Noisy fuel injectors (1 Viewer)

[ColoradoBoy]

I have an '89 Toyota pickup truck 3VZE. I just dropped a new motor in it last fall, and did a lot of extra work, such as sending the fuel injectors out for testing/cleaning. This truck always had loud injectors, but the newly cleaned injectors seem to be quite noisy. I am attempting to make the interior quieter via noise reduction applications; Kilmat has beed installed extensively in the cab so far, making a big difference. Are there any materials/methods that anyone has used to dampen the fuel injector noise? I'm thinking along the lines of wrapping the injector rails & tubes (aluminum) to try and get some relief. My concern is the underhood heat. (?) Not wanting to add anything that will get hot and 'melt' off. My searches have not produced any viable options so far.

I need to get into the dash to hook up new stereo equipment and replace my VSS soon, so I will be applying more deadener products to the interior of the firewall as can be accessed during that work.

If anyone has some info to pass along that might help, it would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

 

[toyotaboy80]

Seems strange that the injectors would be that noisy. Is it the injectors for sure or valve train?

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Brand new rebuilt motor (less than 10k now) from Yoya1 Performance. Initially, I thought valve train, too. I was listening to exhaust manifold, thinking it was exhaust valves (old motor). After sending the injectors out for test/clean & re-install during swap, noisier than ever. Everything is running well, so this is the road I think I need to go down to address it.

 

[toyotaboy80]

I'd look into DEI aluminized sleeving heat sheath or something similar. Not sure if it will dampen noise, but it shouldnt melt in the intake valley.

Did you have the exhaust manifolds resurfaced and/or check them for cracks? Leaking or cracked manifolds could make that type of noise.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

I'd look into DEI aluminized sleeving heat sheath or something similar. Not sure if it will dampen noise, but it shouldnt melt in the intake valley.

Did you have the exhaust manifolds resurfaced and/or check them for cracks? Leaking or cracked manifolds could make that type of noise.

Yota-1 Performance long block assy. All machining and checks done at their rebuild facility. I'm reasonably certain all is well with the rebuilt motor. The DEI products seem like the way to go.
Thanks!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Got a cheap mechanic's stethoscope; sounds like the valves @ cylinder 3 (back of motor, next to exhaust on driver side) are loose. This noise is what I have been hearing. Makes, sense- the noise is probably amplified via the exhaust pipes, since they are so close. Frusterating, being a new build. Now I need to learn about valve adjustments!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

On another note....

Had an incident on icy roads a few weeks back. Fishtail city! Didn't lose it (completely), but careened off of the opposite side of the road before regaining control. Afterwards, the speedometer stopped working & got the code 42. Trying to figure out if there is a test one can perform using a volt meter for the sensor. I have the gauge cluster out. Truck runs fine, but no speedometer/odometer operation. Will be going out shortly to check cable operation as it gets warmer today.
@pappy, any ideas or suggestions?

Per the FSM, the CEL shows up exactly as noted. My understanding at this point is:

1. The cable got bound up
2. The VSS (attached to the back of the speedometer) is shot (would love to know how to test!)
3. The ECU lost a connection (wire harness) or some other electrical issue within the ECU

Anyone that has had experience with this, I would sure appreciate some input.

Thanks!

 

[pappy]

Truck runs fine, but no speedometer/odometer operation. Will be going out shortly to check cable operation as it gets warmer today.
@pappy, any ideas or suggestions?

Sorry, I'm not that familiar with the 3VZ. If you have a speedo cable I would start there. On the 22RE the cable passes past the exhaust manifold and get cooked.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Sorry, I'm not that familiar with the 3VZ. If you have a speedo cable I would start there. On the 22RE the cable passes past the exhaust manifold and get cooked.

Thank you!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Ha! If it was a snake, I would have been bitten. Testing the VSS:
FSM: Body Electrical System, BE-28 & 29.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

VSS is good per FSM test.

Speedometer cable broke 4" away from transmission. Junkyard searching I go. Unless...

I could scavenge the cable from my '95 4Runner(?) Anyone know if they are the same length? Seems like with the same motor and transmission, it would be a match. Any confirmations?

Thanks!

 

[88repo]

VSS is good per FSM test.

Speedometer cable broke 4" away from transmission. Junkyard searching I go. Unless...

I could scavenge the cable from my '95 4Runner(?) Anyone know if they are the same length? Seems like with the same motor and transmission, it would be a match. Any confirmations?

Thanks!

If I'm not mistaken, speedo's went electronic somewhere '92 to '94 I thought?

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Speedometer cable broke 4" away from transmission.

Looks like I may still be able to get a new OEM. I'll look into it tomorrow. If so, that's that!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

If I'm not mistaken, speedo's went electronic somewhere '92 to '94 I thought?

Maybe. My 89 has a mechanical cable from transmission to back of speedo; speedo has VSS built into the back of it. Broken cable = no speedo/odo. This may be why people get confused. I believe that the signal generated from the VSS works with the cruise control, which is also not working after my mishap and resulting code 42. Pretty sure a new cable will solve everything.

 

[88repo]

Does your '95 runner have a cable?

No doubt the '89 has one.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Does your '95 runner have a cable?

No doubt the '89 has one.

The '95 4R does have a cable, same setup as pickup. 150R manual transmission & 3VZE motor.
Speedo cable still available from Mr. T, so ordered a new one. (83710-35490)