No power at high RPM

[2001LC]

Not sure how easy it is to disconnect the MAF.
I tried when I was cleaning the sensor, but it didn't bulge.
I am in Tapping.

It's easy to disconnect the MAF Meter from the Connector (wire-harness plug housing), if that’s what your referring to:

Place a wide-blade screwdriver between top center of MAF Meter & Connector housing. Gently pry by twisting blade back and forth, while holding-down back of connector release clip. Once connector is disconnected remove the two screws and gently pry-up MAF Meter working around sides to removed ..... being gentle is key …. do not force and avoid edges of connector plug area.

Here just one more thing I didn't no and don’t know why?

The FSM states: under Inspect MAF Meter; (b) Inspect for operation; (7) Disconnect the negative (-) terminal cable from battery.

Is this to protect from surge or possible to reset?

 

[2001LC]

Don't be concerned about that, its actually saying 2nd gear = NO, ie you're not in second gear. My 03 version reports the status of all gears, CDL, snow start, power/normal etc. Your tech stream is reporting correctly.

The potential cam timing issue is definitely worth following. Would explain a lot and possibly account for your idle timing being 8 degrees and not more advanced, maybe the knock sensor is kicking in to retard timing to the point of pre ignition like its suppose to? I'll get some screen shots for comparison asap.

I've got to get me a scan tool, and learn this stuff. I'm still back in the sixties & seventies technically speaking.

Let me ask; what should his IGN Advance read under load?

Wouldn't you think he'd see a check engine (code) if belt jumped or sensor malfunction?

 

[Wilsil]

Place a wide-blade screwdriver between top center of MAF Meter & Connector housing. Gently pry by twisting blade back and forth, while holding-down back of connector release clip.

And that is just the problem.
Have you ever tried it with ONE hand?
I know that you guys can't see it, but I have only the use of one arm/hand. So doingthis is a bit difficult.

LX470, I have the mini-VCI so I am good.

 

[LX470 AUS]

So, hopefully good news... I got up at 5am this morning and pulled off the cam covers. I turned the crank two revolutions and lined it up to 0' TDC. At first when i looked at the cam pulleys i thought they looked all good and lined up with the indicator marks. Then i realised that they had been set to line up with the "T" marks on the engine, not the actual proper timing marks! The difference between the "T" mark and the proper mark is about 2 teeth. So some knob has rookied it and set the timing to about 10 degrees out.
Both cams were the same, lining up perfectly with the wrong mark. I know it hasn't slipped the teeth to end up here because the person has marked the cam pulley and the "T" with a dot of yellow paint to make it clear.
I just cant believe it has been driven around for 50,000 kms like this! Hopefully that hasnt caused any valve damage?
I took it straight away to the dealership to get overcharged for replacing it. I thought about just re-adjusting it, but then started thinking, if the person screwed that up, they probably didnt change the water pump etc.. So im getting the TB and water pump done today. Peace of mind!
Im guessing this is the cause of my lack of power and poor fuel economy.
Ill let you know when i get it back.

 

[LX470 AUS]

Aparently the water pump, idler pulley bearings and tensioner bearing are all original, so they have done over 210,000 kms. They are being replaced.
Question: what are those "T" markings? Seems odd to have them so close to the indicator marks.

 

[Wilsil]

Is the correct mark left of the "T"?

 

[LX470 AUS]

Yes, according to the service manual.

 

[LX470 AUS]

 

[OregonLC]

This is what correct timing looks like.

 

[2001LC]

Congratulation, and I agree do all parts now. If the budget will allow; I'd have shop check compression while they're working on it, they can also scope valves & pistons tops for you.

So the PO did drive around for 50,000 Kms getting 10 mpg. Apparently PO got so sick of this LX millage, he bought LPG vehicle. I'm curious; did you get a good price for this LX?

Hey, that wire in first pictures; is that for that aftermarket temp gauge?

I still recommend going thru components looking for anything that looks like PO changed. Bring back to factory spec, OEM parts where important.

 

[2001LC]

OregonLC, I can't remember what "T" marks are for, do you know?

 

[OregonLC]

OregonLC, I can't remember what "T" marks are for, do you know?

Toyota maybe? I don't remember seeing them in the FSM.

There's also frequent postings here about the timing belt job being done at 50 degrees rather than at 0 degrees. Not shown in my FSM and not necessary as far as I can tell.

 

[2001LC]

The cams turn (snap to) when T-belt released, this is do to valve spring tension. IIRC FSM recommends; turn cams clockwise to certain point before removing T-belt, so not to damage valves. Which from what we've learned from broken T-belts report in mud (at-least non VVTi) is not really and issue. Maybe the "T" mark is that point.

Yep, I'll bet many have wrongly assumed "T" for timing mark. Can you imagine the poor PO driving like this for 50,000 KM.

 

[OregonLC]

The cams turn (snap to) when T-belt released, this is do to valve spring tension. IIRC FSM recommends; turn cams clockwise to certain point before removing T-belt, so not to damage valves. Which from what we've learned from broken T-belts report in mud (at-least non VVTi) is not really and issue. Maybe the "T" mark is that point.

That is not a true statement. Have you ever done the job? The cams neither turn on their own to release tension nor does the (2004) FSM have you do anything other than set TDC. The FSM has you set everything to TDC, remove the tensioner, and then remove the belt. No other turning is required. In fact, in bold it states"do not turn the crankshaft pulley' after you've determined it is at TDC.

 

[marques]

OregonLC, I can't remember what "T" marks are for, do you know?

Those are the alternate timing marks for replacing the timing belt with none of the pistons at TDC... There is a corresponding mark for the crank. If a cam slips during belt replacement, valves won't hit pistons.

Looks like whoever changed the belt didn't bother to check the cam timing before they took the belt off and just assumed the "T" marks corresponded to TDC (they don't). It's the "|" marks that line up with the crank at TDC.

 

[OregonLC]

Makes no sense. If you can hit the one you can hit the other. I can't see them putting secondary marks just to give the mechanic choices. Does your FSM reference those marks?

 

[2001LC]

2001 LC fsm & 2002 lx is300

Yes I have and as I said IIRC, I do remember cam turning on it's own but not sure which job it was. Take a look at what I found; interesting the 2004 was written differently than 2001 FSM see: (c) and Note in first picture. Think Mr. Toyota realized this is not interference engine after 2001, would be interesting to compare with 2005 VVT engine FSM. Also see the second picture is from LX 2002 IS300 which I did TB more recently on.
2001 LC FSM

2002 LX IS300 FSM

 

[OregonLC]

Interesting. At what point do they have you roll it back to TDC to align the marks?

So did your cams rotate on their own off of the mark? Mine were rock solid on my 2000.

Beno: Were there any changes to the heads or short block from 2001 to 2004 that would necessitate the change in FSM language?

 

[2001LC]

The FSM goes step by step and I really don't remember which or if both vehicle cams moved on their own. I do remember it felt like spring tension spinning it, which is actually pressure from valve spring pushing top of valve stem on lob of cam hunting for flat spot with less resistance. Hope I made senses with my poor writing skills

 

[Throttle Crazy]

I had a feeling this would be the issue. Way to stay after the problem and get it resolved. Now your Cruiser will feel like a race car for awhile.