitches.

Steve

 

[aktundra]

That's one of the reasons I am proceeding so tentatively, cause I am piecing things together in a different order.

Rivnuts are on order, (so cannot install the sub tank).

Just punched "pay" on paypal to get the dash switch and ECU in the mail (so electronics are incomplete)

But I have been accumulating the pieces & parts for years and pretty eager to move things along, if i can without getting ahead of myself.

Also fabricating rain gutter clamps for my FJ40's new roof rack , I have waited this long, maybe I cool my heels on the sub tank project, and finish something else I have half done this weekend !!

 

[CycloSteve]

Oooh, new parts from Japan4x4

Received my new tank level switches from Dave at Japan4x4 yesterday. Made it here in a week. Definitely get in touch with Dave if you need any new parts for your Subtank setup, as he can turn them around pretty quickly.

Since my switch in the main has decided to get stuck (partially my fault for not cleaning) I decided to replace them. So, once the old are out, and the new in, I will clean, test and post the old ones for sale if anyone is interested.

In the meantime, had to share a few shots of the shiny-new-bits.

Just need to get a free weekend to drop the main and finish the job!



Steve

 

[aktundra]

Well my last parts came in this week (OEM ECU & Switch). So I think I will follow the advice on the thread, and install the wiring first. I have checked all the threads that I can find, but once I get the overhead loom down to the kick panel, I am not real clear what I am looking for under the kick panel that will be OEM.

It seems to me that at a minimum, I will be bringing 2 wires from the switch destined for the ECU. But not real clear what will be under the kick panel waiting, installed by Mr T, and what I will need to add.

The threads documenting this mod, are full of schematics, color coded wiring diagrams, pages from the FSM, but nothing "speaks" to me. The pics in post 1 of this thread are after Elmariachi's modifications. Not sure what will be provided.

Anybody got some "before" pic's?
What will I need to add besides the wires from the switch?

 

[CycloSteve]

Sorry, no pre-pictures. I too was a bit confused regarding where to start. Not sure if any post-pictures would help much either.

The best advice I have is to pull the kick-panel and find the different plugs. They are fairly straight-forward to figure out once you have things opened-up. Pulling the pins is relatively easy, and placing them into a new set of Mr. T plugs is also advised.

If you have the EWD for your year-model you will start to find wires in the plugs which correspond to the color charts in recent posts, but do not appear in the EWD. These "mystery wires" not found in the US EWD are the ones which will be going to your subtank setup. The most recent color coded charts are really helpful in sorting out what goes where, and which pins to pull.

Just shoot me a PM if you have any questions along the way.



Steve

 

[aktundra]

I have seperated the overhead console wiring harness, so that I only have the bundle for the sub tank gauge and the altimeter. I beleive the harness and the gauge pod came from the same vehicle.

Note that there are 5 wires on one side of the plug, and 6 wires going down the A pillar
Does that look right?

I beleive the black/white wire is the ground.
Can somebody tell me what the other wires going down the A pillar are for?

 

[TrickyT]

...The threads documenting this mod, are full of schematics, color coded wiring diagrams, pages from the FSM, but nothing "speaks" to me...

Not sure if this will help, and I'm not sure what year vehicle you have (hint: put info in your sig line) and wire coloring does vary somewhat year by year. But this may be useful:

On my 1997 FZJ80:
The DS kick panel floor wiring harness terminates in four connectors: ID1, ID2, ID3, and ID4. ID1 - ID3 have mating connectors and are documented on pg 32 of the 1997 USA EWD. ID4 (also labeled as IL4 in at least one non-USA EWD earlier in this thread) has no matting connector; it's a 10-position male plug, p/n 90980-10800. ID4 wire colors: 1 R-G, 2 R-L, 3 R, 4 R-B, 5 G-R, 6 x, 7 R, 8 B-L, 9 R-Y, 10 Y-L. Wires from ID4 pins 1-4 run directly to an undocumented 5-position white female connector, p/n 90980-11182, located under DS rear door next to BO1 shown on pg 34 of USA EWD. On the same non-USA schematic noted above this connector is labeled Bd2. Bd2 wire colors: 1 R, 2 R-B, 3 R-G, 4 R-L, 5 x. Wire from ID4 pin 9 runs to a 6-position gray female connector, p/n 90980-10988, located under tailgate (center) and identified as Bb1 in non-USA EWDs. Wire colors for Bb1 are: Y-L, Y-R, Y-G, R-Y, BR=gnd. R-Y in Bb1 runs to ID4, pin 9. Wires in Bb1 colored Y-x all supposedly run to ID1, but I have not personally verified this. The mating connector for Bb1 is the same connector as used on a non-locker ABS harness.

I personally did not go the OEM subtank route, but I did use the wiring described above in my subtank install.

 

[CycloSteve]

Revised 25 Feb

I have seperated the overhead console wiring harness, so that I only have the bundle for the sub tank gauge and the altimeter. I beleive the harness and the gauge pod came from the same vehicle.

Note that there are 5 wires on one side of the plug, and 6 wires going down the A pillar
Does that look right?

I beleive the black/white wire is the ground.
Can somebody tell me what the other wires going down the A pillar are for?

REVISED 25 Feb

Wired the console tonight, and swapped the brown and white/black wires. Also confirmed that the white/black needs to be from the rheostat -12v feed. Posting the switch equiavlent in a new posting below.

Here are my notes regarding the console. I have not yet actually put the console in, but this is how I have it wired.

YMMV, as mine is a compass/fuel gauge combo...and double-check that this is right with your system.



Steve

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

That looks about right Steve. IIRC - the grey wire from kick panel deadends at the 6 pin connector and is not used. I used a ground from the vanity lights or sunroof for one of the 5 wires and ran the other four over and down the A-pillar.

I wired it up per the instructions that others posted here and in other sub-tank threads.

 

[aktundra]

The following is a suggestion from a previous post, on how to hook up the wires coming down the A pillar for the overhead console:

You can ground it to the vanity light/moon roof ground wire and run 4 wires down the A-pillar; 12V+ to the 10A Gauge Fuse, 12V+ to the 15A CIG fuse for back light, one to the dash rheostat switch for the dimmer function & the gauge signal wire. Routing the wire down the A-pillar is not too bad if you are patient & use a semi firm lead wire to pull the softer wires through.


Once you find the fuse box and the respective fuses, how do you attach wires?

How to get at the rheostat switch?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

If I combine the comments in post #48 and post #179, i think this is what I get for wiring in the sub tank Switch. (wire colors will vary by the model year of the donor vehicle).

Empty slots seem to correlate to photos in post # 107

Primarily interested in correctly identifying the purpose of the pin. Does this look right ?

That looks right. See post #184 pic 1, top right. Same Pin out diagram just viewed from back of connector. Cross refefence that with the pic in post #1 on what ElMariachi brought over.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

The following is a suggestion from a previous post, on how to hook up the wires coming down the A pillar for the overhead console:

You can ground it to the vanity light/moon roof ground wire and run 4 wires down the A-pillar; 12V+ to the 10A Gauge Fuse, 12V+ to the 15A CIG fuse for back light, one to the dash rheostat switch for the dimmer function & the gauge signal wire. Routing the wire down the A-pillar is not too bad if you are patient & use a semi firm lead wire to pull the softer wires through.


Once you find the fuse box and the respective fuses, how do you attach wires?


How to get at the rheostat switch?

Run two wires (Green & green/white) down from the dimmer switch. You can tap these along with fuse box wires using secure, quality wire taps or solder and shrink wrap and bring them down to the kick panel.

These two dimmer wires along with the ground allow for the illumination/backlighting. Not sure the amperage of the fuse it is connected to but that is the way Toyota designed it, so that's how I did it.

The only 15amp wire that I know of that should be tapped for the whole install is for the fuel transfer ecu switchable ignition. (see post #184)

That cig fuse supplies power to the lighter. You only need to tap into the ground at the cig lighter not the power. That is why mine didnt work initially. I followed post #48 and put power to pin 6 at the sub switch instead of ground. That was wrong.

Hope that helps. If it is confusing, I'm sorry. Late++tired=

 

[CycloSteve]

If I combine the comments in post #48 and post #179, i think this is what I get for wiring in the sub tank Switch. (wire colors will vary by the model year of the donor vehicle).

Empty slots seem to correlate to photos in post # 107

Primarily interested in correctly identifying the purpose of the pin. Does this look right ?

Pin 4 should be the +12v power feed from IGN, from the ECU-B at the fusebox.

The only other minor difference with my install was that Pin 1 and Pin 6 were both White/Black, and were spliced 8" from the plug from the Factory and fed by the dash rheostat; works fine that way and tested with a Brown line to GND for Pin 6 and that works also.

Installed the new sub sensor and main sensor today which I had ordered from Dave at Japan4x4. All is working perfectly, and went much quicker than expected...did not have to drop the main completely, as I was able to just slightly tip it on the DS and get my arm down in there from the access panel above and r&r the main sensor. Will take some pics of the old ones and offer for sale in classifieds shortly. They just needed to be cleaned, but I did not want to chance having to pull them out ever again if possible.



Steve

 

[elmariachi]

Confirming tank changeover switch wiring here. Reminding you guys that there are 5,297 different variant of this stupid switch out in the wild. The diagram below does NOT include the two switch illumination/ground wires (pins 1 and 2) that come from the dash lights. Also notice the P-L wire, which is corrected from P-B to match how my post-97 truck was wired. So yellow from fusebox, w/b ground and the two pinks back to the FT ECU.

Also, pin #9 attaches to pin# 8 on some switches. Far bottom diagram is how to test the switch.

You guys are making me proud.