No Spark after Coil (2 Viewers)

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Good afternoon. I recently got for restoration a 1977 FJ40 2f. I decide to take the body out to repaint the frame etc. I did also remove the wiring. Now I'm trying to turn on the engine directly from the starter but it will not start. I can not get any spark from the coil into the distributor and as such nothing to the spark plugs. I have changed the coil, the ballast resistor, the distributor cap, the point, rotor. and wiring. I'm totally lost, not sure what I'm missing. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
You seem to keep on doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. You need to check components one step a time.

1. Remove all wires at the coil except the center spark wire. Place this about 6mm from the engine block.
2. Run a new wire from battery + to coil +
3. Connect another wire to battery -. Then momentarily touch the - lug of the coil and check for spark.

If you get a spark, then you know the coil is good and you can move on to the next component test.

Don’t worry about whether the coil has a ballast resistor or not for now. It won’t make a significant difference.
You are absolutely right. I'm making the same mistake all over but can't see where. I did what you clearly explained to me, but I can't get a spark. I did it with 3 different coils and can't get the spark. Can be that these 3 coils are all broken? Turning on an engine on the floor is supposed to be so simple.... I'm going to buy another 12v coil today and check again.

Thank you
 
If you are doing the test properly with constant power to the +side and switching on and off the connection to the - side of the coil and you can’t get a spark to jump a 6mm gap to ground, then the coils may be bad. I think the chances of them being bad are extremely unlikely.
 
Thank everyone. Finally found the problem. Basically 2:
1. Not proper insulation between the negative coil and the distributor case.
2. The battery was probably not too strong.

Anyways is alive again but not out of intensive care yet.
 
Thank everyone. Finally found the problem. Basically 2:
1. Not proper insulation between the negative coil and the distributor case.
2. The battery was probably not too strong.

Anyways is alive again but not out of intensive care yet.
Wouldn't you have found spark before if you followed @Pin_Head 's instructions above and the marked up diagram in post #13?

A ground in the negative wire to the points wouldn't have any impact if the test had been made as recommended.
 
There were multiple posts about the - coil wire grounding out b4 getting to the points.
 

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