No logic 12V power to starter??? (1 Viewer)

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First post!

I just recently purchased a '97 Collectors Edition (no diff locks tho...), and it would not start (no solenoid click at all) so I could get it home. After towing it back and cruising around this forum, I found the no start troubleshooting guide and was working through it. The PO thought it was a bad starter, so I purchased a new Denso starter immediately thinking it would be a simple fix. Well, still not even a solenoid click when the key is turned. (I hear what I think is the ABS relay click, but that's it.)

Replaced the fusible link, even though a continuity check on the old one was ok.

Checked the NSS connector, it does not look corroded at all, so I like to think I could eliminate that.

Did my best to clean the ground connection from the neg terminal to the block.

I checked the 50A AM1 fuse and the 15A EFI fuse according to the guide. Took a meter to the connection directly from the positive terminal on the battery and I have 12V, however I don't get 12V from the logic connector when the key is turned. I got it started by jumping the 12V post to the logic connector with a piece of wire, so I know she runs, so the key on logic 12V is definitely is my issue, could it be the ignition switch? Cant seem to find any info on the electrical path for that. I wanted to toss this one out there before I spent the $ on a new switch.

Any help troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!!
 
Did you clean the NSS with some electrical contact cleaner? You can download the Toyota FSM electrical manual for free in the resource section so you can see the circuit path. Sounds like you got the right idea. The ignition switch has been a fix for this. The NSS also can be adjusted slightly and that has fixed this issue for people before also. There is a bolt you can loosen and rotate the NSS.
 
Does it have a factory/dealer alarm system? They are usually under the driver's seat with a giant mess of a wiring harness under the driver side kick panel. If I encounter one, I remove it. Just unplug everything then plug all the factory wiring back together.
 
Did you clean the NSS with some electrical contact cleaner? You can download the Toyota FSM electrical manual for free in the resource section so you can see the circuit path. Sounds like you got the right idea. The ignition switch has been a fix for this. The NSS also can be adjusted slightly and that has fixed this issue for people before also. There is a bolt you can loosen and rotate the NSS.
How do I know if I need to adjust the NSS? Trying to start while wiggling the gear selector doesn't help. Also, should I pull off the NSS to clean it?
 
Does it have a factory/dealer alarm system? They are usually under the driver's seat with a giant mess of a wiring harness under the driver side kick panel. If I encounter one, I remove it. Just unplug everything then plug all the factory wiring back together.
Cool, I will check this out as well!
 
As a test, run a wire directly from the positive of the battery down to your starter solenoid (just as if you were trying to hot wire it), if it starts you have narrowed it to either wiring or the switch where you put the key.

Also do a continuity check from the ignition down to the solenoid on the stater, just to see if there is a break in the wiring.
 
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How do I know if I need to adjust the NSS? Trying to start while wiggling the gear selector doesn't help. Also, should I pull off the NSS to clean it?
Download the FSM and follow the procedure.
 
If you're dealing with a bad connection somewhere and just don't want to jump into deep book learning to figure it out hop down to Harbor Freight and pick up one of these wire trackers for $15. Hook it to the starter wire and follow it back until the tone stops. When it stops that's your problem.
 
NSS is a good place to start. Mine had the bolt vibrate loose and I would get nothing once in awhile when turning the key. See thread below. There are some noted wires/terminals in the NSS which tend to go bad frequently and may need to be replaced.

There is an image of the NSS adjustment from the FSM in may last post in this thread.

 
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Cheezus

Here is some more info for you, i just went through this problem, below you'll find a few links to possible solutions to your non starting problem,
 
Cant seem to find any info on the electrical path for that. I wanted to toss this one out there before I spent the $ on a new switch.

Any help troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!!
The logic for the starter circuit is pretty simple on these trucks in stock form:
FL AM1/Fuse AM1/ignition switch/neutral start switch/starter solenoid.
Nothing else effects that circuit. The motor side of the starter is connected directly to the battery positive terminal.
The above assumes no alarm cut-off.
 
Thanks for all of the ideas! As soon as the weather clears out ill go figure it out!
 
After much troubleshooting, I pulled out the drivers seat and found the infamous factory alarm system. Spent a couple hours pulling it all out, connected everything back together and voila!!!!! She starts right up! Thanks to PIP for the suggestion! Not sure what about the alarm system was bad though.
 
As a test, run a wire directly from the positive of the battery down to your starter solenoid (just as if you were trying to hot wire it), if it starts you have narrowed it to either wiring or the switch where you put the key.

Also do a continuity check from the ignition down to the solenoid on the stater, just to see if there is a break in the wiring.
@ McVicker, when you say run a wire directly from the positive of the battery down to your starter solenoid, do you mean a large cable like the one bolted to the starter or a smaller one like the wire with the black connector that connects to the starter?
 
@Fj80Ringo in my quoted suggestion you are just going to the starter solenoid, so you don’t need a large wire. A 10 or 12 gauge wire will be fine.
 

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