I say we just use lots of duct-tape and some JB-weld on your manifold and call it a day... 
My dog is gonna piss on your tires ...
My dog is gonna piss on your tires ...
New to the FJ60 world, come share my pain (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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Have any pics of the new lift?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #185
As promised I got some pics.
Sunday was spent at SPIKE's place with Mark A and Randy88FJ62 helping out. SPIKE and Randy attacked the springs after SPIKE and I spent the first hour or so getting everything ready and the truck level and off the ground.
Lucky for all of us that when the truck was over at Georg's last year he replaced all of the spring bushings. What does this mean for us? Imagine taking the spring bolts off, taking the spring pin ONCE and having it hit the floor....EACH TIME!! What could have easily taken all day with a torch and the Fire Department turned into just a few quick hours.
All the springs were off and the new set were getting prepped. I forgot to spray paint the U-bolts
so I did that and painted the leaf springs because there was a little bit of surface rust on them. SPIKE and Randy would have finished it expect for two things:
1. I forgot the driver's side spring in my garage.
2. LCWIZARD sent me two passenger side spring saddles.
I took the opportunity to replace so far 2 of the 4 rubber brake lines. I still need to replace the other 2 and then bleed the brakes. Some notes about the brake hoses:
•*The female couple of the braided hose isn't long enough to reach the hard line. This means manipulating the hard line to get it to fit in. This was lame.
• The kit comes with a large washer but on the PS you need to curl the ends to get it to fit right in the braket or else the Jesus clip isn't going in without getting bent.
Sunday was spent at SPIKE's place with Mark A and Randy88FJ62 helping out. SPIKE and Randy attacked the springs after SPIKE and I spent the first hour or so getting everything ready and the truck level and off the ground.
Lucky for all of us that when the truck was over at Georg's last year he replaced all of the spring bushings. What does this mean for us? Imagine taking the spring bolts off, taking the spring pin ONCE and having it hit the floor....EACH TIME!! What could have easily taken all day with a torch and the Fire Department turned into just a few quick hours.
All the springs were off and the new set were getting prepped. I forgot to spray paint the U-bolts
so I did that and painted the leaf springs because there was a little bit of surface rust on them. SPIKE and Randy would have finished it expect for two things:1. I forgot the driver's side spring in my garage.
2. LCWIZARD sent me two passenger side spring saddles.
I took the opportunity to replace so far 2 of the 4 rubber brake lines. I still need to replace the other 2 and then bleed the brakes. Some notes about the brake hoses:
•*The female couple of the braided hose isn't long enough to reach the hard line. This means manipulating the hard line to get it to fit in. This was lame.
• The kit comes with a large washer but on the PS you need to curl the ends to get it to fit right in the braket or else the Jesus clip isn't going in without getting bent.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #188
So at this point we moved to the exhaust.
It took the rest of Sunday to get the manifold out. In doing so I found that the brake booster hose had a large crack in it although I never had an issue with braking. While take out the air rail, the #6 tube twisted
, the smog pump to air cleaner hose split and after taking off the manifold we found the take tell sign of a junk intake manifold; the hairline crack down the center of the throat. Its oh so small but large enough to wreak havoc.
Luckily Mark didn't leave for Katemcy yet so I got an intake/exhaust manifold set up, new air rail, another brake hose (I was short one), the hoses and another Jesus clip.
So this morning SPIKE and I wrestled that F'ING manifold back on. It was a good three hours to get it where it was supposed to be. Part of our problem was:
• we were using the REMFLEX gasket. This was the problem perse but meant we had to be extra delicate.
• we replaced the exhaust bolts with all new exhaust studs and nuts. This made maneuvering the manifold around the exhaust flange AND the J tube next to impossible because the #1 ram horn was banging into the P/S bracket. It took some "persuading" with a BFH (deadblow) but it went together.
WE set the torque to 14# because REMFLES recommends 14-17 MAX and we used anti-seize so we went to the bottom of the scale.
I also clipped on the carb spacer heat shield. This will make future torqueing MUCH MUCH easier.
So tomorrow will just be putting everything back together. I will of course still need to wait for LCWIZARD to send me the other bottom plate to finish the lift. SPIKE put the onld set on that side backon just so it can be driven in the mean time. I just wont be off-roading with that set up.
It took the rest of Sunday to get the manifold out. In doing so I found that the brake booster hose had a large crack in it although I never had an issue with braking. While take out the air rail, the #6 tube twisted
, the smog pump to air cleaner hose split and after taking off the manifold we found the take tell sign of a junk intake manifold; the hairline crack down the center of the throat. Its oh so small but large enough to wreak havoc.Luckily Mark didn't leave for Katemcy yet so I got an intake/exhaust manifold set up, new air rail, another brake hose (I was short one), the hoses and another Jesus clip
.So this morning SPIKE and I wrestled that F'ING manifold back on. It was a good three hours to get it where it was supposed to be. Part of our problem was:
• we were using the REMFLEX gasket. This was the problem perse but meant we had to be extra delicate.
• we replaced the exhaust bolts with all new exhaust studs and nuts. This made maneuvering the manifold around the exhaust flange AND the J tube next to impossible because the #1 ram horn was banging into the P/S bracket. It took some "persuading" with a BFH (deadblow) but it went together.
WE set the torque to 14# because REMFLES recommends 14-17 MAX and we used anti-seize so we went to the bottom of the scale.
I also clipped on the carb spacer heat shield. This will make future torqueing MUCH MUCH easier.
So tomorrow will just be putting everything back together. I will of course still need to wait for LCWIZARD to send me the other bottom plate to finish the lift. SPIKE put the onld set on that side backon just so it can be driven in the mean time. I just wont be off-roading with that set up.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #191
Well the lift is in except for the driver's side lower flip kit bracket. Just re-used the old one until LCWIZARD can send me the replacement. The truck sits at a BEAUTIFUL height. I mean it looks like it should have come this way stock. It just sits so nice. Even with the stock wheels and tires it looks good. I will have pics later. New wheels are a must though. It would just sit up that much higher and would help its current CoG.
The truck now sounds wonderful. Now more exhaust or intake leaks. I now have to redo adjusting the carb all over again now that there are no leaks. Maybe tomorrow. We'll see.
The truck runs VERY noticeably quieter and definitely feels more peppy.
Only negative I noticed out of the whole thing is that the tires now vibrate like mad as soon as I hit 35mph. Now my thinking is that this issue was most likely always there but I never noticed it because the stock springs were 25 years old and just soft enough to absorb all the vibrations. As soon as I can track down some tires I will do the tires, balance and alignment. Should be good to go then.
The truck now sounds wonderful. Now more exhaust or intake leaks. I now have to redo adjusting the carb all over again now that there are no leaks. Maybe tomorrow. We'll see.
The truck runs VERY noticeably quieter and definitely feels more peppy.
Only negative I noticed out of the whole thing is that the tires now vibrate like mad as soon as I hit 35mph. Now my thinking is that this issue was most likely always there but I never noticed it because the stock springs were 25 years old and just soft enough to absorb all the vibrations. As soon as I can track down some tires I will do the tires, balance and alignment. Should be good to go then.
Toe in needs to be set.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #194
Yup and found a good thread for it:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/76961-do-your-own-alignment.html
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #195
OOOOOOOORRRRRRR............
The vibration was the gentle warning that my lugnuts have now worked their way off and the wheel is now readying itself to launch off the axle.
Seems we forgot to tighten the lugnuts on the driver's side rear
So got to a side street and tightened the three remaining and pulled one lugnut off each wheel. Then shuffled on over to Pep Boys and picked up a set.
So lesson boys...check YO NUTS!
So lesson boys...check YO NUTS!
Haha, will do.
As for the manifold bolts, 14#?? That seems really low to me. The 2F engine manual says 50# California spec, so that's what I tightened mine to with the headers. No problems so far!
OOOOOOOORRRRRRR............
The vibration was the gentle warning that my lugnuts have now worked their way off and the wheel is now readying itself to launch off the axle.
Seems we forgot to tighten the lugnuts on the driver's side rear
So got to a side street and tightened the three remaining and pulled one lugnut off each wheel. Then shuffled on over to Pep Boys and picked up a set.
So lesson boys...check YO NUTS!
What if I were to say after bleeding my brakes at home last week I had a similar vibration... I will not divulge any further information as it may put me up on the chopping block for another rubber ducky nomination.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #200
Just an update. It was time to re-adjust the carb to get to the smog shop again and Mark offered to adjust it so I stopped on over and first thing he found was a nasty vacuum leak. To me it just sounded like a huge suction of air and chalked it up to being my new gaskets working 
Turns out the hose from the PCV to the Intake tube had a long straight split in it and all of the vacuum was getting dumped out of it which never let me truck get anything above 10" of vacuum. So we replaced that hose, he adjusted the carb and now I am about 18-19" of vacuum and the truck drives, runs, idles and SMELLS wonderful now. Damn this is rad. Now I can get it smogged without worry.
Turns out the hose from the PCV to the Intake tube had a long straight split in it and all of the vacuum was getting dumped out of it which never let me truck get anything above 10" of vacuum. So we replaced that hose, he adjusted the carb and now I am about 18-19" of vacuum and the truck drives, runs, idles and SMELLS wonderful now. Damn this is rad. Now I can get it smogged without worry.
