NO (Low) Budget Lift

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Is it possible to run OME rear springs and a slee diff drop kit with standard Toyota torsion bars and Toyota shocks? Would I still get a lift of 1 to 2 inches?

I know this is a lame way to do a lift however I am not running front or rear bumpers and the only armor will be slee sliders.

Thoughts, pros and cons. Leave it rolling on worn out 145k mile suspension.

I have torsion bars and shocks removed from a 99 Cruiser with 60k miles. I was going to use those 4 shocks, the 2 torsion bars, the slee diff drop kit and OME Medium rear springs.

Fire suit on and ready to get railed for this low budget mod talk.
 
I don't see any problems with what you suggest. I did it two weeks ago. I had to re-index the front bars to get a total of 1.25 inches of front lift and it nicely matches the rear tire-to- fender spacing giving me about 1/2 inch of rake with my airbags helping out in the rear. I still have about 2.5 inches of droop with the Bilstein shocks I'm running. I built a custom diff drop bracket that lowered everything by .75 inches up front.

Best of all, I did it without the wife noticing the new "lift".

The only downsides are that you will need a new alignment and I will need to re-seal the small side of my CV boots.

Adam
 
I ran stock shocks after installing 865's and cranking up my stock T-bars for almost 30K miles. I installed Billstiens and found them shorter than stock.
You shouldn't have a problem IMO.
 
You might bottom out the OEM shocks on both ends. Can cause damage on compression and limit travel on extension.


Lifting by springs alone won't cause any damage. The problems come when you start changing to shocks with different compression/extension specs. Then you have to start fooling with bump stops and limiting straps etc. If retaining OEM shocks, the only thing you've done is lower the starting point of the suspension arms in their arc of travel. Ultimate travel is still determined by the shock and bump stops and hasn't changed in this case.
 
I am planning to do the same with OME 866's(heavy) as well. So does this means I am just doing a half job here...what is the height diffrence between stock shocks and OME shocks and does it matter..
 
The OME lift kit isn't 'that' expensive, why do it half assed ? If you cannot afford to do it all at once, just wait til you can and do it right. No, I don't have a lift on mine yet - because I am waiting so I can do it right.
 
Factory bumpers?

DO IT!

I'd slap it up about 2-2.75" and be done. The factory T-bars will provide the "easiest flex" of any other setup as the suspension is softer. Travel is fine as you've just changed the up vs down ratio.

If you opt for 2.75" then add 20mm a trim packs in the rear and slap on 35's even.

why do it half assed ?

It's not half-assed. If there's little added weight to the vehicle then the stock suspension is sufficient. Wait until you see a stock-front-bumpered 100 travel vs the same rig with HD T-bars. The stock bars allow for much easier up-travel in the twisties. The HD bars fight it, especially without a heavy bumpers on there.
 
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So standard shocks and t-bars and OME 865 springs and slee drop kit and I will be good to go. The only armor will be sliders.
 
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Looks like we both are on the same boat and should be able to do it. I already have slee sliders and I am going with 866(heavy but same spring height) since I pull a 4500lb popup camper very often..

Thanks Shotts ..
 
So standard shocks and t-bars and OME 865 springs and slee drop kit and I will be good to go. The only armor will be slee sliders.

That's basically a stock-weighted vehicle. Should ride like a champ. Might be a little "swingy" over uneven bumps on trail runs, BUT....no jarring over the rocks...smooth....and easy front articulation. Nice!
 
And realize, you're loading the t-bars and they will loose their spring. Not overnight, but sooner.

Not the case. If it were, all of us adding lift via the bars would have sagging bars. Mine today are the same height they were 7 years ago.

He's not adding weight and therefore he is fine.
 
Half assed??? Like Shotts said, bumping up a nearly stock 100 with the factory T-bars is not a problem. I have noticed zero change in the handling or performance of our 100.

Also, since I was able to fabricate/modify the stock front diff cross member, I only have about $15 into my lift and until I move to bigger tires or heavier bumpers, it should work just fine.

Adam
 
Half assed??? Like Shotts said, bumping up a nearly stock 100 with the factory T-bars is not a problem. I have noticed zero change in the handling or performance of our 100.

Also, since I was able to fabricate/modify the stock front diff cross member, I only have about $15 into my lift and until I move to bigger tires or heavier bumpers, it should work just fine.

Adam

$15? You got ripped off! :D
 
Not the case. If it were, all of us adding lift via the bars would have sagging bars. Mine today are the same height they were 7 years ago.

He's not adding weight and therefore he is fine.

It's simple physics. You're increasing the wound spring load on the bar, they can't stay that way forever. Just like leaf and coil springs sag over time, so will a torsion bar. Take a metalurgy class sometime and you'll learn all about it.

Also, if it's not a concern, why is he installing bars from a lower mile truck? Further, if they don't change, why is it a standard part of the Toyota alignment service to adjust the torsion bars bringing the vehicle back to factory stance?

They will loose their spring. Like I said, not overnight, but over time. :rolleyes:
 
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think i should crank my t-bars a little to help the AHC? Its been 8 years, they gotta be a little tired by now.
 
Not worth it......................

Not worth what, admitting you're wrong? A spring is bound (ha) by physics, unless you got those one in a million "Shotts-only" special springs that don't have to obey those laws.

The springs probably just realize who you are and don't dare to sag.
 

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