gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Mine is still showing the $86.99 each.
OEM CV - disappointment (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter gatormark91
- Start date
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You may want to order them now at that price. I am seeing this:
Part #: NMD 944081
Line: NAPA MaxDrive
Fits your 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser
Online Price (USD):
$203.84 Each
20% off Flash Sale
86.99X0.20(20%off)=$17.39 discount
I am so confused by this back and forth now. Some claim OEM is the way to go, just buttress the boot clamps others say the Cardone HD (NAPA MaxDrive) are the reliable alternative at a fourth of the cost. I am sitting on a pair of new half shafts from Toyota but the option to save almost $600 by going aftermarket is a very lucrative one to me
Buy them at Roackauto [1998 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.7L V8 CV Axle | RockAuto] for $81 a piece. Exact same product!
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
There's no simple yes or no answer here. The cheap ones are cheap for a reason. The OEM ones the overall best product, but are not absolute perfection every time.
The only potential weak point of the OEM is the clamps. It is relatively cheap and easy to address that after they're installed. 10 minute fix in your driveway.
The potential weak point of the aftermarket ones is poor fitment of the splines or perhaps failure of the CV joint itself. The fix for that is a new CV entirely.
If you dont mind the labor at all, go cheap. If you'd be bothered by uninstalling and reinstalling a failed CV in a year or 5, or if you just want the highest quality item on your rig go OEM.
If you can afford it, OEM is the winner here. If they were all priced evenly, everyone would buy OEM.
About 1k for a new set of CV Axles and associated parts, I'm wondering if I should bite the bullet.
Looking over the lexus drivers history of my 2001 LX 1 owner he got new CV Axles in 2007 as an extra care repair (warranty). Then in 2012 he got the CV boots replaced which must of been leaking. Fast forward to 2020 one CV Boot has developed a leak, should I replace 13 year old CV Axles with OEM or Clamp them and move on I wonder how many years I'd get out of them if leave as-is.
In about 16 months of ownership its the first issue that I experienced minus the famous clunk which could likely be fixed if replace CV axles and hub flange.
regrease and clamp. if it isnt ticking, its fine you caught it in time.
Also, if you feel that the clunk is from the teeth connection of the flange and CV, you might inspect the CV teeth and just replace the flange. The flanges are $31 on partsouq. As I understand it, the flange is made of a softer material than the CV so it should deform more quickly. Replacing the flange would fix any wear that occurred with that particular part. You could also reindex the c clip holding the CV in place. There are 6 sizes and you really want that clip to be tight.
Get a camera under there and shift from R to D to R. If the axle rotates and the hub doesn't, you need new axles and hub flange.
If all looks good, reclamp without uninstalling axles and keep an eye on them.
bwell
SILVER Star
My original driver's side axle outer joint went out last summer. I have been running the napa max drive on my drivers side for almost 7 months maybe 5k miles, no issues, at all. My passenger one is also on it's way out, bought one on sale the other day for $65ish with tax and shipping to the front door.
1 year old OEM CV started leaking at the small end of the inner boot. Going to go pick up some clamps and a crimp tool at NAPA today to see if I can get it fixed. I think I caught it early since there's hardly any grease flung around. I was checking air in the tires today and notices some grease spots in the fenders.
For my 01 LX finally got around to cleaning up the grease that came out who knows when didn't seem like too much. Used wd40 degreaser and installed the the "Precision" (47245) from McMaster that @hoser recommended. Link below. Hopefully get a few more years from these OEM cv axles that owner had Lexus install brand new in 07.
www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Tagging @TRAIL TAILOR here as well for insight.
Would you guys suggest replacing the all OEM clamps with any of the suggested worm gear clamps, on new OE axles before installing them in order to prevent any leakage from beginning?
Would it be possible to do so without losing any grease?
+1 The outer wheel hub flanges remind me of shear pins on an boat prop. When you hit a stump our in the ruff, you'll be glad you sheared a pin instead of destroying the prop or the lower unit. Hub flanges can be changed in the field. I would rather change a hub flange instead of damaging part of the drive train.
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
For the record, I used Detroit Axle for my CVs and have had ZERO issues in the three years they've been on there. YMMV.
I keep worrying about this and check my new (soon to be installed) axles clamps. I bought these from Toyota of Puyallup in WA. I don't see how I could get the inner clamp any tighter without having it bite into and damage the boot. One thing that I might do is to wrap the inner clamps with military spec F4 silicone tape. It draws up tight to create a waterproof, oil, and heat resistant seal. I did this a few years ago on another car that had a history of grease escaping around the inner clamp. It worked in that application.
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No offense intended but why try to fix a problem where there is none? I wouldn't touch the clamp unless it starts to seep any grease. If it seeps sometime in the future ( usually the next month after the warranty runs out
) You can retighten with the correct tool. There is a clamping spec found in the SA section of the FSM- you can achieve that gap by using this tool: OTC 4722 and measure with a feeler gauge so that you don't over tighten it.
