OEM CV - disappointment

[gregnash]

Clamps on my new OEM CV's are tight. Might have been a bad batch other folks received. I've had both aftermarket and OEM CV's and the OEM joints are on a whole different level quality wise.

If you're snapping OEM CV's off-road it must be on 35's. If you're on 33's and breaking these CV's I'd recommend signing up for an off road driving and recovery course because there is no reason you should break these CV's.

This seems logical to me. It's like the guys that I talk to that continually destroy wheels on their MTB and how every mfg. can't seem to make a good product, yet they are lighter/younger/etc. than me. Then you watch them plow through a huge rock garden or huck of a massive kicker to flat like they stole it and expect isth to handle that in stride. No you need to change the way you do things because you are abusing the part and expecting it to last.

 

[gregnash]

We've done 7 CV jobs in the past few months and all but one had spline issues. One or the other or both wouldn't fit the drive flanges. All were Cardone rebuilds. The one that didn't have an issue was the new Toyota set. We make it a point to check/re-crimp all bands during install.

For guys that are on the fence between aftermarket or OEM; I recommend calling Carl @just differentials for a set of Nitro CV assemblies. They run about 210.00 each happy medium and they stand behind and have a nice quality control. I can help acquire these or give Mik or Carl a call.

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series Nitro Birfield Axle Assembly

Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series Nitro Birfield Axle Assembly Nitro Gear & Axle strives to provide the highest quality differential & axle components available.

www.nitro-gear.com

Jason

Thanks for the info J, maybe I will have you grab me a set this spring/summer when I take a little pilgrimage out to your shop and grab the diff drop bracket as well!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

This seems logical to me. It's like the guys that I talk to that continually destroy wheels on their MTB and how every mfg. can't seem to make a good product, yet they are lighter/younger/etc. than me. Then you watch them plow through a huge rock garden or huck of a massive kicker to flat like they stole it and expect isth to handle that in stride. No you need to change the way you do things because you are abusing the part and expecting it to last.

This is exactly correct. A lot of damage can be negated by proper driving technique. But, hey what's the fun in that.....

But in all seriousness a Toyota part is new, tighter tolerances, and the exact specs. It should last longer and take more abuse than a rebuild aftermarket just meeting a "range" of specs and quality. It is very disappointing to see simple things like clamps and bolts being left loose and overlooked from such a quality driven entity.

 

[suprarx7nut]

So if OEM is unable to handle off road use and larger tires (on a Land Cruiser for God's sake!!) should one buy the least costly good quality aftermarket axles with perhaps a lifetime warranty and just plan of replacing them couple of years?

I think the folks with the most experience are saying the opposite - OEM is the most durable and highest quality CV available.

The disclaimer above is for aftermarket - not OEM. Although I think nearly every seller is going to have that same warning. Put 35's on a rig, get the tire spinning and crash it down to an instant stop coming off an obstacle and you'll ruin any cv because they're all limited by the splines in the hub flange and diff. It can only take so much before the material gives.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I think the folks with the most experience are saying the opposite - OEM is the most durable and highest quality CV available.

The disclaimer above is for aftermarket - not OEM. Although I think nearly every seller is going to have that same warning. Put 35's on a rig, get the tire spinning and crash it down to an instant stop coming off an obstacle and you'll ruin any cv because they're all limited by the splines in the hub flange and diff. It can only take so much before the material gives.

I have a set of custom made CrMo CVs for mine and I still bet they would snap in the above situation with my 34" tires. I have about 2000.00 wrapped up in my front CVs and don't trust they'd last a hard/aggressive trip or two.

 

[gatormark91]

good grief. In no way are the cheap aftermarket CV axles better than the OEM ones. check the clamps on new OEMs before you install them

The only way to 'check' them is to cut them off. Good luck with Toyota 12-month warranty if the clamps are not the ones they came with.

 

[TheForger]

The only way to 'check' them is to cut them off. Good luck with Toyota 12-month warranty if the clamps are not the ones they came with.

The clamps do not have serial numbers so if you cut off an old one just replace with another OEM clamp. They would never be able to tell the difference.

 

[medtro]

I know a few that have broken Toyota axles and when they were towed to the dealership the service manager walks out points to the "oversized" tires and refused warranty too.

I am not concern about broken axles. I am more concern about CV axles make noise after 15,000 miles with 285 75R16 or 275 70R18 tires.

 

[medtro]

Would be the same thing for Toyota or Cardone if they spelled it out (in writing and UP FRONT) as well. Toyota or Rock Auto will not "warranty" off road use either.

I checked with O'Reilly Auto Parts regarding Cardone CV axles before. The response I got was "Bring them in anytime you want to have new axles".

 

[reznunt]

So I bit the bullet and decided to take everyone's advice here and go new OEM Toyota on my last CV replacement. Apparently, there was way too little grease in it new, and it sprung a small, almost undetectable leak at the inside boot. It didn't make any mess at all, so I never even saw it - and I am VERY good on keeping up with what is going on under my truck.

So at 12 months and TWO WEEKS after purchasing it, it began crunching. I opened it up, added grease, re-clamped it, but it was too late. The clamps that came on it were laughably loose.

This is ridiculous, considering how much these things cost. I have a $75 AutoZone reman on the other side that hasn't even needed the clamps replaced, going strong on my truck (2.5" lift, SPCs, diff drop) after three years!

Really, really pissed off about this, Toyota.

I have over 25k on my Napa axles. I know the Mud consensus on aftermarket axles, but from personal experience the Napa's are worth every bit of $80.

 

[gregnash]

I have over 25k on my Napa axles. I know the Mud consensus on aftermarket axles, but from personal experience the Napa's are worth every bit of $80.

Question is, which version are they? There are two Napa MaxDrive axles (or at least now there are)... There is the standard and then the HD version (supposedly heavier duty boots). Then they offer remanufactured versions of each.

 

[abuck99]

The clamps do not have serial numbers so if you cut off an old one just replace with another OEM clamp. They would never be able to tell the difference.

Changing the Factory clamp with another factory clamp would require disassembly of the axle- not an optimal procedure for a simple seeping boot. My (oem) DS inner small clamp started a little seep at roughly 14 months after install. I first tried to add more crimp to the existing clamp but that wasnt effective. I used a NAPA boot clamp and its held effectively for the past year. Just snip the factory clamp off, clean the grease away under the lip of the boot for a clean bonding surface and install this type: no removal of cv or disassembly required. I do recommend a proper crimp tool to achieve correct tension per FSM procedure. Easy-

Napa CV boot clamp

CVB6865833 small

CVB6865834 Lg

 

[nitteo]

I went with a NAPA reman (Cardone) on my drivers. part #NMD 944038

The GXOR crowd are huge NAPA fans and thats how I wound up trying them on my 100.

13k miles ago from august install, No leaks, no issues with daily driving and hard trailing in there.

Ive been impressed so far, so I got the same NAPAs for $90 for my passenger side (250k old originals started clicking).

Did the install this past weekend.

$180 for 2 cv axles and did the labor myself vs $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ for OEM and Labor.

Edit: im on 33s, ironman 2 inch lift and no diff drop

 

[gregnash]

I went with a NAPA reman (Cardone) on my drivers. part #NMD 944038

The GXOR crowd are huge NAPA fans and thats how I wound up trying them on my 100.

13k miles ago from august install, No leaks, no issues with daily driving and hard trailing in there.

Ive been impressed so far, I got the same NAPAs for $90 for my passenger side (250k old originals started clicking).

Did the install this past weekend.

$180 for 2 cv axles and did the labor myself vs $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ for OEM and Labor.

Edit: im on 33s, ironman 2 inch lift and no diff drop

Interesting and good to know. I have been contemplating the Cardone HDs (Napa MaxDrive) because I have a Napa just about 2 miles from my house and have a decent relationship with them (purchase all of my non-OEM parts for my 60 from them over the years). Would be easy for me to run down to them should I have an issue with the axle vs. going the RockAuto route to save $30/ea. only to have to ship them somewhere for warranty issue. Hmmmm.....

 

[reznunt]

Question is, which version are they? There are two Napa MaxDrive axles (or at least now there are)... There is the standard and then the HD version (supposedly heavier duty boots). Then they offer remanufactured versions of each.

IIRC they were about $80 each when I got them. I have the box somewhere. I'll try to find the part #

 

[gregnash]

IIRC they were about $80 each when I got them. I have the box somewhere. I'll try to find the part #

Thanks... Looking at the NAPA website they offer two versions; standard and HD. The HD version has a heavy-duty thermoplastic outboard boot but other than that, there seems to be no difference between the two when doing a quick comparison. Price difference between the two is $86 for standard and $117 for HD, and the HD have to be special ordered.

 

[nitteo]

I got the maxdrives: #NMD 944038

 

[bamabrock]

are you using new drive flanges with these cardone axle assemblies?

 

[nitteo]

are you using new drive flanges with these cardone axle assemblies?

no. i reuse the same one. but i inspect for scoring or damage though.

just a new gasket, and star locking nut.

 

[bamabrock]

no. i reuse the same one. but i inspect for scoring or damage though.

just a new gasket, and star locking nut.

you didn't have any wear in the splines of the flange that would cause fitment issues and thus, clunking?