NST Spec Body Lift Kit (4 Viewers)

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Also wanted to ask for some ideas from the group about another question I had asked of me last night from a customer that just had the 1.5” kit installed by a local shop and noticed this…

“…only thing is I get a little feedback or vibration from the steering wheel over bumps. It’s nothing crazy or excessive but very minor and only notice if you were driving and had hands on the steering wheel…”

Can anyone else think of why someone might experience this? I couldn’t think of any reason for this after just the 1.5” kit was installed. Obviously the steering shaft has been placed into a new position but no one, that I’m aware of, has experienced this before.
 
The only place I’ve encountered it with a customer is from the 9th crossmember bolt that was very slightly making contact with the body, instead of hovering over it, as the factory bolt does. The simple solution for that is a small washer as a spacer at the bottom, pushing the head of my custom bolt up just a small amount so it doesn’t make contact with the body. That specific bolt is hard to make exactly perfect every time. There’s probably a better way, but I haven’t figured it out yet. This is the only bolt that I think could be the culprit of noise from my kits…
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Not really chasing a sound in my case but more of a light light thud and seems to be in the front left portion of the LX when going over bumps. Almost feels like a loose bolt or loose mount. The installing shop drove it and felt it too. They torqued the front mounts a little more but it’s still there. Not sure if maybe loosing the front mounts and retorquing it them together can help. It’s so slight but there and noticeable. I’d assume if small bumps do it then off-roading you’d feel it significantly more so hoping to find the remedy or issue soon.
 
Not really chasing a sound in my case but more of a light light thud and seems to be in the front left portion of the LX when going over bumps. Almost feels like a loose bolt or loose mount. The installing shop drove it and felt it too. They torqued the front mounts a little more but it’s still there. Not sure if maybe loosing the front mounts and retorquing it them together can help. It’s so slight but there and noticeable. I’d assume if small bumps do it then off-roading you’d feel it significantly more so hoping to find the remedy or issue soon.
Only other thing I could think of is if the head or large washer of the body mount bolt is sitting flat on the body, and not up somehow on the tabs of the sheet metal of the body that are supposed to prevent it from spinning. That seems like a long shot, but I can’t think of anything else. I know those tabs aren’t especially strong and can get bent over or bent back if an impact is used. If a tab or both tabs where bent, then the large washer would be forced to sit up on top of those tabs, and I’d think it would cause a difficult way to torque it down and maybe it could cause a very light thud. Sorry, that’s the only thing I can think of.

You may look at your clearances around the radiator and see if there is anything that could possibly be touching the radiator in its new position, like a small hose or hard line.

Please let us know if you find the solution or culprit.
 
Hey guys,

I've started tearing down my 2013 LX 570 to install the 1.5" from Micah. So far no issues. I sprayed all the body mount bolts from the top and bottom to start, then came back the next afternoon and all of them came right out no problem. I disconnected the radiator shroud's 4 bolts, loosened the driver's side and completely removed the nuts from the passenger side. Today I'll raise up the passenger side and begin installing the pucks. But, otherwise, pretty simple disassembly so far and Micah quickly answered some questions I had before lifting, but I'm going to lift slowly without releasing the front passenger wheelwell bolt he mentions, the steering linkage, and the gear shifter to see how it goes and whether or not it's needed or not to do. He did say I'll need to release and retighten the gear shifter from underneath once it's lifted, but that should be easy.

I'm unclear how the rear bumper that surrounds the steel frame/hitch will be able to be raised without cutting the entire off the bottom of it...maybe I'm missing something on that process lol, but I thought I read through all this pretty well. :) I'm also unclear why the foam needs trimmed up front if we're moving up the entire aluminum frame piece 1.5" to compensate for the lift...shouldn't it just fit right under the bumper like normal again?

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Not much else to report...tonight I bought some jacks to place under the pinch welds, so I'll use the lift to raise the whole truck frame, then place the jacks under the pinch welds, then lower the lift slightly to create the 2" gap to slide the pucks into place, then raise the lift again to put full weight and tighten then I'm guessing loosen a tad again so they'll move un-binded when I begin to raise the driver's side. It's been years since I've done a body lift, but seems logical to me at this point lol.

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You’re gonna definitely end up trimming the bumper underneath - especially around the tow hitch. And don’t forget to get some starboard or other material to fill the bumper gap
 
Hey guys,

I've started tearing down my 2013 LX 570 to install the 1.5" from Micah. So far no issues. I sprayed all the body mount bolts from the top and bottom to start, then came back the next afternoon and all of them came right out no problem. I disconnected the radiator shroud's 4 bolts, loosened the driver's side and completely removed the nuts from the passenger side. Today I'll raise up the passenger side and begin installing the pucks. But, otherwise, pretty simple disassembly so far and Micah quickly answered some questions I had before lifting, but I'm going to lift slowly without releasing the front passenger wheelwell bolt he mentions, the steering linkage, and the gear shifter to see how it goes and whether or not it's needed or not to do. He did say I'll need to release and retighten the gear shifter from underneath once it's lifted, but that should be easy.

I'm unclear how the rear bumper that surrounds the steel frame/hitch will be able to be raised without cutting the entire off the bottom of it...maybe I'm missing something on that process lol, but I thought I read through all this pretty well. :) I'm also unclear why the foam needs trimmed up front if we're moving up the entire aluminum frame piece 1.5" to compensate for the lift...shouldn't it just fit right under the bumper like normal again?

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At the front, no one has raised the entire aluminum crash bar, that I know of. We have all just moved the small L shaped brackets that hold the bottom of the bumper on (upwards the amount of the body lift). That’s why we cut the foam to accommodate the new position of it.

BTW, that looks like a fun motorcycle you have in your garage 🤙🏼 I just finished a basic rider’s safety course here to hopefully improve my safety on the road. I’ve only ever ridden off road. They put me on a KLX230 for the weekend and I had a blast zipping around a large parking lot!
 
Oh gotcha...I just reread everything again and still thought everyone was moving the aluminum up and was still confused about trimming the foam lol. Thanks for the repeated clarification for my slow brain lol. I'll look at it and see if moving up the whole thing might be doable with relative ease too, just in case, because I'm always a tad different lol.

Yeah, that's Zach's first little bike he's ever ridden. It's a 2023 KX 112 and flat out rips lol. glad he's scare of it right now, because I can hop on it and wheelie the heck out of it through 3rd gear easily...they're so light and that two stroke powerband is so fun. Slapping a steahly 13 oz flywheel weight on it tomorrow to soften the hit and help him get used to it some more before he kills himself.

Chris
 

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