bloc
SILVER Star
I think if you can keep the damage to the bushing you’ll be ok as they are replaceable. Not ultra cheap but won’t break the bank either.
But yes getting the bolts to move is by far the best strategy.
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- Thread starter arich
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I think if you can keep the damage to the bushing you’ll be ok as they are replaceable. Not ultra cheap but won’t break the bank either.
But yes getting the bolts to move is by far the best strategy.
I live in Orange County and looking for someone to install the front spacers. Do you kind if I ask who did yours? Looks great!
Just ordered from my local Toyota. It came out to $46.22 per side with price match and shipping factored in.
Daily driver with spacers and Geolander G015 285/65/18 installed. No rubbing.
Greetings all:
New to the forum. Did the spacer install on my 2021 LC200. It was a real PITA and I'm not sure if I'd go through the effort again unless I was installing a new suspension at the same time. Regardless, it does level the vehicle out and I am pleased with the results. There really is no way to get the LCA to just "swing down", at least, not with my new vehicle. There was a LOT of resistance. Might be easier to loosen the alignment cam bolts, but I didn't want to mess with the alignment. So here is the step-by-step that I did:
Give yourself a full uninterrupted weekend to do this so you're not stressing too much while dealing with the lower strut removal and reinstall or the sway bar headaches. I spent some time head-scratching and googling, so it turned into a two day job for me.
Cheers,
Dave
New to the forum. Did the spacer install on my 2021 LC200. It was a real PITA and I'm not sure if I'd go through the effort again unless I was installing a new suspension at the same time. Regardless, it does level the vehicle out and I am pleased with the results. There really is no way to get the LCA to just "swing down", at least, not with my new vehicle. There was a LOT of resistance. Might be easier to loosen the alignment cam bolts, but I didn't want to mess with the alignment. So here is the step-by-step that I did:
- Open KDSS Shutter Valves
- Tools Required:
- 5mm Alan Key or Socket; OR
- 8mm socket with extension (newer KDSS valves)
- Tools Required:
- Turn BOTH shutter valve bolts counterclockwise 2.5 turns (no more than 3 turns)
- Measure height of each corner of the vehicle and note the height somewhere: 34.5”
- Take a photo of the front-end alignment cams, make sure notches can be seen well.
- Jack up the entire front end, support using jack stands.
- Remove the front wheels (I did one wheel at a time).
**DISASSEMBLY PER SIDE** - Using bungee cords or similar, support the spindle as tightly up as you can (not sure how much good this does, but made sense).
- Disconnect the Sway Bar Linkage using a 19mm socket
- Remove Lower Strut Bolt using a 22mm socket and 22mm spanner (box/open-end)
- Loosen the two (2) lower control arm bolts using a 22mm socket with long breaker bar.
- Lower control arm (LCA) should then be able to move downward for levering.
- Remove the four (4) bolts at the top of the strut.
- Leave the two outward nuts very loosely attached to prevent the strut from dropping and potentially damaging the CV boot.
- Be prepared to turn the steering as you work to allow for better access and CV boot awareness.
- LEVER the strut out. Note: This requires a VERY large screw driver and is HARD.
- Install spacers, noting outward direction as indicated on spacers, you may need to finesse the strut down a bit, watch the CV boots.
**REASSEMBLY PER SIDE** - Install the four (4) bolts very loosely at the top of the strut.
- LEVER the strut back into the LCA.Note: Very large screw driver and also HARD AF.
- Plan for a second person;
- Have some wood blocks, pieces, etc. to jam between suspension stops.
- This is basically patience, a bit of geometric thinking, blood, sweat, tears, and cursing.
- Torque the four (4) top strut bolts:
- Torque to 33 ft. lbs.
- Reinstall the two (2) lower control arm bolts:
- Torque to 221 ft. lbs.
- Reinstall Lower Strut Bolt, hand tight only.
- Reinstall front wheels.
- Torque Lug Nuts to 97 ft-lb or 131 Nm
**LOWER VEHICLE**
- Torque Lug Nuts to 97 ft-lb or 131 Nm
- Reinstall Sway Bar Linkage:
- This will require lowering the vehicle.
- Using screwdrivers as levers and while the vehicle is on the ground with wheels on, finesse the driver's side linkage in.
- Then jack up the passenger side.
- Then use a floor jack to compress the sway bar under the spring/damper (look for the rubber boot) on the driver's side):
- This will allow the passenger sway bar linkage to lower and be levered back into the linkage seat, wheels must be straight.
- This will also take some patience and finagling, but it does fit back in without much force. Keep in mind you can lightly lever the bushing around to get the right angle.
- Torque to 89 ft. lbs.
- Torque Lower Strut Bolt
- Torque to 144 ft. lbs.
- Allow vehicle to “settle” for 5-10 minutes.
- Close KDSS shutter valves:
- Torque to: 10 ft. lbs. or 14 Nm (140 kgf/cm, 10 ft/lbf).
- Check alignment marks to ensure no vehicle realignment is required.
- This should “level” the vehicle. Result: 35.5” from ground to fender will, 1” lift.
**INSTALLATION COMPLETE**
Give yourself a full uninterrupted weekend to do this so you're not stressing too much while dealing with the lower strut removal and reinstall or the sway bar headaches. I spent some time head-scratching and googling, so it turned into a two day job for me.
Cheers,
Dave
Ah, almost forgot. Despite what I've read elsewhere, my vehicle has noticeable positive camber and will need an alignment after the install of the spacers. So marking or photographing the alignment might be kind of pointless, since you might want to have the positive camber dealt with by a shop.
One other thought: Once upon a time, I used to have a drive-on lift. The strut removal/install would have been a breeze with the vehicle on a drive-on lift then using ratchet straps to ratchet down the lower control arms downward by wrapping the straps around the lift.
One other thought: Once upon a time, I used to have a drive-on lift. The strut removal/install would have been a breeze with the vehicle on a drive-on lift then using ratchet straps to ratchet down the lower control arms downward by wrapping the straps around the lift.
UPDATE: After 50 miles and an alignment, the spacer install settled into about a 3/4" lift/level in front (and I'm being generous). My wife asked me if it was worth the effort...my immediate answer: No. It just isn't enough of a difference to really matter, and I don't care how many pics from how many angles get posted. If I knew then what I know now, I would have just driven it as is and worried about leveling it when I was ready to go off pavement with it.
So, for those of you on the fence about doing this to a newer LC200 (much like I was), I advise against it. The juice isn't worth the squeeze IMHO. If you're paying someone else to do it: I still advise against it. Just wait till you feel your truck is ready for a 2"+ leveling lift and be happy with how it rides on pavement until that day.
Again, this is just my own personal opinion after doing the work and driving the results. I mean no offense; each to his own.
Dave
So, for those of you on the fence about doing this to a newer LC200 (much like I was), I advise against it. The juice isn't worth the squeeze IMHO. If you're paying someone else to do it: I still advise against it. Just wait till you feel your truck is ready for a 2"+ leveling lift and be happy with how it rides on pavement until that day.
Again, this is just my own personal opinion after doing the work and driving the results. I mean no offense; each to his own.
Dave
