O R I O N

[D'Animal]

And it pops out

this will be delivered to you on saturday dan. orion #264 freshly converted to orion HD #52

I already spoke to Mathew at AA and OrangeFJ45 today.

 

[orangefj45]

well, that's frustrating to say the least......

did you try running it with the linkage dis-connected to start the "process of elimination"?

i was beyond anal when building that case so i seriously hope that it's not an internal issue, especially since it's poping ut of high.

georg

 

[D'Animal]

I removed all the linkage.

I think (hope) that the detent is so strong that I'm not getting it all the way in HI and that is the reason it is not staying in. I had to walk away from it last night before I got the big hammer out. I have plenty of other things to do on the rig. I will take a look at it again this morning.

 

[Mace]

I removed all the linkage.

I think (hope) that the detent is so strong that I'm not getting it all the way in HI and that is the reason it is not staying in. I had to walk away from it last night before I got the big hammer out. I have plenty of other things to do on the rig. I will take a look at it again this morning.

It's scary when you start listening to me

 

[D'Animal]

It's scary when you start listening to me

LOL!

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[D'Animal]

This was the problem.

I removed all the linkage.

I think (hope) that the detent is so strong that I'm not getting it all the way in HI and that is the reason it is not staying in.

I grabbed the shifter with a big pair of channel locks and snapped it in HI. Works fine and stays in.

With the linckage connected, the "Low / Hi" lever bound up. The swivel joints do not allow the proper travel and it was not fully in HI. That is the reason it kept popping out.

The twin stick shifter bracket is on upside down. It is on correctly acording to the directions though! LOL

 

['74 UA FJ]

So where can I get a much stronger spring for the detent?

 

[D'Animal]

So where can I get a much stronger spring for the detent?

Call mathew at Advance Adaptors.

It was an upgrade to my 1st orion. (#318)

 

[Poser]

So where can I get a much stronger spring for the detent?

Case #408, correct?


You should already have it. Brass machined nut for the shift fork, heavier spring and new detent ball.

 

[Poser]

This was the problem.




I grabbed the shifter with a big pair of channel locks and snapped it in HI. Works fine and stays in.

With the linckage connected, the "Low / Hi" lever bound up. The swivel joints do not allow the proper travel and it was not fully in HI. That is the reason it kept popping out.

The twin stick shifter bracket is on upside down. It is on correctly acording to the directions though! LOL

Glad you figured it out Dan.




I always suspect linkage/engine mount/shifter hole/boot issues before pointing at the transfer case.


Amazing how many times it has come up that way.

 

[D'Animal]

My problem and documented fix starts on post # 1388 here,

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-c...icle-build-finally-begins-47.html#post4743941

 

['74 UA FJ]

Case #408, correct?


You should already have it. Brass machined nut for the shift fork, heavier spring and new detent ball.

Yes. I have all of that.

I am wheeling this weekend. I will disconnect the linkage and see what results.

 

[petescoffee]

This was the problem.




I grabbed the shifter with a big pair of channel locks and snapped it in HI. Works fine and stays in.

With the linckage connected, the "Low / Hi" lever bound up. The swivel joints do not allow the proper travel and it was not fully in HI. That is the reason it kept popping out.

The twin stick shifter bracket is on upside down. It is on correctly acording to the directions though! LOL

Dan,
Good to here. So far so good on my HD as well. FYI If you use teh twin stick boot that they sent with the kit you will need to cut the metal ring in half and make it bigger. There is to much through on the land cruiser twin stick to work with the little twin stick boot. I messed mine up pretty good and purchased a bigger one from some where on the net. Probably get one froma tractor supply store.
Dave

 

['74 UA FJ]

Yes. I have all of that.

I am wheeling this weekend. I will disconnect the linkage and see what results.

Disconnecting the linkage has no effect on it popping out of gear. The linkage engages the case fully, and doesn't bind anywhere.

 

[orangefj45]

Dan,
Good to here. So far so good on my HD as well. FYI If you use teh twin stick boot that they sent with the kit you will need to cut the metal ring in half and make it bigger. There is to much through on the land cruiser twin stick to work with the little twin stick boot. I messed mine up pretty good and purchased a bigger one from some where on the net. Probably get one froma tractor supply store.
Dave

that all depends o nthe distance between the shift pivot bolt for the twin-sticks and the trans tunnel. there are many variables likt different engine and trans combinations, body lift, rear x-member and others to be taken into consideration.
but when all is said and done, you're better off running either two seperate boots or a larger boot like you mentioned to eliminate any possibility opf the boot "pulling" the lever back towards the center of it's travel.

georg

 

[hatfieldcb]

Continuing with the saga of my dropped thrust washer and broken gear teeth, take a look at these idler gear thrust washers. Yikes! I'm going to call AA and see if they'll send me some more. Or maybe Toyota.

 

[peesalot]

So it appears that 74 UA FJ did not have a linkage issue

 

[vtcruiser60]

Esterized ORION 4:1, #2444 installed.

IPOR skidplate with stock PTO visible.

For more info...here is the build thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/ma-nh-yankee-toys/273066-vtcruiser60s-spring-build-much-do.html

 

[65swb45]

While I'm not certain that I have the MOST road miles on an Orion, I've sure clocked several thousand on mine with trips to Rubicon, Dusy and Katemcy over the last few years. The detents in mine were SO STRONG that my dash-mount linkage was rendered basically useless. Art Banks helped me brace the face of my dashboard to my firewall, but the linkage is still not strong enough to shift the transfer case. Since it never popped out of gear, I left well enough alone. I shift it with a pair of channellocks at the bellhousing bellcrank.

On the drive up to SNT, the t-case popped out of gear FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER. I'd never heard of a 2-hi issue with the Orion, and as soon as I'd pulled over to find out why I was in neutral, of course I wasn't any more. I made the rest of the drive up uneventfully, but had more problems with it on Saturday. As fate would have it, Matthew from AA was manning Checkpoint 4 with me, so he got an earful. By the time I hit Grand Ave on Sunday, it was all over. Couldn't go a single block without it popping. I ended up putting a motorcycle tiedown from the linkage to my skidplate to hold the lever as tight as possible for the drive home. FWIW, the amount of movement achieved with the motorcycle tiedown was less than 1/16th of an inch.

I have not had time to pull the t-case out to confirm my suspicions, but I suspect that the same forces that caused AA to impliment the inboarded detents and heavier springs have been pushing my brand new hi-low shift collar back HARD against the shift fork long enough to wear the slot out in the collar. If this is true, you can count on it being a reoccuring problem for EVERY Orion as the road miles add up.

Interestingly enough, Matthew shared with me his opinion that a shift collar that had INTERNAL detents would theoretically hold onto the gear better than a smooth one. Since I may well have a USED collar that fits that description, I would consider installing it. What say ye?

 

[orangefj45]

if i were a betting man, i'd say that the fork is worn, not the collar.