Not another will this tire fit thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 12, 2021
Threads
4
Messages
24
Location
cincinnati
Sorry,

I searched but I don’t see the wheel/tire combo anywhere.
I’ve got a link to the Google sheet as well and not a lot of help there.

So, what do you all think about this wheel/tire setup in a ‘14 LX?
How much rubbing can I expect? Can I get away with just pushing the inner fender up and AHC sensor lift?

MR318 wheels. 18x8.5 +40 offset.
285/70R18 tires.

I’m thinking the 285 is same as stock so should be Ok with clearance, also the offset gives me 20mm to work with although the wheel is .5 wider and will take some of that.
33.7in should fit with sensor lift and some minor messaging of the inner fender, based on what I’ve read so far.

I’ve searched for that specific tire size and for the wheel but couldn’t find anything
 
Sorry,

I searched but I don’t see the wheel/tire combo anywhere.
I’ve got a link to the Google sheet as well and not a lot of help there.

So, what do you all think about this wheel/tire setup in a ‘14 LX?
How much rubbing can I expect? Can I get away with just pushing the inner fender up and AHC sensor lift?

MR318 wheels. 18x8.5 +40 offset.
285/70R18 tires.

I’m thinking the 285 is same as stock so should be Ok with clearance, also the offset gives me 20mm to work with although the wheel is .5 wider and will take some of that.
33.7in should fit with sensor lift and some minor messaging of the inner fender, based on what I’ve read so far.

I’ve searched for that specific tire size and for the wheel but couldn’t find anything

+40 offset is the ticket to maximize fitment and clearances. Doesn't get better than that.

This is the way. Proceed.
 
I ended up with the 295/70r18 wild peaks.

Looks like others have had decent success fitting without issue, so hoping I’ll be able to just push the fender liners in and heat up areas to make them fit.
 
I ended up with the 295/70r18 wild peaks.

Looks like others have had decent success fitting without issue, so hoping I’ll be able to just push the fender liners in and heat up areas to make them fit.
How did they end up ? Pictures? Thinking of doing the same to my LX570.
 
Overall it went well.

I shot s bunch of video of all the steps, but haven’t edited it all yet.

Waiting on some 5mm spacers as the tire touches the UCA but only when pushing the wheel at full lock.
I’m hoping 5-10mm spacers resolve that.

IMG_0538.jpeg
 
Overall it went well.

I shot s bunch of video of all the steps, but haven’t edited it all yet.

Waiting on some 5mm spacers as the tire touches the UCA but only when pushing the wheel at full lock.
I’m hoping 5-10mm spacers resolve that.

View attachment 3359208

Unless rubbing is severe why bother with a 5mm spacer?
 
Because I can hear it if I’m in a parking lot.
And that’s reason enough to play with some spacers and see if I can stop it.
 
Overall it went well.

I shot s bunch of video of all the steps, but haven’t edited it all yet.

Waiting on some 5mm spacers as the tire touches the UCA but only when pushing the wheel at full lock.
I’m hoping 5-10mm spacers resolve that.

View attachment 3359208

Great tire choice but the taller tire does get into fitment challenges that the shorter 285 won't, including clearance against the UCA. Be advised that clearance is most constrained when under full compression and steering lock. 5mm may or may not do it.

Check this out
UCA interference.

@nwfl4runner pointed out that there would be rub on the UCA at full compression, at least with an effective wheel offset of +35mm (stock wheel with 1" spacers). I ordered 1.25" spacers to make the necessary clearance.

After getting the spacers in and trying things out, I wasn't completely sold on that strategy for several reasons. I want the tires flush with the fenders. The tire clearance to the top of the fender is finger nails tight with 1" and could have contact with any more. Tire within the fender line also keeps body aero at speed as a big 35 outside of the body lines will contribute to additional drag. As I wanted to keep the stock mud flap, the spacer created tighter clearance there as the tire steered. 1" spacers puts scrub radius geometry closer to optimal. With larger tires and more spacer, also potentially creates additional stress on bearings and running components.

Close in and tight was really what I wanted. Considered going down the path of UCAs as many of them are lower profile in build. May still go down this path. Yet my suspension is barely lifted (.75") and I didn't necessarily want the alignment changes with an aftermarket UCA.

With nothing to lose, out comes the angle grinder. A useful tool when solving interference issues. :)

Marked the cut around the tire witness marks. Making a gentle curve to ensure no stress risers.

View attachment 2473859

Cut, grinded smooth, and a nice coat of paint
View attachment 2473862

I was going to weld and box material back in. Cut relatively little material away and the UCA is plenty strong there so no structural concerns in my mind. Given the geometry and strength primarily needed on the horizontal plane, these things are potentially still stronger in those directions than some aftermarket UCAs.
 
Oooooh, I would rather let it rub then cut the UCA.

Any cracking or bending over the last 2-3 years?
I don’t think my interference is that bad, honestly I don’t see witness marks like in your pictures. I just know it’s touching.

I got out there last night and I think what I was hearing was the fender liner rubbing. After a couple hot days last week it was trying to go back to its original shape.

I heated it back up and did a lot more reshaping to hopefully keep it out of the way.
Drilling a new clip hole in the liner and stretching to the inside might be the way to go long term.
 
@nvsmythe Do you have any pics of the side showing how far the tires extend past the fenders?

Looking at this same set of rims for a 16' LX570....MR318 wheels. 18x8.5 +40 offset

Thanks
 
You can use a heatgun and some massaging to make more clearance. Here's what I did on my previous 2009:

-
 
IMG_0848.jpeg
IMG_0849.jpeg


Front is just a hair outside the fender, the rear you can’t see behind the mud flap.

Ignore the dirt and Mud, I just got back from the Kentucky Toyota Trail Ride last weekend and haven’t washed it.

I would not go with any higher offset on a 295.
I have rubbing in the driver side sway bar, not enough to not drive it, but enough that it rubbed the paint off.
My eBay 5mm spacers wouldn’t fit over the hub, i haven’t looked for another set.
10mm or more spacers I feel you would need to get longer studs, I wouldn’t be comfortable with the few threads left for the lugs,
 
Overall it went well.

I shot s bunch of video of all the steps, but haven’t edited it all yet.

Waiting on some 5mm spacers as the tire touches the UCA but only when pushing the wheel at full lock.
I’m hoping 5-10mm spacers resolve that.

View attachment 3359208
This looks great is this the 285 or 295? Also did you do a sensor lift?
 
This looks great is this the 285 or 295? Also did you do a sensor lift?
295/70R18 wildpeaks.
They’ve been great, I use them mostly off-road. Not daily, sucks for gas mileage. Not the tires fault, just bigger and heavier.

I did have to do a sensor lift, as well as bending some plastic to eliminate rubbing. Very slight rub on the sway bar on the driver side at full lock.
Can’t feel/hear it, but paint rubbed off so I know it’s happening.

Since then I’ve relocated the rear lower shock mounting points, 50mm rear spring spacer, and a 20mm front strut spacer.
Huge difference in droop and flexibility.

I’m mere weeks away from new bumpers getting here, then no more rubbing.
 
295/70R18 wildpeaks.
They’ve been great, I use them mostly off-road. Not daily, sucks for gas mileage. Not the tires fault, just bigger and heavier.

I did have to do a sensor lift, as well as bending some plastic to eliminate rubbing. Very slight rub on the sway bar on the driver side at full lock.
Can’t feel/hear it, but paint rubbed off so I know it’s happening.

Since then I’ve relocated the rear lower shock mounting points, 50mm rear spring spacer, and a 20mm front strut spacer.
Huge difference in droop and flexibility.

I’m mere weeks away from new bumpers getting here, then no more rubbing.
Where did you get the spacers? All im seeing are 10mm from cruiserteq
 
eBay, TEMA4x4

They are a hard rubber with inserts. Comes with new studs for the top mount too.

I also got their 50mm rear spring spacers from them. Which is a 100% must do it you go with E&E rear strut brackets.

Also watch the full compression clearance and bump stops.
You want to hit the bump stop and not the full stroke on your shocks/struts.
I needed getting some of the 3d printed ones. Which I think where bigger then I needed, but I needed something taller than stock.
 
eBay, TEMA4x4

They are a hard rubber with inserts. Comes with new studs for the top mount too.

I also got their 50mm rear spring spacers from them. Which is a 100% must do it you go with E&E rear strut brackets.

Also watch the full compression clearance and bump stops.
You want to hit the bump stop and not the full stroke on your shocks/struts.
I needed getting some of the 3d printed ones. Which I think where bigger then I needed, but I needed something taller than stock.
Are the Tema front spacers working out? I have the OeM, the Tema, and now the EE off-road front spacers. Trying to decide which to go with. I did t like that the Tema were rubber.
 
So far so good.

I tightened them to compress the rubber,
I’m glad I went with the 20mm and longer studs.

That gave me just under 2in additional droop which I really needed after sensor/tech stream lift.

I don’t have many miles on them, but been through some pretty rough trails and am getting lots of comments about how much flex I have.

I used to lift tires all over the place in high and now I just roll on through.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom