At what age/miles do the OEM shocks start to get weak?
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Mine are going on 20 years and 107k and they are original and they still ride relatively well, no floating after hitting a bump and no major nosedive or taildive upon braking and acceleration... Obviously, they could be better but for what is on there now I'm damned impressed. My friend who has a new 2017 4Runner said it rode better than his truck with less than 1,200 miles.
Side note from experience: If you decide to stray from OEM be sure not to toss the OEM washers that sandwich the upper bushings. Some aftermarket shocks have smaller diameter upper shafts and washers. If (when) you decide to go back to OEM those washers will not fit on the OEM shock shafts, and they're kinda expensive to replace.
For reference, you'll need six of P/N
9094802173 (plain) and two of P/N
9094802170 (with flange that registers into frame mount).
For reference, you'll need six of P/N
9094802173 (plain) and two of P/N
9094802170 (with flange that registers into frame mount).
Thanks for the insight. Do you know if new OEM shocks come at least with the rubber bushings? Various parts diagrams don't help and I've read conflicting information regarding this.
Yup, mine did for my '98 LC. Sealed up in a plastic bag were the shock, two rubber bushings, top nut, but wait... no washers. The lower rubber bushing and metal bolt tube were pre-installed.
I have a 1.5" OME lift kit with diff drop and SPC UCAs It came with OME Nitro Sport shocks and I hated them. I put new OEM shocks all around what a difference! I'm sure I've lost some wheel travel and they are more likely to break off road than the OME shocks but it was a good move. I'm planning to install Icon Stage 1s this spring.
bringing this back from the dead but you and your buddy w the 35's both run the fcp's correct?
I’ve have bilsteins on one and oem on the other and I can’t tell much difference. I just got the bilsteins a few months back and have paid attention but there is just not a seat of the pants variance. The bilsteins are about $450 delivered.
I replaced OEM>Bilsteins at 80k on my 1998 - much better handling. Rough ride with LT tires.
Replaced OEM>Eibach at 220k on my 2004 - need more miles, but significantly less brake dive.
I don’t know how new OEM’s feel - but they are valved softer than the digressive Bilsteins. Eibach’s are softer than Bilsteins on small hits, then firm up. A little cheaper than Bilsteins (from tirerack).
Really depends how/where one drives. For interstate / city driving I would guess the OEM’s are the best value. For handling, mountain roads, ‘assertive’ driving, Bilsteins will be noticeably better. Eibach’s - I like them so far, softer on rough road, but handles well (only 30 miles on them so far).
For off-road - look at Ironman FCP’s or Dobinson’s.
Best value - OEM’s about $42 each. Best deal if you want ‘luxury SUV’ ride.
I know this thread was bumped but I guess I'll just ask here.
My oem shocks are 21 years old and have over 170k miles. It still rides well over larger bumps like speed humps, but when it goes through pot holes, it feels crashy (shakes everything inside).
Do you guys think replacing the shocks will fix that or do you think it's something else?
My oem shocks are 21 years old and have over 170k miles. It still rides well over larger bumps like speed humps, but when it goes through pot holes, it feels crashy (shakes everything inside).
Do you guys think replacing the shocks will fix that or do you think it's something else?
So far I haven't had any problems with my Bilstein 5100. But looking to upgrade in the near future.
OEMs were fine with my 255/85/16 KMEs
VtaTom
SILVER Star
I know this started as a shocks comparison, but a lot of the problems seem to be the OEM springs getting soft on top of shocks wearing out. The springs carry the load and shocks manage the tires and variable load in motion I thought.
I am sitting on an original suspension at about 125k. The shocks are still ok but ready to think about replacing according to my mechanic. The springs are shot. The rear sags when loaded so I installed Timbren bump stops (love them when loaded heavy) so I could tow a pop up without sagging and bottoming out on dips. But when I have any people and a full tank of gas, I'm resting on the Timbrens so I get a truck ride. There should be a gap of a few inches between axel and bump stops with a normal load, but I'm at 1/4" or touching.
I'm not worried about a lift, but I'd like to have it ride not like a truck when empty, or too soft when loaded heavy for a trip that might include bad roads or washboards. It seems like the issue is the variable weight in back, so maybe I need something adjustable on shocks? I'm debating on OME medium springs with OEM shocks . I can't find OME BP-51s for 100 series or I'd do that. Other wise one of the "Stage" setups so I can dial in for heavy or empty? Maybe OME shocks and Tough Dog?
I'm ok with truck ride, but my passengers have trouble with ride quality and if I can smooth it out that would help.
I am sitting on an original suspension at about 125k. The shocks are still ok but ready to think about replacing according to my mechanic. The springs are shot. The rear sags when loaded so I installed Timbren bump stops (love them when loaded heavy) so I could tow a pop up without sagging and bottoming out on dips. But when I have any people and a full tank of gas, I'm resting on the Timbrens so I get a truck ride. There should be a gap of a few inches between axel and bump stops with a normal load, but I'm at 1/4" or touching.
I'm not worried about a lift, but I'd like to have it ride not like a truck when empty, or too soft when loaded heavy for a trip that might include bad roads or washboards. It seems like the issue is the variable weight in back, so maybe I need something adjustable on shocks? I'm debating on OME medium springs with OEM shocks . I can't find OME BP-51s for 100 series or I'd do that. Other wise one of the "Stage" setups so I can dial in for heavy or empty? Maybe OME shocks and Tough Dog?
I'm ok with truck ride, but my passengers have trouble with ride quality and if I can smooth it out that would help.
I know this is old, but I went through this thread a few years ago when I was shopping around for shocks (doing it again for other reasons). Thought I chimed in if anyone is interested. I went with Bilsteins 4600 in the front and cranked the torsion bars almost to the max. OME 2865 springs and new oem shocks in the rear. Took 2nd row seats out and left 3rd row in folded position with a platform bed/storage. Platform is split in half and stack/slides onto each other when rear seats are folded down. Rear sits about an inch higher, stock bumpers. I took a chance on this setup for these reasons: handling and comfort for possible rear passengers. Places I go to often doesn't have bad trails, but getting there takes you through some serious winding roads (this seems to be the case no matter where I go). I wanted some comfort for daily driving and possible rear passengers for not so long trips. I wasn't sure if this setup was gonna work for what I wanted, but I've been running with it for several years now and the result was better than I expected. Can merge/exit freeways with confidence, rear passengers doesn't experience any harshness. I ran stock 18" Tundra off road wheels with the Michelin LTX a/t. My Tundra handles better, but the ride is much smoother.
I had the Slee Med 1.5" lift kit on my LX470 (AHC replaced because it was broken and way too much money to fix). I started out with the OME Nitro Sport shocks, they were really harsh, comparable to my 56 Dodge Power Wagon with 13 leafs on each corner. I went with OEM and they were great, but I added a full set of BIOR skid plates, BIOR sliders and a BIOR rear bumper (over 700 lbs of additional weight). With that they were a bit soft. If I didn't have the additional weight I would still be running OEMs, the ride was great and I would just have to be a bit careful on hard turns and go a little slower off road. I went with the Dobinsons and am very happy with them. Once again, if I didn't have the additional weight I would've stayed with the OEMs.
I just picked up an 03 LX and figure the shocks will need to be replaced soon. Mine still has the AHC, are the shocks that go with that system any different/expensive than what rides on a LC? Thanks for helping with what will be the first of many Newbie questions.
