Actually I have skipped using the OH console for now...may add at a later date if I find one with the Altimeter (mine is with the compass).
Steve
OEM Subtank Retrofit/Install Project With Pics (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter elmariachi
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Actually I have skipped using the OH console for now...may add at a later date if I find one with the Altimeter (mine is with the compass).
Steve
Its really easy. Just some small trimming around the mirror mount to make room for the center of the assembly.
Actually I have skipped using the OH console for now...may add at a later date if I find one with the Altimeter (mine is with the compass).
Steve
Steve, you should hook it up cause it looks
. Don't worry about the compass and swap out the lense assembly when you find one with an altimeter.
You can ground it to the vanity light/moon roof ground wire and run 4 wires down the A-pillar; 12V+ to the 10A Gauge Fuse, 12V+ to the 15A CIG fuse for back light, one to the dash rheostat switch for the dimmer function & the gauge signal wire. Routing the wire down the A-pillar is not too bad if you are patient & use a semi firm lead wire to pull the softer wires through.
As promised here are the diagrams for a 1996. Thanks to Elmariachi & 70sguy for the info and scans.
These simplified diagrams should help any who want to do this in the future.
Keep in mind that these are specific to my 1996 and yours may differ as per previous posts.
EDIT - RE: 1st colored diagram
The connectors & exact pin outs marked BL3 have NOT been verified as I pulled those from their harnesses over a year ago (sorry but I couldn't remember exactly where they came from). However, they were really easy to oHm out using a multi-meter.
All other connections have been verified as to the plug identifier, pin out & wire color.
Whom ever does this project next, can you please post exactly which plug (ID1, ID2, ID3 or ID4) that those 6 wires came from? That way we can complete the diagram and add to this threads usefulness to others.
These simplified diagrams should help any who want to do this in the future.
Keep in mind that these are specific to my 1996 and yours may differ as per previous posts.
EDIT - RE: 1st colored diagram
The connectors & exact pin outs marked BL3 have NOT been verified as I pulled those from their harnesses over a year ago (sorry but I couldn't remember exactly where they came from). However, they were really easy to oHm out using a multi-meter.
All other connections have been verified as to the plug identifier, pin out & wire color.
Whom ever does this project next, can you please post exactly which plug (ID1, ID2, ID3 or ID4) that those 6 wires came from? That way we can complete the diagram and add to this threads usefulness to others.
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This may help too!
Sam, excellent diagrams...definitely will help others going down this path. Buttoned up my rig tonight after finishing the QuietCrap installation...which I did due to having the carpets and seats out. I would advise others to do this also, if they have the $ and time.
Will likely install the OH console at some point, but still have to run the wires down the A-Pillar, and cut-down my visors...though I do have a set which came with my setup, they do not have the vanity light...which made them a no-go for the
who actually is also pleased with the ST being done.
Steve
Will likely install the OH console at some point, but still have to run the wires down the A-Pillar, and cut-down my visors...though I do have a set which came with my setup, they do not have the vanity light...which made them a no-go for the
who actually is also pleased with the ST being done.Steve
Awesome. That is on my to-do list.
As for the visors. Mine are cut down, just not finished yet as I am looking for some late model Tacoma pull out visor extenders to put in there before taking them to the upholstery shop.
The visors and the fuel door stickers are my last two steps to this 16 month project.
You wouldn't have happened to scan the fuel door sticker before you put it on?
If so, I can just get a sticker made.
As for the visors. Mine are cut down, just not finished yet as I am looking for some late model Tacoma pull out visor extenders to put in there before taking them to the upholstery shop.
The visors and the fuel door stickers are my last two steps to this 16 month project.
You wouldn't have happened to scan the fuel door sticker before you put it on?
If so, I can just get a sticker made.
That 1st one is a tough one but the two plugs in the bottom right corner appear to be very similar to the main fuel tank hookups. i.e. fuel sender/pump & 75% float switch. That little metal bracket attached to it looks similar the one that came attached to my Australian wire harness. (see post #4's 1st pic).
As for the second one (overhead wiring harness) it looks as though the 4 pin plug for the kick panel connection is there (circled on the right) along with dash switch plug but don't take my word just yet as the pics are kind of hard to see accurately. The ones circled on the left may be for you overhead door lights 2nd & 3rd rows.
I'd just wait and see what all arrives. You may have the harness's that have been posted up here & most likely alot of extra stuff after you extract exactly what you need out of these loooms.
As for the second one (overhead wiring harness) it looks as though the 4 pin plug for the kick panel connection is there (circled on the right) along with dash switch plug but don't take my word just yet as the pics are kind of hard to see accurately. The ones circled on the left may be for you overhead door lights 2nd & 3rd rows.
I'd just wait and see what all arrives. You may have the harness's that have been posted up here & most likely alot of extra stuff after you extract exactly what you need out of these loooms.
I purchased Sticker #1 below from MOT for just a few $. It is PN 74572-60010. Dave from Japan 4x4 should also be able to aquire pretty easily.
Sticker #2 goes somewhere, but I am not sure as I did not pull it off of the truck. Maybe in the glovebox?
On an unrelated note to stickers, do you know if the rear level sensor (in the subtank) is "grounded" when the tank has fuel, or "grounded" when it runs out of fuel. My system does not turn off when the tank is empty, so figure that it is stuck in the keep-pumping setting...will need to sort that out.
Steve
Sticker #2 goes somewhere, but I am not sure as I did not pull it off of the truck. Maybe in the glovebox?
On an unrelated note to stickers, do you know if the rear level sensor (in the subtank) is "grounded" when the tank has fuel, or "grounded" when it runs out of fuel. My system does not turn off when the tank is empty, so figure that it is stuck in the keep-pumping setting...will need to sort that out.
Steve
I'm not sure where it goes, but the part number for that one (gasoline) appears to be 74538-60020 if you wanted a new one (from ToyoDIY). I would guess it went somewhere on the dash near the switch or on the overhead gauge panel maybe?
Sticker #2 goes somewhere, but I am not sure as I did not pull it off of the truck. Maybe in the glovebox?
Here is the diagnostic page. I am not sure if mine shuts off when empty either. I just finished transfering a bit more into the main and it automatically shuts off when the main tank is 75% full.
The main gauge shows a bit less than 75% when shut off occurs (see pic) and it takes several minutes for the main gauge to show 3/4 full.
I will have to drive it a bit more to check the "sub empty shutoff function"
So, in summary the Main Tank Fuel Level Switch is looking for the following to "pump":
If the Main has NO connectivity, or the Sub has connectivity, then the ECU should shut-down the transfer.
I would recomend that others test these PRIOR to installing their tanks. Not a biggie when out, but requires pulling the carpet/access panels if have already reassembled. Will try to do from the loom/connectors first, though.
Out of the US for two weeks, thus will debug when back home. It could be that mine are just a bit sticky, as I only tossed 2 gallons of fuel in the Sub, and 1 gallon in the Main (that which I had previously drained). Worth doing a test of filling the main with only 5 or so gallons, and Subtank completely, then try and transfer the Sub and see if/when it turns off.
BTW, how long did it take your sub to transfer its' contents?
Steve
- 1 & 3 have connectivity
- 2 & 3 have connectivity
- 2 & 3 have NO connectivity
If the Main has NO connectivity, or the Sub has connectivity, then the ECU should shut-down the transfer.
I would recomend that others test these PRIOR to installing their tanks. Not a biggie when out, but requires pulling the carpet/access panels if have already reassembled. Will try to do from the loom/connectors first, though.
Out of the US for two weeks, thus will debug when back home. It could be that mine are just a bit sticky, as I only tossed 2 gallons of fuel in the Sub, and 1 gallon in the Main (that which I had previously drained). Worth doing a test of filling the main with only 5 or so gallons, and Subtank completely, then try and transfer the Sub and see if/when it turns off.
BTW, how long did it take your sub to transfer its' contents?
Steve
chapel gate
GOLD Star
i would love to do this, but i know the parts will be impossible to source from out of England.
anyone have any idea how much these parts would cost as a complete kit for a diesel from a japanese or aus main dealer?
im sitting down....
anyone have any idea how much these parts would cost as a complete kit for a diesel from a japanese or aus main dealer?
im sitting down....
Well, it may not be as bad as you think to source the parts closer than JP or OZ. Most middle-eastern trucks also came equipped with the subtank option, and that is much closer to England than OZ is to the US. If you want to go the 100% new route, just contact Dave at Japan4x4 on the site. He should be able to give you a quote for the full setup.
My tank setup came out of a Cruiser that somehow made it to the US all the way from Egypt. You may want to start by looking at ebay.com.au for used parts from OZ (expensive/long time to ship), or see what you may be able to source from the m-e directly.
Most of the part numbers for the whole kit are in this thread, so you may even be able to check and see if any are available at the dealer in the UK...can't hurt to try and see if they can find any of the bits.
Cost, well that won't be cheap, but sometimes you find a good deal.
M8Steve
chapel gate
GOLD Star
have been keeping an eye on oz ebay over the last couple of months with little luck.
uk toyota cant help, although may be worth throwing some part numbers at them.
ill get in touch with dave.
cheers steve.
uk toyota cant help, although may be worth throwing some part numbers at them.
ill get in touch with dave.
cheers steve.
So, in summary the Main Tank Fuel Level Switch is looking for the following to "pump":
And the Subtank should have the following to "pump" (since our rigs did not come with SatNav):
- 1 & 3 have connectivity
- 2 & 3 have connectivity
If the Main has NO connectivity, or the Sub has connectivity, then the ECU should shut-down the transfer.
- 2 & 3 have NO connectivity
I would recomend that others test these PRIOR to installing their tanks. Not a biggie when out, but requires pulling the carpet/access panels if have already reassembled. Will try to do from the loom/connectors first, though.
Out of the US for two weeks, thus will debug when back home. It could be that mine are just a bit sticky, as I only tossed 2 gallons of fuel in the Sub, and 1 gallon in the Main (that which I had previously drained). Worth doing a test of filling the main with only 5 or so gallons, and Subtank completely, then try and transfer the Sub and see if/when it turns off.
BTW, how long did it take your sub to transfer its' contents?
Steve
My transfer pump does shut off when the sub tank is empty and when the maintank is 3/4 full.
My subtank was full after install and at the time of the continuity check. There was NO CONTINUITY between pin 2 & 3 when full (float up) & I had CONTINUITY between pin 1 & 3
According to the FSM, there should be CONTINUITY between pin 2 & 3 when the tank is empty (float down). This is what completes the circuit and tells the transfer ECU to shut off when the sub tank is empty.
It takes awhile to transfer maybe 10-15 minutes if I recall. It's not bad though you just do it while driving.
I will post up the exact time after I transfer again. It may be awhile though as I just topped off both tanks.
Hope that helps!
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And it begins . . . .
After following this thread for literally years, my shipment of sub tank parts arrived this week !
Still need an ECU and dash switch, but eager to get started.
This week I will be under the rig, and running a tap through some threads on the frame to install some sliders. If possible, I would like to clean out all the exsisting original threads necessary for and OEM installation. Laying on my back, in less than ideal circumstances, 15 years of crud in the holes, it will be very easy to eyeball the proper tap, then proceed to cross thread the holes !
Has anybody been anal enough to record the size and pitch of all the preexisting original holes necessary for this mod?
After following this thread for literally years, my shipment of sub tank parts arrived this week !
Still need an ECU and dash switch, but eager to get started.
This week I will be under the rig, and running a tap through some threads on the frame to install some sliders. If possible, I would like to clean out all the exsisting original threads necessary for and OEM installation. Laying on my back, in less than ideal circumstances, 15 years of crud in the holes, it will be very easy to eyeball the proper tap, then proceed to cross thread the holes !
Has anybody been anal enough to record the size and pitch of all the preexisting original holes necessary for this mod?
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After messing around with my eBay seller in Oz for the last 3 months, I got tired of waiting and called Man-A-Fre to see if they still had any 80-series subtanks in stock. They do! I just picked mine up for $200 out the door - it's in excellent condition, super clean inside and out. No pickup unit or straps, but I can get those from japan4x4. Can't wait to get started on the install!
And I also echo aktundra, if anyone has recorded the size of all the threads used that would be very helpful.
-Chris
And I also echo aktundra, if anyone has recorded the size of all the threads used that would be very helpful.
-Chris
