- Thread starter
- #101
The high lift bar bolts right on to that tab you see in the picture. I don't think it sticks out anymore then the cb tab above. I would bolt it on and shoot a picture for you but my high lift is kind of buried in my garage.
Newps - 2001 LC 100 build thread…..
- Thread starter Newps
- Start date
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Tare, very nice build. Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any details about those wheels. I noticed in the early pics you had some 16" wheels then changed to the 18". I was planning to go to 16s but decided to keep my 18s after all. I think your wheels look great, are they original LC wheels or from a different vehicle? I have seen them on other LCs but wasn't sure if they were factory.
sdnative I also have 18's. Check out https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-mud-100-series-photos-thread.91953/page-337#post-9215893
Looks like those are slighly different. I am definitely intersted in the wheels Tare has and also LCP:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/la...override-diff-drop.764656/page-2#post-9215462
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/la...override-diff-drop.764656/page-2#post-9215462
- Thread starter
- #105
Kinda buried in post #4. They are Tundra take offs I scored on Craigslist. I think they were about $450 with almost new tires.
- Thread starter
- #106
This past week I installed a cb in my truck. It's basically a copy of my 80's set up with a few exceptions. The cb is the same, a Uniden PRO-520XL 40 Channel Compact. This is really a great little cb, small size and great range.
I purchased a Lab-Rak driver's side cb antenna mount (in black) during their 20% off Memorial Day sale. The fit and finish of this part is great however I am having one problem. When I screw on my cb cable it barely fits. There is a tremendous amount of pressure on it and it sits at an angle. Not sure if others have had this same problem. It works but I would like to see a redesign to allow more clearance for a screw on cb cable.
I purchased a Lab-Rak driver's side cb antenna mount (in black) during their 20% off Memorial Day sale. The fit and finish of this part is great however I am having one problem. When I screw on my cb cable it barely fits. There is a tremendous amount of pressure on it and it sits at an angle. Not sure if others have had this same problem. It works but I would like to see a redesign to allow more clearance for a screw on cb cable.
- Thread starter
- #107
Running the cb cable from the Lab-Rak mount to the center console was a huge pain in the ass. I had to remove the rear tail gate plastic flap, the drivers side rear corner / side panel. Both passenger and drivers side rear plastic door jams and internal steps. The second row seats and the driver's seat. There were a few additional plastic bits in the rear cargo area that need to come up as well. Now that I've done this once and know where and how to run everything I think I could get away with not removing the rear carpet and the second row seats. I also took the time and removed the 3rd row seat belts. The 3rd row seats have been in storage since I bought the trunk, the seat belts were always getting in the way and clanking around.
From the Lab-Rak mount I went straight down and came back up into the truck through a black plastic pop out. I drilled a hole and cut a slice in it from the side to the hole. Slid the cable threw the slice and into the hole.
Once in the truck I snaked the cable up by the jack, behind the sub, down the door sill then turned and headed towards the center console. The cb cable popped out of the carpet threw a hole that is also shared with the rear heat exhaust port.
From the Lab-Rak mount I went straight down and came back up into the truck through a black plastic pop out. I drilled a hole and cut a slice in it from the side to the hole. Slid the cable threw the slice and into the hole.
Once in the truck I snaked the cable up by the jack, behind the sub, down the door sill then turned and headed towards the center console. The cb cable popped out of the carpet threw a hole that is also shared with the rear heat exhaust port.
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- Thread starter
- #108
I had to mount my cb horizontally instead of vertically. Because of this I had to remove the fold down arm on the driver's seat. I've never used this arm so it was not a big deal to me. I will Macgyver up something to cover the hole where the arm attached.
Power is coming from the cigarette outlet port located in the center console. I was able to run my wires from the inside out with out having to drill any holes.
Power is coming from the cigarette outlet port located in the center console. I was able to run my wires from the inside out with out having to drill any holes.
- Thread starter
- #109
And finally all in and done. I think it worked out really well. The only thing I would have done differently was to mount the mike holder a little more towards the cb. It's a little uncomfortable to reach for it. When I am using it I kept the mike in my lap so it's really just the first time I grab for it. Other then that I am totally happy with the install.
- Thread starter
- #110
Here's a couple of shots from the outside. The Lab-Rak mount, the Firestik heavy duty antenna spring and the 3' Firestik antenna.
Here you can see the kink and the angle of the cb cable.
Here you can see the kink and the angle of the cb cable.
- Thread starter
- #111
It's been a while since I've updated this build thread. I started playing around with where to install my 10lb. Powertank. Inside was not an option due to my family situation growing. My girlfriend has two kids, plus my two kids makes us a family of 6...wow...
. I wanted to mount it on the spare tire but the damn thing already bounces as is. Putting more weight father out from the tire would only make the problem worse. In the end I settled on deleting one of my Scepter Nato cans. I can still run either 2 gas for 10 gallons or 1 gas ( 5 gallon ) and 1 water ( 5 gallon ). I used 4 u-bolts to secure it to the 4x4 Labs, cooler/gas can with Tuffy Security lockbox.
Like most of my projects...
, what I thought was going to be a simple mod ended up being a little more involved. The gas cans had rubbed away a lot of the powder coat, combined with living at the beach, there was quite a bit of rust. While taking it apart to grind and sand off the rust I found the same problem inside the Tuffy Security lockbox. Luke had mounted it upside down so that the door would open down. Seems perfectly logical and worked very well. However, Tuffy put drain holes in the corners of the down side only. Again perfectly logical and this would allow water to drain out and not allow water to drain in from the top side. Flip the box upside down and you have a perfect storm. Water can get in but can't get out. So in the end lots of more sanding and grinding.
Everything was coated with 4 coats of Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2X 12 oz. Satin Black spray paint and primer. The color was spot on and matches the powder coat satin black perfectly. I had to stack a bunch of washers behind the lockbox to move it out so that lockbox door would close with out hitting the tube that protects it from being dragged on the ground or a rock.
As you can see what I thought was going to be a easy project turned into a little more time consuming, story of my life. I remove the bottle for day to day use and have 2 pad-locks that keep it from walking away when in use.
. I wanted to mount it on the spare tire but the damn thing already bounces as is. Putting more weight father out from the tire would only make the problem worse. In the end I settled on deleting one of my Scepter Nato cans. I can still run either 2 gas for 10 gallons or 1 gas ( 5 gallon ) and 1 water ( 5 gallon ). I used 4 u-bolts to secure it to the 4x4 Labs, cooler/gas can with Tuffy Security lockbox. Like most of my projects...
, what I thought was going to be a simple mod ended up being a little more involved. The gas cans had rubbed away a lot of the powder coat, combined with living at the beach, there was quite a bit of rust. While taking it apart to grind and sand off the rust I found the same problem inside the Tuffy Security lockbox. Luke had mounted it upside down so that the door would open down. Seems perfectly logical and worked very well. However, Tuffy put drain holes in the corners of the down side only. Again perfectly logical and this would allow water to drain out and not allow water to drain in from the top side. Flip the box upside down and you have a perfect storm. Water can get in but can't get out. So in the end lots of more sanding and grinding. Everything was coated with 4 coats of Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2X 12 oz. Satin Black spray paint and primer. The color was spot on and matches the powder coat satin black perfectly. I had to stack a bunch of washers behind the lockbox to move it out so that lockbox door would close with out hitting the tube that protects it from being dragged on the ground or a rock.
As you can see what I thought was going to be a easy project turned into a little more time consuming, story of my life. I remove the bottle for day to day use and have 2 pad-locks that keep it from walking away when in use.
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I tried to start a convo with you but you were at your limit...any luck with 100 series LT travel?
- Thread starter
- #113
The old lady recently got some Mclovin. New Timing belt, water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, fan pulley bracket, radiator hoses, radiator, valve cover gaskets, and spark plugs. All work was done at Topline Performance here in Huntington Beach, CA. Purchased new tires too, I went with Nitto Ridge Grappler in a 285/75/18, (35.08/11.26/18). 20 years and 129,000 miles of faithful service she deserves it. I never posted up any photos in this thread with the Addicted Off-Road bumper.
I recently put in an order for a 2021 Ford Transit Passenger Van AWD Ecoboost High Roof 148" (long but not extended). So when that comes in she might be up for sale. SoCal only truck, no rust, very clean, never wheeled, just driven on some dirt roads. I will regret selling this one if I do....
I recently put in an order for a 2021 Ford Transit Passenger Van AWD Ecoboost High Roof 148" (long but not extended). So when that comes in she might be up for sale. SoCal only truck, no rust, very clean, never wheeled, just driven on some dirt roads. I will regret selling this one if I do...
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- Thread starter
- #115
No rubbing, maybe I should have gone bigger..... These ones are a little taller than the last set but 1/2 narrower. It's the width not the height that causes rubbing problems.
. These ones are a little taller than the last set but 1/2 narrower. It's the width not the height that causes rubbing problems.
