Northwesttaco's 80 series crawler slammed on 4d's and BS
- Thread starter northwesttaco
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #222
That's what I'm doing tomorrow
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Even the birfield drifting back into the carrier is unlikely to cause any significant issues, frankly. There's a cross pin that the shaft will hit, or the bell of the birfield will end up just rubbing on the inside of the knuckle (which is a hollow sphere, so it's not like there's anything really gnarly for it to get caught on). Plus, as soon as you start to turn, it locates itself along the kingpin axis automatically.
So, IMO, if you're still hearing the noise (even if much quieter), it's probably still a driveshaft alignment issue. We won't know for sure until later, though.
If it makes you feel any better, before I used to do my own gears, the "expert" on Land Cruiser gears here in the bay area (according to 40 and 60 crowd) re-installed my driveshaft like 80 degrees out of phase and then told me my pinion angle was wrong and that's why it was vibrating. The guy actually was decent with gear setups, but everyone can make mistakes.
So, IMO, if you're still hearing the noise (even if much quieter), it's probably still a driveshaft alignment issue. We won't know for sure until later, though.
If it makes you feel any better, before I used to do my own gears, the "expert" on Land Cruiser gears here in the bay area (according to 40 and 60 crowd) re-installed my driveshaft like 80 degrees out of phase and then told me my pinion angle was wrong and that's why it was vibrating. The guy actually was decent with gear setups, but everyone can make mistakes.
I just read last 3 pages... I see a couple things that I would like to add to all the great info & advise that your getting.
1st thing is you paid someone to rebuild your axle then you had to basically tear it all apart & redo it. Lesson learned, do your own work, its a great learning opportunity confidence builder.
2nd,3 degrees of caster is stock specs correct? why are you at 6 degrees?
3rd, I think its your drive shaft. Pull it & lock CDL. Also check the U-joints & lube.
I'm enjoying your build keep posting.
Gary
1st thing is you paid someone to rebuild your axle then you had to basically tear it all apart & redo it. Lesson learned, do your own work, its a great learning opportunity confidence builder.
2nd,3 degrees of caster is stock specs correct? why are you at 6 degrees?
3rd, I think its your drive shaft. Pull it & lock CDL. Also check the U-joints & lube.
I'm enjoying your build keep posting.
Gary
- Thread starter
- #225
1) I had them rebuild it because after all the welding all the seals are blown and the axle was completely apart. Yeah I could have had them put it back together then tear it apart again myself but I thought they could handle it.
2) just to move the tires forward that much more. It's pretty common. On my last truck stock was 2 degrees but I had mine at 4.5 degrees caster.
3) going to do that today
- Thread starter
- #226
Yeah I didn't think it was the axle walking causing it, just something else that we found.
I really think it is the driveshaft as well, just which one that I'll figure out today.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Theres only 1 in the front
- Thread starter
- #228
I mean that as it could be the rear. I'm guessing it's the front too but even though the sounds and vibes are all up front i wouldn't be surprised if it's the rear.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
I would be
- Thread starter
- #230
Yup it's the front driveshaft 
- Thread starter
- #231
Now question is do I just get a double cardan? Or have this rebalanced and hope I don't get bind at droop?
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Are the pinion angles aligned? You have two angles that work. Dc shaft isnt a carte blanche solution. Research first. This is a general automotive thing not an 80 specific thing.
- Thread starter
- #233
Right now the pinion angle is set up for a single cardan, I did check that out to make sure. But will my single cardan bind up at full droop?
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
How did you make sure its setup?
- Thread starter
- #235
Researching on the internet and measuring. Pinion and t case output are parallel
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
- Thread starter
- #237
I have found old u-joints go south pretty quick when asked to operate at a different angle than they started, like when you put a lift on a truck. Hopefully a couple new joints solve your troubles.
- Thread starter
- #239
Yeah thats what im thinking too.
Also another reason for a double cardan is it would spread the force out over 3 u joints rather than 2.
A standard U-joint will allow for more axle movement without binding up. The shop that linked your rig probably knows that which is why you are set up for a single/single joint shaft. I have not read your entire thread. Is your transfer case part time? If so, the driveline flange angles are of less consequence unless you aim to spin the tires fast in deep snow or mud.
