New TRD Wheels on 80 series Torque Specs? (1 Viewer)

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Hey all, I got a smoking deal on the newer 4runner TRD wheels (which use shank lugs) on my '94 80 series and was wondering what the consensus is on the torque specs. I usually dial it in around 100. However, when I put these on, the rears lugs tightened right up to 100ft-lb, however the fronts will only tighten to 80ft-lb...past that, I got the dreaded "lug keeps spinning". wondering if I am bottoming out on the shank lugs for the front? Seems odd the rears are fine and the fronts are not. These are newer studs as well- wondering if I'm good to go at 80ft-lb for the front, or if I need to do something different? whats the censuses?
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Are you using acorn style lug nuts on wheels designed for shank style lug nuts? Hard to tell from what you wrote.

The latter style uses much lower torque, 76 lb ft on my LX450.
 
Hey all, I got a smoking deal on the newer 4runner TRD wheels (they use Acorn lugs)
Are you using acorn style lug nuts on wheels designed for shank style lug nuts? Hard to tell from what you wrote.

The latter style uses much lower torque, 76 lb ft on my LX450.
They use Shank - ah...so I might have actually overtightened...?
 
Shank uses lower torque compared to Acorn.

LX450 uses shank style and is torqued to 76 lb ft.

Acorn style, with conical seat, is 109 lb ft.

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If the fronts keep spinning there’s a issue IMO
Stop driving now and pull them off and inspect them !!
 
If the fronts keep spinning there’s a issue IMO
Stop driving now and pull them off and inspect them !!

Agreed.

The studs are pressed into the hub and rely on ribs to prevent them spinning.

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If they are spinning, you may have atripped the ribs off the studs, or wallowed out the stud holes in the hubs.
Either way, torquing to spec could be unpredictable
 
Agreed.

The studs are pressed into the hub and rely on ribs to prevent them spinning.

View attachment 3903917

If they are spinning, you may have atripped the ribs off the studs, or wallowed out the stud holes in the hubs.
Either way, torquing to spec could be unpredictable
Here's another option, instead of the studs spinning in their bores, the studs may be Stretching, Remember he said in his first post that his front studs were replaced with newer studs, but are the the correct grade? I had something like this happen to me with a caliper bolt that some shop replaced with the wrong grade bolt before i bought my truck, When i went to tighten it to the correct torque spec, it just keep spinning, then without any warning it just snapped in two,
 
Here's another option, instead of the studs spinning in their bores, the studs may be Stretching, Remember he said in his first post that his front studs were replaced with newer studs, but are the the correct grade? I had something like this happen to me with a caliper bolt that some shop replaced with the wrong grade bolt before i bought my truck, When i went to tighten it to the correct torque spec, it just keep spinning, then without any warning it just snapped in two,

Could be.
If it's stretching, it's not gonna keep spinning for long.
If it goes round and round and round, studs are probably no longer secure in the hub.
If studs were fitted to an old hub, they are potentially gonna have less bite right off the bat because the holes in the hub are already partly opened up from the installation and removal of original studs
 
got the dreaded "lug keeps spinning". wondering if I am bottoming out on the shank lugs
These are newer studs

That is what needs to be focused on.
There are several reasons for this and they come down to something is the wrong size. Where did the studs come from? Cheap auto part stores tend to sell one size fits all parts. If your studs are too long or the spline area too small, this will be a big problem. I've installed more wheel studs than I can fathom. The ones that give me the most grief are the non factory studs.
The two biggest issues are spline diameter and length. If the spline was close, tightening it will clamp it tight as long as there isn't binding in the thread, if the stud is the correct length.

If the spline isnt tight and their too long, you can spin them too.

Any answer you get will be guessing. You need to measure things and find out what happened. Start with the stud length. If the spinning ones are the correct spline size, you need new hubs, the holes are now too big. If there too small, you "may" get away with proper studs.

I remember something in the back of my mind where the front and rear studs are diffrent lengths but don't have time to verify that.
 
Slightly Off Topic--- those TRD wheels look very nice. Do they require spacers?
 
Slightly Off Topic--- those TRD wheels look very nice. Do they require spacers?
Majority of toyota wheels from this era shouldn't require spacers because they clear the hubs. I just took SR5 4runner wheels off my 80 and they fit fine.
They do not REQUIRE them, but aesthetically you might have different thoughts than me.

Once I properly adjusted the rear panhard I also didn't have any rubbing with 35s on a factory 4runner wheel, so that was also a benefit. Can't speak to clearance issues if you run spacers.
 
Slightly Off Topic--- those TRD wheels look very nice. Do they require spacers?
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No spacers but they do tuck in, handy on 37s for flare/firewall clearance but slight rubbing in the usual spots with low backspace wheels.
 
To each their own, of course, but those wheels look too modern on the 80 Series IMHO. I like the FJ Cruiser wheels with the holes in them (eight holes?), but I'm not sure they look period correct, either. @mtnbiker4evr13, that is a very nice looking rig. I love the color and simple look - no snorkel, lights up front, etc. Very good looking truck you have there.
 
I like the OEM+ KISS approach. But as mentioned the factory wheels without spacers definitely sit tucked in.

I just just got a little tired of the stock wheels personally and wanted something slightly wider for the big tires. The SR5 have the same spec as those, as do most of the OEM 17s.

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Now I really am derailing this thread. I keep seeing ads for 2025 Land Cruiser wheels/tires. New takeoffs that are not that expensive given what the tires cost.
Do those also fit on an 80 series? Do they need spacers?

I like the factory wheels but It seems like the tire selection available for the traditional 285/75R16 is getting weaker.

There is probably a thread dedicated to this subject somewhere.

Jared

2025 Land Cruiser wheels.jpg
 
All the newer six lug wheels from tundra/Tacoma/LC I think even broncos have the right bolt pattern but a tiny hub bore so no. They won't directly fit.

Perhaps with a big spacer.
 
And offset is terrible.
 

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