No clue on that bracket.
Did you open the charcoal canister? wondering what a 38 year old internal looks like.
Did you open the charcoal canister? wondering what a 38 year old internal looks like.
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Did you actually rebuild this or just pull it apart and clean it? I used one I had in my pile. Hope it's fine.
Bodean
Hot Damn
Really? If that works it will be an "only you" situation.
Yeah, both methods have their benefits. However, getting into small spaces can be difficult, if not impossible, with either of the above. Evapo-Rust is just one more tool in the restoration arsenal.
As an example: The clamp on the top was so rusty and corroded I almost threw it away. The one on the bottom is brand new from Toyota.
It was new. I had 4 of them but this one had the right firewall bolt pattern.
I'll be on go to buy a new one if I need to.
Who makes the best replacement clutch master or are they all Chinese junk now?
aisin
The heater duct... new or restore? I'm away from my 40 right now so I can't compare but I seem to think that is either soft or hard plastic. If it is, did you paint it or use a restorative conditioner type product to get it black (mines faded)? Details please..
Why are you not doing the peanut butter thing on the plastics?
It's like a big ole coat of armor all.
under_psi
SILVER Star
PB is messy...but it works.....although i have seriously considered painting mine lately.....it's got a few scratches on it and would sure benefit from the paint.....
the blower as well...but im afraid that ive spoaked so much PB and coconut oil on it that i'd never get it prepped well enough to paint....
the blower as well...but im afraid that ive spoaked so much PB and coconut oil on it that i'd never get it prepped well enough to paint....
Man, those bumper gussets are pitted...I'd scrap the whole project.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #760
You guys got me all worried about this engine (@dnp and @Bodean ) so I decided I had to check things out before everything went back together.
Bought a leak down tester, and checked each cylinder.
The bad news: each cylinder appears to be leaking.
The good news: All leaks were either from the exhaust or intake valves. i.e. There was no air escaping from the oil filler cap, dipstick, or cooling system. I spoke to @offr0adlim0 and he said that the above indicated that the piston rings were fine. I also visually and physically (by touch) inspected the cylinder walks for ridges while installing the oil pan (didn't see anything either).
Sounds like once the engine gets up and running again, a valve adjustment will get things back to where they need to be.
On a different note, I was contacted by @wct49 the day before yesterday. Looks like I'll be able to pick up my lift, tires, and front axle rebuild kit early next week. Woohoo.
Now it's time to start disassembling the axle and blasting/painting/powdercoating where necessary.
Bought a leak down tester, and checked each cylinder.
The bad news: each cylinder appears to be leaking.
The good news: All leaks were either from the exhaust or intake valves. i.e. There was no air escaping from the oil filler cap, dipstick, or cooling system. I spoke to @offr0adlim0 and he said that the above indicated that the piston rings were fine. I also visually and physically (by touch) inspected the cylinder walks for ridges while installing the oil pan (didn't see anything either).
Sounds like once the engine gets up and running again, a valve adjustment will get things back to where they need to be.
On a different note, I was contacted by @wct49 the day before yesterday. Looks like I'll be able to pick up my lift, tires, and front axle rebuild kit early next week. Woohoo.
Now it's time to start disassembling the axle and blasting/painting/powdercoating where necessary.
