No power at high RPM

[LX470 AUS]

Yes, Its not the cheapest way to end the problem, but I dont really care, I'm just happy to have found the problem.
Yes I got a pretty good deal on the LX, around $8K cheaper than any others with similar Kms in WA. Cars are quite a bit more expensive over here than in the US. I have owned a few cars in North America, I love how cheap they are, and so many to choose from.
Yes that wire is for the aftermarket coolant temp gauge. See this thread for info:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/779103-uzj100r-temperature-gauge-faulty.html

I wonder how many others have had the timing set to these "T" marks. Its strange that the PO didn't realise that there must have been something wrong after getting it back from having it changed.
How many kms do the pulley bearings and water pump normally last? I would say at 210k, they would be getting close to their life.
So are you saying that before 2004, these are non-interference engines?

 

[marques]

If you are going by the "T" marks, you stay on those until after you put the new belt on, re-engage the tensioner, put the lower cover with the crank marks back on, and put the crank trigger wheel and damper back on (don't torque it just yet). Only then do you rotate the crank >2 revolutions by hand and stop at the TDC marks to verify timing... if everything still looks good, then you proceed with putting everything back together.

Interesting. At what point do they have you roll it back to TDC to align the marks?

 

[OGBeno]

Beno: Were there any changes to the heads or short block from 2001 to 2004 that would necessitate the change in FSM language?

There was a part number change for the block in 10/2001 and remained the same till 5/2005.

What that change was to assign the block a different PN, I have no idea.

There were a few changes in the part numbers for the heads, but those supersessions seemed to happen pretty quickly from 1998-2005.

 

[2001LC]

Yes, Its not the cheapest way to end the problem, but I dont really care, I'm just happy to have found the problem.
Yes I got a pretty good deal on the LX, around $8K cheaper than any others with similar Kms in WA. Cars are quite a bit more expensive over here than in the US. I have owned a few cars in North America, I love how cheap they are, and so many to choose from.
Yes that wire is for the aftermarket coolant temp gauge. See this thread for info:
****
I wonder how many others have had the timing set to these "T" marks. Its strange that the PO didn't realise that there must have been something wrong after getting it back from having it changed.
How many kms do the pulley bearings and water pump normally last? I would say at 210k, they would be getting close to their life.
So are you saying that before 2004, these are non-interference engines?

I bet you're happy and you should pat yourself on the back, good job.

I had no Idea of the markup you guy's are paying down-under. I saw one guy here recently get a 2005 LX for $6,000 US, then another just paid $30,000 only difference was miles on odometer.

The PO probable did TB himself and was chasing ghost for last 50K, rarely driving hard enough to get into higher rpm. This why I keep posting: inspect parts, checking part # of any component PO may have replaced and get back to original factory state. The T-Belt and after-market gauge are really not a good sign of PO's mechanical abilities, and show he gave little consideration to OEM parts or what FSM recommended.

OregonLC, mentioned a few post back, others threads in mud talking about this very issue of time belt off x degrees. 50k Km is a long time maybe other thread could shed light on ancillary damage if any.

I've heard of new OEM water pumps going after 20K miles, mine has 150K miles and still going. At ~90K I did change my TB along with idler & tensioner pulley's, as I could hear the slightness sound from bearings. I did not do seals, tensioner, water pump or thermostat as they spec out fine. Here is one more example; I changed my serpentine belt tension bearing with a $5 bearing from NAPA and replaced idler pulley with OEM bearing in it because I could nod fine just the bearing for that. OEM is now starting to chirp, but NAPA bearing sounds good. Note: I use my mechanics stethoscope to look for sounds.

Not saying these are non-interference engines pre or post 2004, but if you go through a few recent thread on the issue of T-belts breaking under load (on HWY): none have had damage. They were all pre VVTi engine's, which VVT was introduce in 2005 IIRC.


I'm posting the below because of your temp gauge issue:
Your intake manifold may be different I don't know, it is my understanding a change was made to manifold thermostat click on this link: see 2UZ-FE Intake Manifold at the bottom RobRed put a link to some really great document he's put together.

 

[LX470 AUS]

Yea even getting OEM parts from Toyota here is crazy. I was quoted $4700 AUD for a set of AHC spheres. I told the guy at the parts desk I could order an OEM set for 1/3 the price online, turns out I didnt need them in the end anyway.
The funny thing about it though, I bought my AHC fluid over the counter from Toyota at $21 a container (they are $40 + postage online)
The UZJ100 is holding its price here, the FZJ105R on the other hand, has dropped in price quite a bit in the last few years.
I think the temp gauge is faulty, I took the cluster off to have a look, but its pretty delicate and complicated in there. Dont want to touch anything. So for now I am living with the after market gauge. I dont like it, but it'll have to do.
As far as I know, the gauge sender only sends data to the gauge and nothing else - no input to the ECU.

 

[2001LC]

I only pointed to Temp gauge to illustrate PO screw stuff up, which I'm sure your painfully aware of.

That said: Looks like temp sensor(s) do send signal to ECM at least this by this flow chart:

 

[2001LC]

There was a part number change for the block in 10/2001 and remained the same till 5/2005.

What that change was to assign the block a different PN, I have no idea.

There were a few changes in the part numbers for the heads, but those supersessions seemed to happen pretty quickly from 1998-2005.

Exhaust manifold issue was seen up until what year?

 

[Actualeyes]

Here just one more thing I didn't no and don’t know why? The FSM states: under Inspect MAF Meter; (b) Inspect for operation; (7) Disconnect the negative (-) terminal cable from battery. Is this to protect from surge or possible to reset?

This is to reset the computer I think... Well whether it is for that reason or not it does. Allows it to relearn driving behavior...

 

[2001LC]

This is to reset the computer I think... Well whether it is for that reason or not it does. Allows it to relearn driving behavior...

This is what I'm thinking also. Probably not anything to do with risk of damaging MAF meter, by spike from battery current.

 

[LX470 AUS]

Would the coolant temp sensor referred to in this flow chart not be the one you have labeled "ECT sensor" in your photo above? This is the one sending info to the ECT. The other one just sends to the gauge.
I got the car back from the dealership, it drives like a Ferrari now! It seems to be a bit quieter and also runs a little cooler now. Ill do a fuel calc after the weekend. Although it might not be that great because i have been putting my foot down a bit (i took it away up north for the weekend), also i might be doing some dune and boggy sand beach driving (lancelin).
Thats everyone for all the help, i love it when a problem finaly gets nailed.
By the way, the cost was $2150 for:
Timing belt
Idler pulley bearings
Tensioner bearing
Water pump
New fan shroud (aparantly it was broken and had been glued together)
Top and bottom radiator hoses (i asked them to replace)
Coolant

How does this compare to US prices?

 

[CappyKD]

Would the coolant temp sensor referred to in this flow chart not be the one you have labeled "ECT sensor" in your photo above? This is the one sending info to the ECT. The other one just sends to the gauge.
I got the car back from the dealership, it drives like a Ferrari now! It seems to be a bit quieter and also runs a little cooler now. Ill do a fuel calc after the weekend. Although it might not be that great because i have been putting my foot down a bit (i took it away up north for the weekend), also i might be doing some dune and boggy sand beach driving (lancelin).
Thats everyone for all the help, i love it when a problem finaly gets nailed.
By the way, the cost was $2150 for:
Timing belt
Idler pulley bearings
Tensioner bearing
Water pump
New fan shroud (aparantly it was broken and had been glued together)
Top and bottom radiator hoses (i asked them to replace)
Coolant

How does this compare to US prices?

Glad you got it resolved!

 

[LX470 AUS]

Thanks to everyone for the diagnostic help. Im really happy to have the car running nicely.

 

[2001LC]

Would the coolant temp sensor referred to in this flow chart not be the one you have labeled "ECT sensor" in your photo above? This is the one sending info to the ECT. The other one just sends to the gauge.
*******
By the way, the cost was $2150 for:
Timing belt
Idler pulley bearings
Tensioner bearing
Water pump
New fan shroud (aparantly it was broken and had been glued together)
Top and bottom radiator hoses (i asked them to replace)
Coolant

How does this compare to US prices?

I assume just by the names "water sender gauge" is to gauge and ECT (engine coolant temperature) is to ECM (engine control modular). In your picture I could only see the one after-market wire & sender gauge presumably. The factory temp gauge may indeed be defective, but I don't think that's common and do not no for sure if it only connects to gauge. Does you scan match you temp gauge?

A little pricey but about what I'd expect at LX dealer in your area. Here LX dealer they run about 30% more than Toyota dealer. Independent will do for ~$800 and throw-in seals, tensioner, thermostat and oil & filters.

I'd base-line, meaning change all gear lubes, oils, fluids and don't forget every 30K miles: wheel bearings, thrust bushing & needle bearings in wheel spindle. Grease propeller shafts ever oil change or daily when in sand.

 

[LX470 AUS]

Just an update, I have gone through two tanks of petrol since getting the timing belt done properly. My consumption is down to 15 L/100Kms (19MPG) on the highway.
Im pretty happy with that, its 25% better than before.
I guess it pays to have your valves opening and shutting at the right time!

 

[Wilsil]

that's a great figure.
I am averaging at 18l/100km with a mix of freeway and city driving. Throw in offroading and it goes up to 19l/100km.

 

[LX470 AUS]

Yea, 15 is purely open road, no city or off road. A combination of highway and beach got me 17.

 

[MdG]

I bought a 99 Lx470 a few months ago and had the exact same issue. PO installed timing belt 2 teeth out. This post has helped immensely. I also found a similar post in a tundra forum and he too tried everything before checking the timing. I just had my belt re-installed and a world of difference. Thanks!