No Power at all

[Mark W]

My jumper cables have a volt meter on them and it showed the same for my cruiser as my daily at 12.5

Cleaned them up with a tooth brush and paper towel the reattached so I don’t see how that could be the case.

Will get the battery checked tomorrow.

Thanks for the input! Good to know my electrical isn’t fried after getting it to turn over today

As just mentioned... 12v in and of itself proves nothing about your battery or your connections.

A tooth brush and paper rowel are definitely not in Toyota's "Special Tool" list. Dirty, oxidized, corroded surfaces between the post and the cable ends don't really give a s*** about toothbrushes and paper towels.

Wire brush, sand paper, steel wool will clean those surfaces bright and shiny. THAT is wnat you need. Also check to see if the surfaces are badly pitted. A bit of hydrogen peroxide from your first aid kit, or a bit of Coke from the bottle will eat away any crusty deposits too.

What sort of cable ends do you have? If you have those cheap parts store replacement ends that clamp onto the end of the cable... make damn sure that connection is good and is clean too.

This might not be your problem at all. But it is just about #1 on the things that you want to check before you dive deeper looking for other problems that might not even exist.




Mark...

 

[mbplace]

Even with no

As just mentioned... 12v in and of itself proves nothing about your battery or your connections.

A tooth brush and paper rowel are definitely not in Toyota's "Special Tool" list. dirty, oxidized, corroded surfaces between the post and the cable ends son't really give a s*** about toothbrushes and paper towels.

Wire brush, sand paper, steel wool will clean those surfaces bright and shiny. THAT is wnat you need. Also check to see if the surfaces are badly pitted. A bit of hydrogen peroxide from your first aid kit, or a bit of Coke from the bottle will eat away any crusty seposits too.

What sort of cable ends do you have? If you have those cheap parts store replacement ends that clamp onto the end of the cable... make damn sure that connection is good and is clean too.

This might nt be your problem at all. But it is just about #1 on the things that you want to check before you dive deeper looking for other problems that might not even exist.




Mark...

Battery is a little over a year old and the cables are not much older — no corrosion from what I could see - no pitting everything was very clean

 

[Mark W]

Even with no


Battery is a little over a year old and the cables are not much older — no corrosion from what I could see - no pitting everything was very clean

View attachment 3638192

Those certainly do not look suspect. Were the contact surfaces more grey or more black? Blackish indicates burnt material. Not unusual. Ideally you want to get then shiny and bright. This means that the oxidized outer layers have been removed (wire brush or sand paper) and that you definitely have good electrical contact.

Also make sure that the contact between the cable lugs and the battery clamp is good too.

Your negative cable end (clamp) is looking sad. Looks to be functional, but definitely stretched and not clamping like it could/should. Tightening more will eventually lead to it breaking. Throw both of those clamps away and get some brass ones. 100% better. and only a few bucks at the parts store or amazon.


Also, when checking battery voltage, place the probes on the cable ends, not the battery posts. Then check at the posts too. When a connection is really really bad, this will often show it.

Do you have absolutely zero electrical power to everything when the jumpers are not attached?


Mark...

 

[mbplace]

Those certainly do not look suspect. Were the contact surfaces more grey or more black? Blackish indicates burnt material. Not unusual. Ideally you want to get then shiny and bright. This means that the oxidized outer layers have been removed (wire brush or sand paper) and that you definitely have good electrical contact.

Also make sure that the contact between the cable lugs and the battery clamp is good too.

Your negative cable end (clamp) is looking sad. Looks to be functional, but definitely stretched and not clamping like it could/should. Tightening more will eventually lead to it breaking. Throw both of those clamps away and get some brass ones. 100% better. and only a few bucks at the parts store or amazon.


Also, when checking battery voltage, place the probes on the cable ends, not the battery posts. Then check at the posts too. When a connection is really really bad, this will often show it.

Do you have absolutely zero electrical power to everything when the jumpers are not attached?


Mark...

I would say zero (almost). Lights, radio - nothing works that requires any real power. When I hit the horn I get a little buzz noise but no beep

 

[Mark W]

I would say zero (almost). Lights, radio - nothing works that requires any real power. When I hit the horn I get a little buzz noise but no beep

So, you can get the micro-current (tiny amperage) that you need to work the voltmeter, but not enough current (amperage) to work anything else. Everything is still pointing to bad battery or bad connections.

Since you have not so far found it to be bad connections... pull the battery, take it to the nearest parts store and get it load tested. While you are there spend a couple bucks for a battery post brush. It is a pair of wire brushes that nest together when not being used. One is to clean the inside surface of the battery lamp. The other is to clean the outside surface of the post.

Mark...

 

[mbplace]

So, you can get the micro-current (tiny amperage) that you need to work the voltmeter, but not enough current (amperage) to work anything else. Everything is still pointing to bad battery or bad connections.

Since you have not so far found it to be bad connections... pull the battery, take it to the nearest parts store and get it load tested. While you are there spend a couple bucks for a battery post brush. It is a pair of wire brushes that nest together when not being used. One is to clean the inside surface of the battery lamp. The other is to clean the outside surface of the post.

Mark...

Thank you for joining me on this journey mark.

New connectors
Battery test (and potentially battery)
Battery brush

Will keep you updated

 

[charliemeyer007]

I like the NAPA spray battery terminal protector, they have a cleaner too but I just use baking soda in warm water and the brush.

 

[mbplace]

Latest update… battery was fried.

Replaced and most of my electrical seems to be working with the exception of the fuel pump and radio - lights, wipers, air, starter — all working.

Checked all of my fuses and they seem to be in good working order.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Disconnect your battery and pull the fuses and then clean the fuse contacts with like a 30 cal. bore brush. A little dielectric grease on the contacts (use a q-tip to barely wipe some on).

All the electrical connectors should be inspected and cleaned. You don't want to see any corrosion (green or white fluffy stuff). Spray contact cleaner, then small needle file or a say a tooth pick with emery paper, spray again to wash out the crud, little dielectric grease on the male tabs. Look at the wire where connectors are crimped on - corrosion can crawl up the wire under the insulation.

 

[pb4ugo]

Latest update… battery was fried.

Replaced and most of my electrical seems to be working with the exception of the fuel pump and radio - lights, wipers, air, starter — all working.

Checked all of my fuses and they seem to be in good working order.

It seems you got the stk wiring solved. The electric fuel pump isn't stk, is the radio aftermarket too? If so, those 2 items maybe wired separately. They're probably tied into a key ON circuit.

 

[45Dougal]

Latest update… battery was fried.

Replaced and most of my electrical seems to be working with the exception of the fuel pump and radio - lights, wipers, air, starter — all working.

Checked all of my fuses and they seem to be in good working order.

Next question is why was your battery fried?
One year old battery shouldn't be bad.
Check your alternator charge voltage (DC and AC just to be sure).

 

[mbplace]

Next question is why was your battery fried?
One year old battery shouldn't be bad.
Check your alternator charge voltage (DC and AC just to be sure).

Can’t get it to start due to fuel pump not running so I can’t test the charge voltage.. but I’d assume this could be a root cause as I’m not able to locate a voltage regulator in the wiring

 

[charliemeyer007]

Places like Autozone will test the alternator for free. Take it off and take it to the store. Write the numbers down. If they say its good ok, if they say its bad don't buy one from them. Wait until you test it with your rig running. The voltage regulator is on the engine side of the fire wall.

looks like this if stock 58-72 Land Cruiser FJ40 45 55 Voltage Regulator OEM - https://www.fjparts.com/58-72-land-cruiser-fj40-45-55-voltage-regulator-oem-p-413.html

 

[45Dougal]

Places like Autozone will test the alternator for free. Take it off and take it to the store. Write the numbers down. If they say its good ok, if they say its bad don't buy one from them. Wait until you test it with your rig running. The voltage regulator is on the engine side of the fire wall.

looks like this if stock 58-72 Land Cruiser FJ40 45 55 Voltage Regulator OEM - https://www.fjparts.com/58-72-land-cruiser-fj40-45-55-voltage-regulator-oem-p-413.html

The voltage regulator should be on the fire wall...but often isn't because alternators from this century have it built in - check which alternator you have

 

[charliemeyer007]

Exactly why to have it tested and write down the #'s. Also why I posted the pic of a stock VR so they would know what to look for.

 

[mbplace]

The voltage regulator should be on the fire wall...but often isn't because alternators from this century have it built in - check which alternator you have

Checked the part number — doesn’t appear to be internally regulated, looked to be original — chased the wire from the alternator and don’t see any kind of regulator, wire feeds directly into my dash

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think that's internally regulated 77 to 80 LC