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- #41
Yea it was just a cool car, by no means a smart purchase
Non-mechanically inclined person looking to buy 100 series
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My first one had 170k second had 295k and current one 190k. To answer your question it was either already done or needed it or I did it.
Ya Toyota Sequoia for half the price, same mileage. GX470s - better condition and a better value, and they're still a Land Cruiser......Prado. Tahoe's are cheap to run and drive train is solid, but the interior is classic GM. Nissan Xterra.
LCs, you're looking at creme of the crop of Suvs and it comes with the price tag too, even 20 years later.
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- #44
I will look into these. Thanks for your help. I just found a 1996 LC for 3,800 with 200k miles and no rust, except its in NC
Per the carfax, this thing spent its whole life in IL. If there is rust showing on the fender, I'd suspect that the underside isn't pretty either. You can also create a profile on the Toyota owners website, enter the VIN, and look through its service history (only applicable for service done at a Toyota or Lexus dealership).
If you decide that a Cruiser is what you want, be open to travelling to find the right one. It took me months and I ended up flying to Wichita Kansas to get mine.
Good luck.
If you decide that a Cruiser is what you want, be open to travelling to find the right one. It took me months and I ended up flying to Wichita Kansas to get mine.
Good luck.
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I’m sorry. I can’t agree with this.
A sequoia and GX470 need just as much or more maintenance as a LC. They all have 4.7s.
The Tahoe and Xterra will need maintenance as well. All vehicles over time need maintenance and parts replaced.
The 100 series is super reliable when maintained. It should be no more expensive than any of the others.
Are you saying the LC is more prone to failure than the other vehicles? I don’t agree with that at all.
From the truck's service history on 5/2018, @161,503 miles (available at www.toyota.com/owners):
"MISCELLANEOUS, BRAKE CONCERN,MILE/SERV MAINT, 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT, SET TOE, CAMBER, & CASTER ( IF CASTER IS ADJUSTABLE) NOTE: ADDITIONAL LABOR AND P~|~ ~|~ ~|~161503 150 COMPLETED 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT.VERY RUSTY CHASSIS, MAY HAVE FUTURE ISSUES., 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT, SET TOE, CAMBER, & CASTER ( IF CASTER IS ADJUSTABLE) NOTE: ADDITIONAL LABOR AND P, MISCELLANEOUS,MISCELLANEOUS, HOSES (CRACKS / DAMAGE / LEAKS), REQUIRES IMMEDIATE ATTENTION,FLUID LEAKS (ENGINE / TRANSMISSION / DIFFERENTIAL), REQUIRES IMMEDIATE ATTENTION, MILE/SERV MAINT, MILE/SERV MAINT, MILE/SERV MAINT, MISC. SHOP CHARGES "
"MISCELLANEOUS, BRAKE CONCERN,MILE/SERV MAINT, 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT, SET TOE, CAMBER, & CASTER ( IF CASTER IS ADJUSTABLE) NOTE: ADDITIONAL LABOR AND P~|~ ~|~ ~|~161503 150 COMPLETED 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT.VERY RUSTY CHASSIS, MAY HAVE FUTURE ISSUES., 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT, SET TOE, CAMBER, & CASTER ( IF CASTER IS ADJUSTABLE) NOTE: ADDITIONAL LABOR AND P, MISCELLANEOUS,MISCELLANEOUS, HOSES (CRACKS / DAMAGE / LEAKS), REQUIRES IMMEDIATE ATTENTION,FLUID LEAKS (ENGINE / TRANSMISSION / DIFFERENTIAL), REQUIRES IMMEDIATE ATTENTION, MILE/SERV MAINT, MILE/SERV MAINT, MILE/SERV MAINT, MISC. SHOP CHARGES "
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- #48
Oh wow you are a life saver. Yea thats a big no go. I cant thank you enough. THE SEARCH CONTINUES
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I would watch the Mud classifieds and look for a southern rig. If you are just a little patient there are some great buys on there.
UZJ100 | LX470
Classifieds : Toyota 100-series UZJ100 / HZJ105 Land Cruiser / Lexus LX-470
forum.ih8mud.com
I don't really feel many people buy a Land Cruiser (or LX) because they can now afford a $10K or so used SUV. IMO they are the most reliable vehicle out there, but we are still talking about a vehicle that's between 15-20 years old, and you will have to put money into it to maintain it. Also expect 12-13 MPG.
These are not cheap vehicles to operate and maintain unless you want to run it into the ground.
These are not cheap vehicles to operate and maintain unless you want to run it into the ground.
I never said more reliable. Just better values and you get more for your money as in newer year and less mileage, and also lower repair costs such as the Tahoe because parts are dime a dozen
While it sounds like @newbie001 has decided to pass on the rusty IL cruiser I am enjoying the service history discussion for a new wrench-er, which is what this thread is all about.
I have found the 100 series to be a vehicle that is easy to work on and maintain, provided the previous owner(s) kept up on things. This forum in filled with enough information and help you should not hesitate to buy a 100, unless you plan to pay a shop for maintenance. The 'excessive' maintenance folks do on these rigs is precisely why they have a reputation of reliability.
Some of the parts/mileage failure rates that have been indicated above seem kind of excessive from my experience. My 100 was purchased from the original owner at 245k miles and is now at 314k miles. I have the complete service history from Toyota for this rig up to my purchase and nothing but basic maintenance had been done when I got it. I started replacing parts that are worn (front axles, steering rack, suspension bushings, passenger window switch) since I take the 100 away from civilization quite often, and have not encountered a job that could not be done in a basic garage with a few special tools and a good attitude. Still rockin' the original radiator and brake master/booster.
If @newbie001 is willing to get dirty and learn how to work on a 100, I see no issue with pursuing it.
I have found the 100 series to be a vehicle that is easy to work on and maintain, provided the previous owner(s) kept up on things. This forum in filled with enough information and help you should not hesitate to buy a 100, unless you plan to pay a shop for maintenance. The 'excessive' maintenance folks do on these rigs is precisely why they have a reputation of reliability.
Some of the parts/mileage failure rates that have been indicated above seem kind of excessive from my experience. My 100 was purchased from the original owner at 245k miles and is now at 314k miles. I have the complete service history from Toyota for this rig up to my purchase and nothing but basic maintenance had been done when I got it. I started replacing parts that are worn (front axles, steering rack, suspension bushings, passenger window switch) since I take the 100 away from civilization quite often, and have not encountered a job that could not be done in a basic garage with a few special tools and a good attitude. Still rockin' the original radiator and brake master/booster.
If @newbie001 is willing to get dirty and learn how to work on a 100, I see no issue with pursuing it.
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I agree 100%. I think the 100 series is very easy to work on and maintain. I can’t think of a better vehicle to learn wrenching and maintenance on, and certainly not one that would be as comfortable and capable.
The platform is very simple and robust. Almost all of the work can be done on ones own driveway. Plus the community is 2nd to none. There isn’t much that can’t be tackled and solved with the help of this forum.
Heck, one of the most commonly used tools is the BFH(big ****ing hammer). That says a lot about the rig right there. They are definitely not delicate.
GX470 or 4th Gen 4Runner's are pretty straightforward to work on and will take you anywhere a cruiser will. They just arent heavy duty frame and body like 100 series. I have 100 and a v8 4runner. 100 is built like a tank, 4runner is built like a 4runner and a lot lighter feeling throughout the construction.
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- #56
Thanks for everyone’s responses. I’m enjoying this community and I hope to join it very soon. I’m trying to find a rig that is rust free and well maintained so I’m starting my journey on the best foot.
is it because lack of maintance on the brake fluid flush? rust belt? design? i hear this posted a lot and wondering if its a design failure or maintenance failure. With my 100, i made sure i got one owner with lots of history and it showed brake fluid flush at 60k and 120k and i did it again at 190k... everything was done at dealer and with all this maintance if it happens to me my wallet is going to cry.
to OP:
If i was just out of college I'd go for a 4runner due to not needing the size for my family but still wanting reliability, durability, and capability off road. Your dollars will go farther in a 4 runner as well because they are more abundant.
If you love land cruiser, don't settle.. but remember its a tank, gets 13-15mpg, and because the parts are long lasting and high quality when issues arise it can get spendy... being an LC it shouldn't be often.
Failure by design, it's a wear item. It's electric boosted via a electric motor (same design as your door lock motors, just bigger), then there's the high pressure accumulator. Motor wears out. Accumulator looses holding pressure over age. Then master cylinder seals go bad. This isn't the vacuum assisted ones you find on most cars, which is why the unit is so expensive, but allows for Atrac to work. Normal cars have hydraulic assisted brakes. Lc100 has a electro hydraulic assist. You get brake assist when your motor is off via the electric boosted pressure
Mercedes utilizes same design. It's called SBC, that was codesigned with Bosch. Same problem of units going out just like the LCs,4r, Prados, etc. Mercedes recalled 1.5 million vehicles with SBC. Also, there is a 25 year extended warranty on SBC units for Mercedes. Yes they chalked up an offer 25 year warranty, unlimited miles on these sbc units! NHTSA didn't even have to get involved for Mercedes to issue this.
Priuses also have these electro-hydraulic units. They also fail. Toyota extended the warranty to 10 yrs, because enough people complained to NHTSA they went bad.
Just really disappointed at Toyota for not doing anything about the LCs. It's most likely because LCs are such a small amount of total Toyotas.
Sum it up short, the brake mc unit on the LC fails sooner or later due to design. The motor and accumulator seals don't last a lifetime. If the LC is all highway then sure the unit can last 300-500k mi. If it's LA stop and go every day then, 120-200k mi.
GTV
SILVER Star
While you’re looking start saving. Put away $XXX per month (at least as much as a loan would cost you, but as much as you can) and don’t buy anything above what you have saved. The longer you look the more educated you’ll become and the wiser buy you’ll make. You'll also have more money in your budget.
I work on my own cars as much as I can (thermostat replacements, brake jobs, wheel bearings/hubs etc) I'm learning as I go. I have found the limiting factor for me is usually tools, not skill. There is so much information available online that you can find what you need to learn what you need to do, but I usually end up having to buy a tool or tools to get the job done. I'm very slowly accumulating the tools I need for most jobs. Having a garage to store all this stuff is a necessity for being able to do bigger jobs on a truck like this. The only thing that worries me is that damn ABS pump....
IMO I would not buy an old LC if I wasn't going to plan to work on it myself for at least small to medium jobs. Labor is so expensive it just wouldn't make sense to put that much money into a 10-12k truck. For instance, a wheel hub replacement on my wife's van would have probably been at least $400, and I did it for $100 in parts plus about $70 in tools that I now have to do a similar job later.
IMO I would not buy an old LC if I wasn't going to plan to work on it myself for at least small to medium jobs. Labor is so expensive it just wouldn't make sense to put that much money into a 10-12k truck. For instance, a wheel hub replacement on my wife's van would have probably been at least $400, and I did it for $100 in parts plus about $70 in tools that I now have to do a similar job later.
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