- Thread starter
- #141
New to the FJ60 world, come share my pain
- Thread starter NLXTACY
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gotta hear what the happened in court or if you just got your money?
status update please
status update please
- Thread starter
- #143
gotta hear what the happened in court or if you just got your money?
status update please
I've been so busy with stuff that I haven't bothered with it just yet. My wife's best friend is begging me to let her go after them because she is just so pissed on what this kid did. She's an attorney and loves go after people. Her specialty is fraud.
Still 100% plan on pursuing it purely on principle. This idiot didn't even try to make good so let him suffer.
i just posted on the very old thread (one in your sig line) and asked for an update
dont mind that, i found it... haha
dont mind that, i found it... haha
- Thread starter
- #145
Ok well an update. I made the very first off road trip in the 60. You can see the small write up and pics from that excursion here:
IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Saline Valley Trip: 11th through weekend
What I have done so far is have the carb rebuilt by Mark's Off Road:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/242233-review-marks-off-road-carb-install-how.html
Ran into a problem because I didn't actually rebuild my own:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/242183-advice-needed-how-remove-screw-carb.html
Got the side panels from WagonGear:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/202376-60-62-quarter-panel-storage-hatches-4.html
Stripped out the interior. Got ideas for rhino lining and pricing:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/253867-i-need-suggestions-what-line-my-60-a.html
Need to get the CB installed. Working on getting 4" shackle and spring lift. Looking into getting some new tires and wheels. Looking to spend not a lot of money
There are tons of plans but money is in the way right now. I've learned there are things I REALLY need to do to get it road worthy. Mainly getting the same gear into the 60 that I have in the 80.
IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Saline Valley Trip: 11th through weekend
What I have done so far is have the carb rebuilt by Mark's Off Road:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/242233-review-marks-off-road-carb-install-how.html
Ran into a problem because I didn't actually rebuild my own:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/242183-advice-needed-how-remove-screw-carb.html
Got the side panels from WagonGear:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/202376-60-62-quarter-panel-storage-hatches-4.html
Stripped out the interior. Got ideas for rhino lining and pricing:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/253867-i-need-suggestions-what-line-my-60-a.html
Need to get the CB installed. Working on getting 4" shackle and spring lift. Looking into getting some new tires and wheels. Looking to spend not a lot of money
There are tons of plans but money is in the way right now. I've learned there are things I REALLY need to do to get it road worthy. Mainly getting the same gear into the 60 that I have in the 80.
- Thread starter
- #146
Just did a tune up on the truck. I do not own a timing gun yet so I can't check/set timing for it. BUT I just changed out the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. What came out was all non-OEM trash. The cap and rotor are probably usable for spares. The wires were 7mm vs 8mm. The plugs were Bosch copper. Now the plugs themselves were completely black with a heavy fuel smell and the gap was set at almost .060".
I changed with all OEM stuff from SOR. The plugs are now ND with a set gap of . 032". The wires are a big difference. The ones that came out of the truck were really long and just crappy. The new ones are really short and fit exactly as they should. Antisieze on the threads and dieelectric grease on the boots.
I also just scraped and scrubbed all the windows and treated them with Rain-X and anti-fog for the interior.
I found I have a nasty exhaust leak. I need to track that bad boy down but my guess would be exhaust manifold.
I changed with all OEM stuff from SOR. The plugs are now ND with a set gap of . 032". The wires are a big difference. The ones that came out of the truck were really long and just crappy. The new ones are really short and fit exactly as they should. Antisieze on the threads and dieelectric grease on the boots.
I also just scraped and scrubbed all the windows and treated them with Rain-X and anti-fog for the interior.
I found I have a nasty exhaust leak. I need to track that bad boy down but my guess would be exhaust manifold.
Last edited:
Speaking of a bad boy you need to track down and "fix"...the little **** that you got your 60 from....
My $0.02
-Carl
My $0.02
-Carl
Wow.... I am tired just reading this! What an adventure!
We have some friends that live in Merced....you have seen the NICE side of things
Glad to hear everything is working out!
We have some friends that live in Merced....you have seen the NICE side of things
Glad to hear everything is working out!
- Thread starter
- #149
Ok a few updates. Time and money have prevented anything major. Took it on its first off road adventure (at least since I've had it) and went to Saline Valley in Death Valley. I was FAR more comfortable in my stripped out 60 then the other two guys in their open top 40s 
I finally installed Wagon Gear's side panels and went with drilling out the tack welds instead of cutting off the brace.
I also got a rebuilt trans, yes its a 4spd, and transfer from a truck that I helped Mark's Off Road take the engine out of. No idea how long ago the trans/transfer was rebuilt BUT Mark took a look at everything and it seems to be ok except for two things:
1. They didn't use the gaskets when putting both inspections plates back on, just used blue RTV.
2. The cap where the speed-o-cable comes out is coming out the top instead of at 11 0'clock.
Everything else looks very clean and NOT worn inside. Mark drove it before I got t here and said everything was quiet and shifted smooth. Unlike my pile of crap.
I finally installed Wagon Gear's side panels and went with drilling out the tack welds instead of cutting off the brace.
I also got a rebuilt trans, yes its a 4spd, and transfer from a truck that I helped Mark's Off Road take the engine out of. No idea how long ago the trans/transfer was rebuilt BUT Mark took a look at everything and it seems to be ok except for two things:
1. They didn't use the gaskets when putting both inspections plates back on, just used blue RTV.
2. The cap where the speed-o-cable comes out is coming out the top instead of at 11 0'clock.
Everything else looks very clean and NOT worn inside. Mark drove it before I got t here and said everything was quiet and shifted smooth. Unlike my pile of crap.
looking good joey! 
you can get the cover gaskets seperate at the dealer; they're cheap. the speedo deal means somebody bolted the rear extension housing on wrong. remove the stake nut on the rear flange, pull the bolts that hold the housing in place, rotate the housing to the proper orientation and re-install.
i would recommend ordering a new ext hsng gasket and a new stake nut from the dealer as well as these items should be replaced when you rotate the housing.
you might also want to remove the speedo gear from the housing so it does'nt get chipped during removal/install.
hth
georg
ps: which 60 did the combo come out of?
you can get the cover gaskets seperate at the dealer; they're cheap. the speedo deal means somebody bolted the rear extension housing on wrong. remove the stake nut on the rear flange, pull the bolts that hold the housing in place, rotate the housing to the proper orientation and re-install.
i would recommend ordering a new ext hsng gasket and a new stake nut from the dealer as well as these items should be replaced when you rotate the housing.
you might also want to remove the speedo gear from the housing so it does'nt get chipped during removal/install.
hth
georg
ps: which 60 did the combo come out of?
- Thread starter
- #153
looking good joey!
you can get the cover gaskets seperate at the dealer; they're cheap. the speedo deal means somebody bolted the rear extension housing on wrong. remove the stake nut on the rear flange, pull the bolts that hold the housing in place, rotate the housing to the proper orientation and re-install.
i would recommend ordering a new ext hsng gasket and a new stake nut from the dealer as well as these items should be replaced when you rotate the housing.
you might also want to remove the speedo gear from the housing so it does'nt get chipped during removal/install.
hth
georg
ps: which 60 did the combo come out of?
Thanks for the info. I actually ordered a whole gasket kit just in case because not sure what else was missing.
And this is the combo from THAT 60. Yes the one you are thinking of over at Mark's. So its definitely been rebuilt but who knows...
- Thread starter
- #154
Damn I love white 60's.
Those springs look perfect for a SOA conversion
They do but i've decided against doing a SOA. So maybe there IS something on my truck worth selling
i can attest to that trans and t-case working very well. we drove the truck home months ago, about 100 miles with no hick-ups or other issues/noises. did'nt put any miles on it after that.
nice score, should work out well.
nice score, should work out well.
- Thread starter
- #156
Just spent some time over at SPIKE STRIP's place trying to get my truck to run a little better. Initially I figured I had an exhaust leak so I went ahead and ordered a REMFLEX exhaust gasket:
TOYOTA Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
What was cool is when you order the gasket you ALSO get the EGR tube gasket THAT ALWAYS leaks AND the heat riser gasket which was way cool.
Now SPIKE rolled under and started spraying down the exhaust bolts/nuts with AeroKroil. While under there he found that the EGR tube was MISSING the two bolts!!! I was getting exhaust pouring out of this and assumed it was a bad gasket. Lucky for me SPIKE had two spare bolts. Problem solved there.
Meanwhile I took off the air cleaner and valve cover. We adjusted the valves and found 5 out of spec and 1 way out of spec. The head valley looked very clean as did the inside of the valve cover. Did not look like a engine that has over 252k miles.
At this time we hooked up a vacuum gauge and then started to adjust the carb accordingly now that the EGR tube has been fixed and the valves were adjusted. We get the carb dialed in again and it runs a bit smoother and idles nicer. As we tried adjusting the idle mixture we found we just could NOT get more than 10" at idle. So as SPIKE and I were sitting there trying to decide what the issue was, we pretty decided that it must be an intake leak.
Well I found this page here on mud:
Vacuum 101 - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com
This confirmed what we already assumed, I have an intake leak for sure. So perhaps over the next week we'll take off the manifold and check for straightness and perhaps having it surfaced. We're planning on a 2 day job but I'm hopeful it can be knocked out in one day.
TOYOTA Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
What was cool is when you order the gasket you ALSO get the EGR tube gasket THAT ALWAYS leaks AND the heat riser gasket which was way cool.
Now SPIKE rolled under and started spraying down the exhaust bolts/nuts with AeroKroil. While under there he found that the EGR tube was MISSING the two bolts!!! I was getting exhaust pouring out of this and assumed it was a bad gasket. Lucky for me SPIKE had two spare bolts. Problem solved there.
Meanwhile I took off the air cleaner and valve cover. We adjusted the valves and found 5 out of spec and 1 way out of spec. The head valley looked very clean as did the inside of the valve cover. Did not look like a engine that has over 252k miles.
At this time we hooked up a vacuum gauge and then started to adjust the carb accordingly now that the EGR tube has been fixed and the valves were adjusted. We get the carb dialed in again and it runs a bit smoother and idles nicer. As we tried adjusting the idle mixture we found we just could NOT get more than 10" at idle. So as SPIKE and I were sitting there trying to decide what the issue was, we pretty decided that it must be an intake leak.
Well I found this page here on mud:
Vacuum 101 - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com
This confirmed what we already assumed, I have an intake leak for sure. So perhaps over the next week we'll take off the manifold and check for straightness and perhaps having it surfaced. We're planning on a 2 day job but I'm hopeful it can be knocked out in one day.
Check in front of the carb on the intake manifold and find where three vacuum hoses connect. First unplug the three lines and cap the three ports on the the intake manifold and see if the idle changes. The plastic piece that screws into the manifold was leaking some on mine before I put in a new one. You can unscrew it and check it with a hand pump.
Have you done a compression test?
Have you done a compression test?
- Thread starter
- #158
Nice, I will check that out tomorrow. I have not checked compression since Georg checked it initially. I may do so again just in case.
when you guys rebuilt the carb at marks', did you look down into the intake to see if it was cracked?! iirc, the carb cooling fan was not working when the 60 got to my shop which may have caused the intake to crack. not an uncommon problem.
also, grab some carb clean and spray a little on all the vacuum fittings and connections as well as along the intake manifold. if the idle changes at any point, you found your leak..........
also, grab some carb clean and spray a little on all the vacuum fittings and connections as well as along the intake manifold. if the idle changes at any point, you found your leak..........
- Thread starter
- #160
You know I didn't and I really should have with all that I have been reading. We'll know soon enough. The carb clean tricked I tried a few weeks ago and it definitely changed my idle which convinced me at the time that I had a leak somewhere. I just assumed it was the intake gasket.