Newbie just picked up 82 4x4 (1 Viewer)

[mytrucksbroke]

Looking Good Cosmo!

Just thought I'd leave that other forum for a bit to stop in here and get a better look at your new project.

I think you've chosen well on a solid foundation. Looking forward to your progress.

Thanks, I should be getting started on this soon.
Ive taken it out a few times this past week, grabbed some lumber at home depot and did a little muddin....just thought I would drive it around a few times to boost my confidence that its not going to grenade on me driving down the road. Surprisingly it seems pretty solid and Im excited to get started fixing up a few of the issues.

 

[WoodsTruck]

If you have a little time, the ECM mounted to the kick panel might be worth looking at. I had heard these soldered pins fatigue after a while so I pulled one apart and sure enough 80% of the pins were loose. Clean up and resolder and the 20R runs like a top now.

 

[mytrucksbroke]

If you have a little time, the ECM mounted to the kick panel might be worth looking at. I had heard these soldered pins fatigue after a while so I pulled one apart and sure enough 80% of the pins were loose. Clean up and resolder and the 20R runs like a top now.

View attachment 2900011

I will take a look, thanks.
Tips like this are exactly what I need.

The carb is one of the first things I will address (I did already remove the clothespin) I guess my option are:

Rebuild the existing
Replace with something equivalent
Upgrade (weber seems to be most popular?)

Would love to hear opinions on these 3 choices

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Webers run like a top if you're willing to stay after their tuning and set it up for your specific engine. Most people aren't willing to do that last part.

The shifter bushing is <$10. Even my TINY local parts house had a few in stock.

That's a very clean truck! Love the 038 white. Mine used to be Cygnus as well...I wanna find the person who wrecked it with brown...then silver...then green.

 

[mytrucksbroke]

If you have a little time, the ECM mounted to the kick panel might be worth looking at. I had heard these soldered pins fatigue after a while so I pulled one apart and sure enough 80% of the pins were loose. Clean up and resolder and the 20R runs like a top now.

View attachment 2900011

Hmmm, ok so if the solder has cracks and the connection is bad it will cause issues....what if its not there at all?
I had a few free minutes today and thought I would check the ECM, I found the wire harness but not the module. Looks like its gone.
So the guy I bought it from told me he could not get it to pass smog!

 

[mytrucksbroke]

Im actually surprised this thing runs at all...

 

[2wheeldrive]

Speaking from experience, go and get a large roll of vacuum hose (you can't get the actual metric-sized hose Toyota used, and the size currently eludes me), and go one by one and replace every single piece of vacuum hose. All of it. Since you live in Kalifornia you'll have to keep the stock carb as you probably know. My other 82 with the stock carb (since sold) wouldn't idle and ran bad, after I replaced the hoses it was very much better. Idled smoothly and started easy.

I don't have an answer for the unique bit of engineering aka clothespin!

Jumping off of and seconding this response… My truck (82 2WD) took about 30ft of 3mm vacuum hose to do all of it. I used a contrasting color and pulled off one hose at a time, cut a new piece to length and installed it. I realized the auxiliary acceleration pump (AAP) diaphragm was bad when I had gas in a hose there, so replaced that also. New plugs and wires and I got the truck from barely running to running decently. It’s not perfect but very drivable. The clothespin on yours may or may not indicate a more complicated carb issue.

 

[mytrucksbroke]

I will pick up a roll this coming weekend...What about the missing ECM, I imagine that will cause some problems as well?

 

[2wheeldrive]

I will pick up a roll this coming weekend...What about the missing ECM, I imagine that will cause some problems as well?

I forgot about that, but I assume it would cause problems to not have that. I’d check forum classified for part outs, maybe check eBay, and contact Toyota parts yards (YotaJims, etc).

 

[1982SR5]

Im actually surprised this thing runs at all...

I’m shocked it starts with that clothespin in there. That butterfly was sticking slightly open on my truck and it would not start until I closed it manually.

I just had my 82 CA spec 4X4 longbed all apart for a carb rebuild and some other things, and took pics of everything. Let me know if you need to know how something should hookup and I can probably help or post pics.

 

[mytrucksbroke]

Let me know if you need to know how something should hookup and I can probably help or post pics

Thanks, I may take you up on that in the future.

Im getting ready to start to dig into this project. I plan on cleaning/degreasing everything up in the engine bay, then address the vacuum system and the carb.
I have decided to rebuild the existing carb, is there a particular rebuild kit I should get or can I just get the one auto zone carries? Are there any other components that are needed that dont come in the kit?
Thx

 

[mytrucksbroke]

Trying to track down ECM, sent out a few Emails and was asked to provide a part #. Everything I find online is always sort of vague as to what exactly I need and I am not familiar enough with engine parts to know what years are compatible with what.
I do much better with an old fashioned repair manual that I can hold in my hand instead of reading the internet on my phone, so I bought one today it should be here in a few days.

 

[subzali]

Calling @MDH33

 

[MDH33]

Calling @MDH33

Hi Matt! How are you and the family?


For OP, cool truck! That clothes pin is to hold the choke open. These carbs have a temperature actuated spring that controls the choke opening and closing and they wear out and cause the choke to remain closed, so someone stuck that in there to make it run.

When you rebuild it, you can sometimes rotate that spring to create the correct tension, but often the choke assembly just needs to be replaced. Not sure if that's still available. The keyster rebuild kits are good, but don't include the choke parts.

 

[1982SR5]

Thanks, I may take you up on that in the future.

Im getting ready to start to dig into this project. I plan on cleaning/degreasing everything up in the engine bay, then address the vacuum system and the carb.
I have decided to rebuild the existing carb, is there a particular rebuild kit I should get or can I just get the one auto zone carries? Are there any other components that are needed that dont come in the kit?
Thx

I’ve always used the Napa kits, but there may be better ones out there.

One suggestion I would make, is to order a variety pack of the reddish Viton orings, and use them where you can. I meticulously rebuilt my carb three years ago and all of a sudden it ran like crap. When I pulled it apart, most of the orings were in pieces. The Viton are supposed to hold up much better to ethanol.

I would also buy a vacuum tester and bench test your carb per the FSM once you have it together. Its easy and can save you a lot of headaches.

Test your fuel cut solenoid. If it’s bad a 2 wire solenoid for a 60 series cruiser is the exact same part but no one lists them as fitting the pickups for some reason.

Like another poster said, your electric choke could be bad. I have seen them on eBay recently.

 

[MDH33]

I’ve always used the Napa kits, but there may be better ones out there.

One suggestion I would make, is to order a variety pack of the reddish Viton orings, and use them where you can. I meticulously rebuilt my carb three years ago and all of a sudden it ran like crap. When I pulled it apart, most of the orings were in pieces. The Viton are supposed to hold up much better to ethanol.

I would also buy a vacuum tester and bench test your carb per the FSM once you have it together. Its easy and can save you a lot of headaches.

Test your fuel cut solenoid. If it’s bad a 2 wire solenoid for a 60 series cruiser is the exact same part but no one lists them as fitting the pickups for some reason.

Like another poster said, your electric choke could be bad. I have seen them on eBay recently.

I try to avoid ethanol at all costs with my older carburetor trucks. That stuff is highly corrosive to brass, aluminum, zinc, rubber. Basically everything our fuel system is made from.

Good call on the napa kits, I use those for fj40 carbs in addition to the keyster kits. The napa comes with the leather ringed accelerator pump plunger. Some redundant gaskets, but if you buy both, you'll have everything you need, and probably some spare jets too.

 

[1982SR5]

I try to avoid ethanol at all costs with my older carburetor trucks. That stuff is highly corrosive to brass, aluminum, zinc, rubber. Basically everything our fuel system is made from.

Good call on the napa kits, I use those for fj40 carbs in addition to the keyster kits. The napa comes with the leather ringed accelerator pump plunger. Some redundant gaskets, but if you buy both, you'll have everything you need, and probably some spare jets too.

Yeah, I really hate running ethanol through this truck. I had no idea how bad it was until my last carb rebuild. I had pieces of oring inside both venturis!

The closest ethanol free station I can find is 40 minutes away, so it’s difficult to deal with the logistics of it.

I’ll have to check out the keyster kits. Toyota still has a surprising amount of carb parts available, but some things, like diaphragms, are really pricey.

 

[gbogh]

For the vacuum hose, I've used this: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/tubing/system-of-measurement~metric/connection-style~barbed/for-use-with~air/high-temperature-soft-rubber-tubing-for-air-and-water/
You'll need a bunch of 3mm (think ~20ft), some 6mm or 8mm (I can't find my order receipt to confirm though) and some 10mm.
LC engineering sells silicone vacuum tubing kits with sizes you'll need.
boost controller sells metric vacuum tubing TurboLogic - https://www.boostcontroller.com/TurboLogic-Silicone-Vacuum-Hose-s/2128.htm

 

[mytrucksbroke]

A local Napa had the carb kit in stock, I also picked up some engine degreaser.

 

[mytrucksbroke]

Started cleaning the engine today so I can get a good look at everything. I noticed that one of the only 3 header nuts that are present was loose. There are only 2 nuts on the front studs near the distributor and one on the stud farthest to the rear. The rear nut was the one that is loose...I went to tighter it up and, of course, found out that the head threads are stripped ...
.looks like quite a few are stripped.
Im guessing I should just fix them all, any suggestions on a repair kit and also new studs and nuts?

Got the carb rebuild kit, going to get all new vacuum lines later this week and start getting some of this stuff taken care of