OEM Subtank Retrofit/Install Project With Pics

[Jan-78FJ40]

Thank you Steve!
I am in San Diego-it would be great if someone could help around here.

I'll put out all the things I have and try to wrap my head around it on the weekend.
cheers,
thanks again,
jan

 

[CycloSteve]

PM S.CarolinaFZJ80, as he is in SD and been through this exercise in the last year and may be able to help. I am in NorCal so a bit far north for direct help, but happy to help online or bounce ideas off.



Steve

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Jan - I can try and help you out with your setup. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with diesel 80's but the transfer circuity shouldn't be that hard to figure out. We can just do it like George did. Glad you are not trying to duplicate the factory diesel transfer system as that would be very labor intensive.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Jan - I can try and help you out with your setup. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with diesel 80's but the transfer circuity shouldn't be that hard to figure out. We can just do it like George did. Glad you are not trying to duplicate the factory diesel transfer system as that would be very labor intensive.

Great, thank you!
I'll be in touch.

Jan

 

[TrickyT]

...
-a sub-switch (not sure which one, seems to have 6 connectors)
-one of Gerorge's ECUs
...
thanks,
cheers,
jan

Not sure, but isn't the Aux Tank switch with 6 pins the push on/push off variety (p/n 84580-60030)? George's ECU is designed to work with the momentary contact 7-pin version (p/n 84560-60020), so you may have problems. You can probably remove the latching mechanism from the 60030 switch, but there may be other minor issues too, such as if you can separately power the green "transfer in progress" light inside the switch.

 

[chrisc16]

Subtank Sender

Yesterday I began the process of installing all my acquired subtank parts into my 80. I fitted the tank in place and marked the strap locations. Everything fit great.

However, I then checked the sender, specifically the fuel empty switch. As I understand, there should be continuity between the ground wire and the fuel empty wire when that switch is down (tank empty). Mine has very limited or no continuity. I took the switch apart but it doesn't appear to be serviceable.

Does anyone know if the subtank sender is available in the U.S.? Or do I need to order one from Japan4x4?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

Not sure, but isn't the Aux Tank switch with 6 pins the push on/push off variety (p/n 84580-60030)? George's ECU is designed to work with the momentary contact 7-pin version (p/n 84560-60020), so you may have problems. You can probably remove the latching mechanism from the 60030 switch, but there may be other minor issues too, such as if you can separately power the green "transfer in progress" light inside the switch.

He's got the non latching sub tank switch which is designed to work on George's ecu.

 

[CycloSteve]

Yesterday I began the process of installing all my acquired subtank parts into my 80. I fitted the tank in place and marked the strap locations. Everything fit great.

However, I then checked the sender, specifically the fuel empty switch. As I understand, there should be continuity between the ground wire and the fuel empty wire when that switch is down (tank empty). Mine has very limited or no continuity. I took the switch apart but it doesn't appear to be serviceable.

Does anyone know if the subtank sender is available in the U.S.? Or do I need to order one from Japan4x4?

Thanks,
Chris

Contact Dave at Japan4x4. He delivered mine in about a week.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/213266-oem-subtank-retrofit-install-project-pics-12.html#post6361442



Steve

 

[CycloSteve]

Dibs on the Gauges...been looking for the Altimeter/Tank level version for 18 months! PM Sent. I had the Compass/Tank Level version, and sold that earlier this year to UncleGrumpy.



Steve

 

[aktundra]

Well, I am back at this project. Had to set it aside for the summer, but made some progress this weekend. Practiced and experimented with a nut/washer stack untill I could install them consistently.

Everything went great. Sub tank and dual filler installed, but have a question about the small evap(?) hoses coming off the dual filler. The hoses that came with my system are stiff and not very flexable. The local O'Rielly's doesn't have a fuel rated hose that is the right ID. Closest I could find is 5/8 heater hose. Can heater hose be used ? Hoping there is an option besides order new OEM from overseas.

 

[CycloSteve]

Everything went great. Sub tank and dual filler installed, but have a question about the small evap(?) hoses coming off the dual filler. The hoses that came with my system are stiff and not very flexable. The local O'Rielly's doesn't have a fuel rated hose that is the right ID. Closest I could find is 5/8 heater hose. Can heater hose be used ? Hoping there is an option besides order new OEM from overseas.

I used 5/8 emissions hose IIRC for parts of my system, and a few new bits from CDan. Try a NAPA shop, they should have it in bulk, and will cut to length. Heater hose is not rated for fuel/fumes.



Steve

 

[aktundra]

Now that I think of it, I will probably need the same hose to run up from the sub tank to the main tank.

Needed to get the 80 back "on-line" for monday. Looks like I need to do a little more checking around, and round up a few feet.

 

[elmariachi]

Man, you guys get the award for "persistence."

Jim

 

[aktundra]

Hey OEM Sub Tank Wonks !!

Below are two descriptions of the overhead console wiring I copied from previous posts on this thread. George's wire colors are the actual wires coming from the console, and Steve's is the OEM wiring harness running down the A pillar.

I have opened the gauge cluster, and the Wires I have *'ed are the wires that control the actual fuel gauge (the other wires are for the bulbs controlled by the dash lights).

I can get a ground, I can get 12v switched, is the sub tank signal picked up from ID1 pin 21?

 

[Dave 2000]

Congradulations!! I hate it when something does not wonk!

regards

Dave

 

[CycloSteve]

AK

Try the following pinouts...

1 = Grey harness goes to Red on console (was not 100% sure on this one)
2 = Yellow harness goes to Red/Black on console
3 = Green harness goes to Green on console
4 = White/Black harness goes to Grey on console
5 = Brown harness goes to Black on console
6 = Yellow/Blue harness goes to Red/Yellow on console

#6 should be the wire which comes from ID1 pin 21, and also then should be able to be traced back to the grey plug at the subtank, pin 1.

This was the wiring which finally worked for my console before I sold it...so unfortunately cannot confirm the console side of this equation. I can check again tonight in my handwritten notes, but this comes from my spreadsheet which should be up-to-date.



Steve

Hey OEM Sub Tank Wonks !!

Below are two descriptions of the overhead console wiring I copied from previous posts on this thread. George's wire colors are the actual wires coming from the console, and Steve's is the OEM wiring harness running down the A pillar.

I have opened the gauge cluster, and the Wires I have *'ed are the wires that control the actual fuel gauge (the other wires are for the bulbs controlled by the dash lights).

I can get a ground, I can get 12v switched, is the sub tank signal picked up from ID1 pin 21?

 

[Peluo]

Hey Mud friends . i just wanted to pass the info that both Campinglab and Man-a-fre have aux tanks for sale and i think both come with dual filler necks. Watch out for sticker shock prices just wanted to share the info since they are rare.

 

[CycloSteve]

Proper Visors Still Available from Japan

Well, I think I finally am done with my Subtank install.

The only item left was the OH console...I have been looking for the Altimeter/Fuel Gauge combo meter, but essentially gave up. Instead I used the console itself to house my new HAM radio. Thus I needed to either cut up my almost-new visors to fit or to find a set of visors (as I had sold my console set earlier this year, doh).

So, after searching ToyoDIY, I finally narrowed down the field, and asked Dave at Japan4x4 which were still available, and for how much. Interestingly enough there were ones which cost only $55 a piece, as compared to the $200+ for others. My thoughts were that the less expensive ones likely did not have the lighted mirrors. So, I figured at that price, WTH pull the trigger and get-em, as I have never opened the mirrors...and only had a feigning opposition from the .

Ten days later I have in my possession a pair of pristine new visors, specifically built for the Non-US-Spec rigs with the Subtank, and at a really great price even when considering shipping. Thanks Dave!

The DS has no mirror, the PS has a mirror. Neither has the US Nanny-State nonsense about airbags, safety, etc. Proper color, material and 100% perfect fitment.

A few pictures say more than 1000 words, or in this case my 1000th post on Mud!



Steve

 

[elmariachi]

I just fixed the broken pic links in post #1. If you guys find any others missing let me know.

Steve, CONGRATS on completion....and nailing down the right visors. I gave up after ordering 4 from Dave that didn't match or fit. Anyone want 4 worthiess bastaad visors?

 

[TeeDiggs]

Well, I think I finally am done with my Subtank install.

The only item left was the OH console...I have been looking for the Altimeter/Fuel Gauge combo meter, but essentially gave up. Instead I used the console itself to house my new HAM radio. Thus I needed to either cut up my almost-new visors to fit or to find a set of visors (as I had sold my console set earlier this year, doh).

So, after searching ToyoDIY, I finally narrowed down the field, and asked Dave at Japan4x4 which were still available, and for how much. Interestingly enough there were ones which cost only $55 a piece, as compared to the $200+ for others. My thoughts were that the less expensive ones likely did not have the lighted mirrors. So, I figured at that price, WTH pull the trigger and get-em, as I have never opened the mirrors...and only had a feigning opposition from the .

Ten days later I have in my possession a pair of pristine new visors, specifically built for the Non-US-Spec rigs with the Subtank, and at a really great price even when considering shipping. Thanks Dave!

The DS has no mirror, the PS has a mirror. Neither has the US Nanny-State nonsense about airbags, safety, etc. Proper color, material and 100% perfect fitment.

A few pictures say more than 1000 words, or in this case my 1000th post on Mud!



Steve

Very nice! Great job, and congrats on 1k

I would love a subtank someday with the OH subtank assb, however until then, my current visors are near shot (falling down while driving). I am colorblind, but do know I have a tan interior, are those tan? They appear possibly gray, I would assume they sell each? The price sounds doable, for working new visors IMO.