Nothing of interest here
- Thread starter Homey15
- Start date
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Sweet!
You should be proud! Very factory looking.
Shaping and forming metal looks easy and is very far from it.
Shaping and forming metal looks easy and is very far from it.
- Thread starter
- #125
Thank you. It would have been SO much easier to just get rid of the ribs altogether and throw in a piece of flat, it's gonna be covered by oe floor mat anyway... But I would know it was there, and that just wouldn't do. I wanted the repair to be as true to original and invisible as possible- and (usually) when I do something, I want it to at least appear that I gave a s***. This time, I feel like I accomplished that.
- Thread starter
- #126
Ordered some 8mm Blair cutter tips to use instead of the 3/8 since this thing has itty-bitty spotwelds. Also broke the top down the rest of the way to assess condition of everything. Hatch header is definitely toast, which helped sway my decision to run Amby doors.
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- #130
The holes for the hardtop in the b pillars were fairly mangled up, I speculate it had the top on when the rollover I believe it to have been in took place and this was the outcome. Did some hammer and dolly work here too.
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- #132
Did some cutting on the rust in the toe board, had to use the cutoff wheel as a grinder trick on a couple of the spotwelds that were too rusted over to locate well enough to use the Blair cutter. I was pretty happy with the condition of the inside of the floor support.
- Thread starter
- #133
Got my homemade repair panel trimmed to size and shape, and pinned into place. The ribs weren't perfect and required a little massaging to fit to my liking. Still definitely wasn't perfect but was good enough. I like to get panels about 50% welded in then roughly take down the tops of the welds. This helps keep spotwelds from stacking up as you get it all welded solid and can save some grinding in the long run.
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- #135
Pecked around on the rear/side section of the front floors and the passenger front floorpan with pointed body hammer to expose all the soft spots, and stared at it a bit. Started roughing in a patch for the driver's side rear section and stared at that too. Also broke in a new koozie.
Nice work. I like your approach to the floorboard repair.
FJ40Savvy
SILVER Star
Watching ... I have a hardtop when the PO also cut off the posts. So I also need to replace them. Looking forward to seeing your solution.
- Thread starter
- #138
I will be sure to take good pics/measurements when I reach this stage. Are yours cut flush or do you have a stub to work with?
FJ40Savvy
SILVER Star
Cut Flush. My first thought is to make an insert with a piece pipe and then tack weld it onto the top. I have access to a metal lathe.
- Thread starter
- #140
I think the insert sleeve is a solid plan, you could machine a snug fit and drive it inside the stub in the top a few inches and stick out the bottom a few inches to stabilize/hold straight the new spliced on pipe section. The new pipe section could be plug welded to the insert. Do you have any rust in that area to contend with like mine does or is the missing pipe the only damage?