OEM Front Spacer Installed, Alignment Tech Said He Couldn’t get the Tie Rod End Bolts Off

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I installed the Toyota front leveling kit. Naturally an alignment is required. Truck has 200k.

Took it to the local tire shop where they successfully installed new tires and then attempted the alignment.

They said they couldn’t get the tie rod end bolts off because they were frozen and therefor couldn’t complete the alignment.

Now I personally installed the leveling spacers and had absolutely no problem getting any of the bolts off. Bottom strut bolt, top strut nuts, sway bar bolts, sway bar end link bolts, lower and upper control arm main bolts. All no issues. Upon further inspection of the tie rods this morning, there is no rust or any obvious reason why they wouldn’t come off.

I’m taking it to another location this afternoon to see what happens, but in the event of another failure, I’ll get in there myself and try breaking the bolts loose.

Is there anything specific about the LC that the technician should know about when performing an alignment?

Pic of new tires. Bridgestone Dueler Revo 3 285/65-18.

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I installed the Toyota front leveling kit. Naturally an alignment is required. Truck has 200k.

Took it to the local tire shop where they successfully installed new tires and then attempted the alignment.

They said they couldn’t get the tie rod end bolts off because they were frozen and therefor couldn’t complete the alignment.

Now I personally installed the leveling spacers and had absolutely no problem getting any of the bolts off. Bottom strut bolt, top strut nuts, sway bar bolts, sway bar end link bolts, lower and upper control arm main bolts. All no issues. Upon further inspection of the tie rods this morning, there is no rust or any obvious reason why they wouldn’t come off.

I’m taking it to another location this afternoon to see what happens, but in the event of another failure, I’ll get in there myself and try breaking the bolts loose.

Is there anything specific about the LC that the technician should know about when performing an alignment?

Pic of new tires. Bridgestone Dueler Revo 3 285/65-18.

View attachment 2972376
Maybe he was trying to back off the locking nuts that hold the adjuster the wrong way. Just sounds like he didn't know what he was doing.

I'd suggest you try and loosen them up and make sure it's good, then tighten them back up before taking it to a shop again.
 
Maybe he was trying to back off the locking nuts that hold the adjuster the wrong way. Just sounds like he didn't know what he was doing.

I'd suggest you try and loosen them up and make sure it's good, then tighten them back up before taking it to a shop again.
Copy that thanks!
Maybe he was trying to back off the locking nuts that hold the adjuster the wrong way. Just sounds like he didn't know what he was doing.

I'd suggest you try and loosen them up and make sure it's good, then tighten them back up before taking it to a shop again.
So I got up underneath the truck today and the nuts really are pretty stuck. I think I may just go ahead and replace inner and outer tie rods since I have 200k.

Does anyone know who the manufacturer is for Toyota’s tie rods? How’s the quality of Delphi?

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Copy that thanks!

So I got up underneath the truck today and the nuts really are pretty stuck. I think I may just go ahead and replace inner and outer tie rods since I have 200k.

Does anyone know who the manufacturer is for Toyota’s tie rods? How’s the quality of Delphi?

View attachment 2973539
Go OEM. Anything else is JUNK.
 
555 makes Japanese OEM quality parts. I am using their LBJs and Tie Rod ends from Cruiser Outfitters.

 
Heat is your friend. Mine were pretty damn stuck but a combination of heat and PB blaster while cooling to pull it into the threads got them moving. No visible rust but when the nuts did start moving there was some hidden in the threads.

My truck is on original tie rods with 175k miles and zero play.. if I have things unbolted both tie rod ends have smooth resistance to manipulation, indicating still having preload in the joint.

One other point is that some alignment machines have incorrect specs for your vehicle. Caster should be around 3 degrees, not the 1.7 those incorrect machines quote. Have them check the caster numbers before proceeding, and if needed find the numbers from a factory service manual.
 
Heat is your friend. Mine were pretty damn stuck but a combination of heat and PB blaster while cooling to pull it into the threads got them moving. No visible rust but when the nuts did start moving there was some hidden in the threads.

My truck is on original tie rods with 175k miles and zero play.. if I have things unbolted both tie rod ends have smooth resistance to manipulation, indicating still having preload in the joint.

One other point is that some alignment machines have incorrect specs for your vehicle. Caster should be around 3 degrees, not the 1.7 those incorrect machines quote. Have them check the caster numbers before proceeding, and if needed find the numbers from a factory service manual.
Awesome advice. I do have the factory service manual so I will look up the specs to have on hand when I go back in!
 
Second the heat.
If someone had put loctite on it, heat should help loosen that up as well…
 
Buy yourself a heat induction gun and be done with this in 3 minutes flat.
 

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