Nut & Bolt Frame-Off 1978 FJ40 Restoration

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I have not forgotten. And no, haven't done it yet.
 
Steering pedestal has been removed.

Called Valley Hybrids this morning and talked to Georg. Sounds like I will need to have my hands on a pump before I order any parts from him to ensure I get the correct fittings. He too suggested I find the Saginaw/Volvo pump from Volvo 240D.

So now I am on the hunt for one. Do any of you guys have one laying around you'd be willing to part with? Per @euclid 's suggestion, I contacted Jeff Davis about purchasing his, but from talking to him, it doesn't sound like he's remotely close to upgrading his system.

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Steering pedestal has been removed.



Called Valley Hybrids this morning and talked to Georg. Sounds like I will need to have my hands on a pump before I order any parts from him to ensure I get the correct fittings. He too suggested I find the Saginaw/Volvo pump from Volvo 240D.

So now I am on the hunt for one. Do any of you guys have one laying around you'd be willing to part with? Per @euclid 's suggestion, I contacted Jeff Davis about purchasing his, but from talking to him, it doesn't sound like he's remotely close to upgrading his system.

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I may have my old set up in the trailer. Get with Rob later this week. If he has time maybe he can dig around...
 
I thought while I have the drivetrain out, now would be a good time to resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch.

1. What is the best source for a clutch, aftermarket, or OE?

2. I've never installed a clutch before; anyone here think they could lend me a hand when the time comes?
 
1. What is the best source for a clutch, aftermarket, or OE?

OE for sure. Make sure you replace the pilot & throw out bearings while you are in there. Maybe even the rear main seal. You'll never have a better opportunity.

2. I've never installed a clutch before; anyone here think they could lend me a hand when the time comes?

You are in the ideal situation - since you have the drivetrain out, there's really not much to this job. Once you pull the transmission from the bellhousing, it will all make sense. This job is a major PIA with everything still in the truck.
 
I thought while I have the drivetrain out, now would be a good time to resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch.

1. What is the best source for a clutch, aftermarket, or OE? ^What Cam said^

2. I've never installed a clutch before; anyone here think they could lend me a hand when the time comes?^What Cam said^ and replacing all is cake (I've never replaced the pilot on a 2F [is it a bushing or a bearing on a 2F?]) You'll also need a clutch disc alignment tool, but they're readily available
 
Cruiser Corps has Aisin kits; I figure that's probably the best route.
 
32 lbs of hardware ready to be plated.

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I'm having it done here in town (at least taking it in to get a quote). All Cadmium.

If the quote is outrageous, I'll ship it to a company in Colorado.
 
So I have some very very bad news...


My Vibratory Numbner died this afternoon.

I'll try to exchange it for a new one tomorrow, granted its still under warranty. :(
 
When we installed the Georg-built H41 and Orion, we replaced the clutch, rear main, and oil pan gasket. Georg recommended the Luk Clutch brand, pn 16-006. I paid $142 on eBay from a vendor with good feedback. It has worked well and after a couple of years, it is due for an adjustment.
 
When we installed the Georg-built H41 and Orion, we replaced the clutch, rear main, and oil pan gasket. Georg recommended the Luk Clutch brand, pn 16-006. I paid $142 on eBay from a vendor with good feedback. It has worked well and after a couple of years, it is due for an adjustment.

You are not the first person I've seen suggest that clutch.

Ordered. Thanks, Lash.
 
The local powdercoating guy is not able to do it?

Cadmium plating is an entirely different animal. Toxic too. I doubt the PC guy would do it, though I did not ask.

I'm super excited about seeing the finished product.
 
You are not the first person I've seen suggest that clutch.

Ordered. Thanks, Lash.

Exact same setup, parts, and process on my 40 as well.

The kit comes with an alignment tool.

If you have access to an engine stand you can bolt it up and flip it upside down after you separate bellhousing etc. In that position it's super easy to replace the oil pan gasket, rear main, and pilot bearing (it's a bearing @dnp).
 
Will the plating affect the fitment of the bolts?
 
Shouldn't, especially considering I tumbled them first.
 
For those in the know: there are absolutely no leaks in the oil pan gasket.

Don't you think i ought to not mess with it? I can always replace it later; not too hard, even with the engine mounted (fish line method).

Or will I HAVE to remove the oil pan to replace rear main?

And the kit looks like it comes with a pilot bearing and throw out bearing as well.
 

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