Non-mechanically inclined person looking to buy 100 series

[ga12r1]

I think it’s hard to go wrong with a Cruiser that’s been well maintained.
If you maintain it yourself and decide in a year or two that you want to move on it’s almost guaranteed that you can get your purchase price back if you sell it.
I bought my 470 for 11k and financed it for 24 months instead of the 60+ months so many around me were doing on new $50K+ trucks. When I paid it off I realized I hadn’t lost a dime, whereas most of those ther guys loose 20k+ on those deals.
In my opinion buying an older well maintained reliable cruiser is a great purchase. Actually a very smart purchase.

 

[newbie001]

I think it’s hard to go wrong with a Cruiser that’s been well maintained.
If you maintain it yourself and decide in a year or two that you want to move on it’s almost guaranteed that you can get your purchase price back if you sell it.
I bought my 470 for 11k and financed it for 24 months instead of the 60+ months so many around me were doing on new $50K+ trucks. When I paid it off I realized I hadn’t lost a dime, whereas most of those ther guys loose 20k+ on those deals.
In my opinion buying an older well maintained reliable cruiser is a great purchase. Actually a very smart purchase.

Yea this one is a one owner car with a full service history. Timing belt replaced at 100k. Minimal rust on one of the fenders. Interior is rip free. Heated seats, nav, sun roof, cruise control. 160k miles and only 10k

 

[MongooseGA]

Seeing your location... Check the underside for rust. Definitely.

These trucks aren't tricky to work on. If you've got dad/in law to help, that should be sufficient.

 

[newbie001]

Seeing your location... Check the underside for rust. Definitely.

These trucks aren't tricky to work on. If you've got dad/in law to help, that should be sufficient.

The dealer said there is a little rust on the passenger side fender. which isnt bad right?

 

[hickuptruck]

So you see rust on the fender? Well that means the underside isn't looking hot/good at all. That's where you want to be looking for rust, fender rust is just cosmetic. Underside rust is structural.

And if you need to be financing $2k for a purchase, what happens when you're hit with an unexpected $1k+ repair? Say you need new CVs or a steering rack ?

It's an IL LC for $11k, not a 5 spd, and just overpriced.

 

[hickuptruck]

The dealer said there is a little rust on the passenger side fender. which isnt bad right?

That's bad. Means the 99% chances probably underside is *hit.

 

[newbie001]

So you see rust on the fender? Well that means the underside isn't looking hot/good at all. That's where you want to be looking for rust, fender rust is just cosmetic. Underside rust is structural.

And if you need to be financing $2k for a purchase, what happens when you're hit with an unexpected $1k+ repair? Say you need new CVs or a steering rack ?

It's an IL LC for $11k, not a 5 spd, and just overpriced.

Well i havent seen it yet. The dealer said thats the only bit of rust but ill verify it on friday. They sell it for 10k, is that high for the model?

 

[MongooseGA]

These trucks have a tendency to rust in snowy regions. If you're new to wrenching, you're absolutely not going to want to start out on a rusty truck.

Or maybe you do, and end up being a better mechanic from it. Dunno. I do a lot of my own work and I sure as hell wouldn't want to touch a rusted out truck.

Well i havent seen it yet. The dealer said thats the only bit of rust but ill verify it on friday. They sell it for 10k, is that high for the model?

FWIW, I paid $11K with brand new timing and radiator (done at my request) for my '05 LX470. Higher miles at 215k, but the updated 5-speed transmission vs 4-speed, huge stack of maintenance records from the dealer that sold it new, and zero rust. Mileage isn't too important. Maintenance and a solid, rust free underside are. If there's rust anywhere on the top side, it's highly likely the underside is rough. If it looks like it's recently been painted black, ask yourself (and the dealer) why.

 

[ga12r1]

Speaking of a bad investment. A young guy fresh out of college just pulled up at my work. A new insurance salesman.
He’s driving a new F150 Lariot on new 35” Toyo Mts. Probably paying close to 1k a month for 60 months.
That my friend is a bad investment. Unfortunately it’s the norm in my neck of the woods. Insanity. SMH.

 

[newbie001]

Speaking of a bad investment. A young guy fresh out of college just pulled up at my work. A new insurance salesman.
He’s driving a new F150 Lariot on new 35” Toyo Mts. Probably paying close to 1k a month for 60 months.
That my friend is a bad investment. Unfortunately it’s the norm in my neck of the woods. Insanity. SMH.

View attachment 1960971

Yea i would never make a decision like that. I may be young but im not dumb hahahha

 

[newbie001]

These trucks have a tendency to rust in snowy regions. If you're new to wrenching, you're absolutely not going to want to start out on a rusty truck.

Or maybe you do, and end up being a better mechanic from it. Dunno. I do a lot of my own work and I sure as hell wouldn't want to touch a rusted out truck.

But if the rig has minimal rust its a good buy? I have yet to check myself but will on friday

 

[roma042987]

I'm going to go out on a limb here but the 100 series are quiet possibly some of the most expensive cruisers to maintain. If you can do the work yourself then obviously that makes it more reasonable but if you have to pay someone then you'll really incur some costs. I've went through three relatively recently and probably every 100-130k miles you will want to budget for these big ticket items at minimum.

Timing belt along with all the bells and whistles fan bracket etc
Coils
Starter
Steering rack, steering column, and tie rods
Brake master/booster
Cv axles
Driver window switch
Radiator

I'd be willing to bet every 100 over 130k miles has either had those items replaced or needs them replaced.

If it has rust on the outside like a fender I'm sure the undercarriage is toast.

 

[MongooseGA]

But if the rig has minimal rust its a good buy? I have yet to check myself but will on friday

I think it could be, depending on general condition and what maintenance has been done.

The last LC I bought before my LX, I paid $8K for it with 230k miles needing a manifold gasket and timing. I had my indy do the work as it was my busy and profitable season, and had a nearly $6K bill for everything I wanted done. Some of it wasn't immediately necessary but I wasn't going to piece it together. I didn't do anything extreme, either (well, besides $1200 labor to install headers...)

 

[92LXAZ]

But if the rig has minimal rust its a good buy? I have yet to check myself but will on friday

Shop around. Not necessarily that you won't buy this one but to compare prices. Many stories here of guys looking and waiting for months to find the right one (myself included with the '06 we had). Again this may be it, but search for comparables. Prices vary regionally.

Our 570 I bought with a known cracked radiator and unknown frozen/rusted lower control arm bolts (couldn't get it aligned needed new arms). But I got such a good deal on it I was still ahead.

 

[newbie001]

Shop around. Not necessarily that you won't buy this one but to compare prices. Many stories here of guys looking and waiting for months to find the right one (myself included with our first oneP. Again this may be it, but search for comparables. Prices vary regionally.

Our 570 I bought with a known cracked radiator and unknown frozen/rusted lower control arm bolts (couldn't get it aligned needed new arms). But I got such a good deal on it I was still ahead.

Yea ive been searching around for a few weeks, Looking at 80s and 100s. Found a super nice JDM diesel in Chicago with 118k miles for 13k. But the RHD is kinda a deal breaker

 

[hickuptruck]

I'm going to go out on a limb here but the 100 series are quiet possibly some of the most expensive cruisers to maintain. If you can do the work yourself then obviously that makes it more reasonable but if you have to pay someone then you'll really incur some costs. I've went through three relatively recently and probably every 100-130k you will want to budget for these big ticker items at minimum.

Timing belt along with all the bells and whistles fan bracket etc
Starter
Steering rack, steering column, and tie rods
Brake master/booster
Cv axles
Driver window switch
Radiator

I'd be willing to bet every 100 over 130k miles has either had those items replaced or needs them replaced.

Yup. Like clockwork for these 100s for every 130-200k.

You said timing belt was done at 100k. Well at 190k, which is in 30k, you're due for another one.

Would not recommend a Cruiser 100 as a first car to wrench on. Just getting to the front brake rotors are something more complicated than 80% on regular everyday cars.

Also, with LC 100s, they're finnicky on aftermarket parts. Well that means OEM parts and they sure aren't as cheap as Tahoe/Suburban/F150 parts.

It sounds like with all the advice so far, your heart is still telling you that you want one. Go for it, but don't complain when the price of OEM parts + 12mpg + expensive repairs that come inherently with a 20 yr old car brings.

 

[1NTRANSIT]

Timing belt along with all the bells and whistles fan bracket etc
Starter
Steering rack, steering column, and tie rods
Brake master/booster
Cv axles
Driver window switch
Radiator

I'd be willing to bet every 100 over 130k miles has either had those items replaced or needs them replaced.

Did your 100 really need all of these repairs by 130k?

 

[newbie001]

Yup. Like clockwork for these 100s for every 130-200k.

You said timing belt was done at 100k. Well at 190k, which is in 30k, you're due for another one.

Would not recommend a Cruiser 100 as a first car to wrench on. Just getting to the front brake rotors are something more complicated than 80% on regular everyday cars.

Also, with LC 100s, they're finnicky on aftermarket parts. Well that means OEM parts and they sure aren't as cheap as Tahoe/Suburban/F150 parts.

It sounds like with all the advice so far, your heart is still telling you that you want one. Go for it, but don't complain when the price of OEM parts + 12mpg + expensive repairs that come inherently with a 20 yr old car brings.

Do you have some recommendations for other kinds of SUVs to look at? I am not dead set on buying this specific rig.

 

[ga12r1]

I would not buy any rust. It will only lead to headaches and heartaches.

 

[hickuptruck]

Yea ive been searching around for a few weeks, Looking at 80s and 100s. Found a super nice JDM diesel in Chicago with 118k miles for 13k. But the RHD is kinda a deal breaker

Well also the fact it's a diesel 80 series and you're not mechanically inclined. Parts aren't readily available and shops will charge you a premium to work on it, unless you find a speciality one. Some shops might flat out refuse to work on it as parts have to come from Middle east or Japan.