New to FJ55s. . .

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Had I not seen the last pick, I would be in 100% agreement as from the pics it looks absolutely fine. Those metal bits do not look good. Check the gear on the distributor. Drop the oil pimp and check there as well. If nothing jumps out at you. When you are ready to test fire, oil prime the engine, check the gauge for pressure, if you have pressure ...reinstall the distrib and fire it up.

Since I'm already there, it's not much more work to take a closer look at the oil pump & distributor. . . certainly easier now than later!

If I pull the distributor, how do I make sure that I get it aligned when I put it back in?

Thanks,
Tom
 
There is also a note about the oil pump relief valve being scored heavily. . .


Might want to take a look at that relief valve...as long as you're in there
 
Pighead -

Your pic. shows exactly the position I was in for 3 hrs. this AM, except I was sitting in and breathing (through a respirator) 15 yrs. worth of mouse $s*** and cursing like a sailor. I found the perfect storm of broken pieces, but prevailed in the end - the tailgate is down!

I first tried to operate the window motor normally with the switch on the dash and with the key in the tailgate. No joy. Then I popped off the tailgate cover and tried to hotwire the motor directly. I was able to get the window to shift up and down slightly, but not lower. Then I read in the workshop manual about the clips you mention and was able to free the glass from the arm mechanisms and lower it. Still no joy, the tailgate handle/latch would not release the sides of the gate. Then I managed to remove the entire electric motor assembly so I could get a visual on why the latch was not releasing - the handle was broken on the inside right where the rod attaches to it. Finally, with the glass held up, I was able to MacGyver the latch on each side from being able to close itself, lower the glass and push out the tailgate - success.

I opened up the electric motor gear cover and sure enough, the gear is broken. So, broken plastic gear + broken latch handle = hard to open the rear gate!

Anyway, I won that round, but not without significant suffering. So I need a new gear and rear door handle - added to my (growing) list. Where is a good place to source stuff like that from?

I need a break now. Time for a (root) beer & lunch.

Tom

Checking back in on the rear gate handle. Did you check with CruiserDan when you ordered from him if Toyota still offers this?
 
Since I'm already there, it's not much more work to take a closer look at the oil pump & distributor. . . certainly easier now than later!

If I pull the distributor, how do I make sure that I get it aligned when I put it back in?

Thanks,
Tom

Easiest thing to to do is put #1 at TDC, rotor will be pointing close to #4 cylinder. When you pull the dizzy you will see the slot on the top of the oil pump drive. This needs to engage with the tab on the bottom of the dizzy shaft. The dizzy is driven by the cam.

CAUTION: it is possible to drive the dizzy from the cam w/o being engaged with the oild pump. People have runied their F/2F engines this way. Be careful.
 
Might want to take a look at that relief valve...as long as you're in there

I'll add this to my inspection list. . . while I'm in there.

Checking back in on the rear gate handle. Did you check with CruiserDan when you ordered from him if Toyota still offers this?

I have come up empty on a rear tailgate handle. I did ask CruiserDan, checked w/SOR, MAF, pretty sure I asked Mark A. etc... I haven't made 100 different inquiries, but every time I talk to someone new, it's on my list. . .

At the moment, I'm thinking of trying to fabricate one myself. It won't be pretty, but I can probably come up w/something that will at least function and allow me to open the tailgate.
 
Pig subgroup

Nice 911--did you put the rear flares on? I've got a '77!

The cruiser gods must have aligned the stars for p-car owners to pick up FJ55's--I can't wait to work on my 'new' '76 project. Great thread--good luck!

Perhaps you, tomfj55 and yours truly need to form a Pig subgroup of Porsche owners. I have a '70 914-6 purchased new that's due for its second resto just as soon as I knock of a few remaining things on my Pig. Think I remember a couple of others who balance slow cumbersome Japanese metal with German-engineered quicker transportation.
 
Nice 911--did you put the rear flares on? I've got a '77! The cruiser gods must have aligned the stars for p-car owners to pick up FJ55's--I can't wait to work on my 'new' '76 project. Great thread--good luck!

Hi kpfoten - The previous owner of my '74 welded some SC flares on to give it a '74 Carrera look - I've done a heck of a lot of other "upgrades" to it though!

Perhaps you, tomfj55 and yours truly need to form a Pig subgroup of Porsche owners. I have a '70 914-6 purchased new that's due for its second resto just as soon as I knock of a few remaining things on my Pig. Think I remember a couple of others who balance slow cumbersome Japanese metal with German-engineered quicker transportation.

I've never owned a 914, but think they're kinda cool. A 914-6 is way cool! I thought about trying to find a 914 to put the 2.7L from my '74 into - but found my PIG instead. It's nice to have both ends of the driving spectrum covered!
 
Back to FJ55 project info. . .

Not too much to report. I did receive a rear window gear in the mail yesterday. I found it through this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/467906-rear-window-gears-done-2.html I called Don, sent him a check and he sent me a gear machined out of steel. At first I thought he may have sent me the wrong one because the center opening did not match the opening of the broken plastic one I had. After looking more closely at the shaft where the gear sits however, I realized there is a spacer on the shaft sized for the plastic gear. The spacer is removable and once removed, the shaft is the same size & shape of the new steel gear from Don. Being basically unbreakable, there is no longer any weak link in the rear window system after installing the steel gear - except for maybe the glass itself. . . so if the window gets jammed, either the glass will break or the motor will burn out? I plan to try to install an inline fuse on the motor circuit to try to help protect the motor. Maybe in place of the door safety switch? Any thoughts on this?

Here's Don's contact info from his card, I think he may have both styles available:
Don Standard
Standard Machine
Inyokern, CA
760-377-5332

Finally, Santa brought me FJ55 related schwag! I guess this means the project taking up garage space has gained full acceptance in my household!
IMG_0053.webp
IMG_0056.webp
IMG_1974.webp
 
I plan to try to install an inline fuse on the motor circuit to try to help protect the motor. Maybe in place of the door safety switch? Any thoughts on this?

Isn't there already some sort of fuse or relay or something on the firewall that does that?
Also, is the worm gear that turns your new metal gear metal or plastic?
 
if you're going to fuse it, you'll need to find the appropriate amperage. not sure what runs through those wires but judging by their size, it's a lot. you may end up being stuck running a buss fuse, which is not small.
 
Isn't there already some sort of fuse or relay or something on the firewall that does that?
Also, is the worm gear that turns your new metal gear metal or plastic?

There is a circuit breaker under the dash. Not sure if that will trip before the motor w/ new metal gear breaks the glass.

Worm gear is metal.

My guess is that Toyota designed the plastic gear to break before the glass did, and now that the plastic gears are 32+ years old they have become more brittle than they used to be.

The tailgate glass is flat, so you can have a glass shop cut you a piece to replace tailgate glass (kind of like the 40 windshield), but there is the safety aspect of smashing something/someone in the rear window.
 
I just verified that my worm gear is indeed metal. I will look into the circuit breaker under the dash. I know I will have to chase some wiring issues anyway, so I'm sure I will be getting familiar w/the wiring diagram soon!

How does the rear window come out of the tailgate? Do I just need to remove the weatherstripping? I thought I might create a cardboard pattern of the rear window, just to have in case I need it in the future. . .

Tom
 
Tom, look for a precision sheetmetal shop they should be able to repair it. If not send it to me I will fix it for nothing. You pay shipping.

Thanks Bob.


Hello -

Thought I'd post an update along with a few questions & a part search request. . .

Last weekend was warmer (high 30's) so I decided to do some more "cleaning". I threw the wheels back on so I could roll it outside where I flushed out the water/coolant system w/a hose - I had already drained the bulk of the coolant when I pulled the radiator, but still flushed lots of additional murky liquid anyway - including from the heater hoses as much as I could. Also rinsed out the radiator which contained lots of cat-food-like waterlogged pellets??? Not sure how they got in there as the system seemed pretty closed off. . . I'm not sure what else they could've been?? Also cleaned and rinsed a lot of other little stuff and washed all the floor mats again, hoping to replace the mouse condo stench with a clean lemony one. I've slowed down a bit the past few days as I'm playing stay-at-home dad during Christmas vacation. Mostly I've been ordering parts and waiting for them to arrive so I can stop DISassembly and start the REassembly.

I did talk to Mark A. today about my carb., which he's had since the end of last week. He's not 100% sure yet whether he can resurrect all of it. The throttle shaft is frozen - I'm hoping he'll be able to get it unstuck! I did talk to him about drilling it for vacuum advance while it's there (which I am going to have done). I can just cover it w/a cap for now and then it's there if/when I need it. Can't hurt I figure.

So on to a few questions. The first is the ebrake. I told Mark about the overdrive and asked about parts & a cable. He said there were some variances in cable ends (at the firewall end) and he wasn't comfortable sending me one not knowing exactly what I have/need. Also, the overdrive probably skews the required length. . . Since my cruiser didn't come w/a cable to use as a reference, I was hoping you guys could help identify what I need. Below are a few pics of the attachment linkage on the firewall. I'm assuming this is stock for a '72? One pic is with the handle pulled, and one is with it released.

Finally, one of the few parts I haven't been able to locate is a tailgate handle. Mine's obviously broken - see last pic. Does anyone by chance have one laying around looking for a good home? I suppose I could try to fabricate a replacement - which I'll do if I come up empty, but I'd rather not!

Thanks again & hope everyone's having a relaxed approach to the big day (at least it's a big day on my house w/a 6 yr. old & 9 yr. old)!

Tom
 
Tom FJ55;7219019 How does the rear window come out of the tailgate?[/QUOTE said:
Hehehe...one of my favorite Pig secrets.
There are two sliding clips that hold the window channel to the thingies that the wheels on the arms fit into. Clear? No, you have to know they're there and how they come out before you can take them apart. A pic would be easier but I don't have one. You pretty much have to do it by feel. But, there is a tab on one end of the sliding clip, and I put the pointy end of a slot screwdriver on that tab and tap it out with a hammer on the other end of the screwdriver. Clear yet? Tap those clips out and the whole thing comes apart. With the tailgate down, pull the glass out. putting it back together is lots more fun.
 
Tom, sorry talking about tailgate handle.

Thanks Bob.

Hi Bob - Thanks for the offer! I will send you a PM w/a few questions etc...

Hehehe...one of my favorite Pig secrets.
There are two sliding clips that hold the window channel to the thingies that the wheels on the arms fit into. Clear? No, you have to know they're there and how they come out before you can take them apart. A pic would be easier but I don't have one. You pretty much have to do it by feel. But, there is a tab on one end of the sliding clip, and I put the pointy end of a slot screwdriver on that tab and tap it out with a hammer on the other end of the screwdriver. Clear yet? Tap those clips out and the whole thing comes apart. With the tailgate down, pull the glass out. putting it back together is lots more fun.

Ya, I've done everything except that last part - "pull the glass out"! Maybe I just need to be more aggressive w/it, but when I tried to slide the glass out of its tailgate slot, it looked like metal piece attached to the bottom of the glass was bigger than the opening it was trying to fit through? As I said, maybe I need to be more aggressive, or start removing the weatherstripping to make the opening bigger. The weatherstripping is pretty crumbly anyway and probably needs to be replaced (which was why I want to avoid removing it if possible as I don't think it will survive being removed). . . I'll take another look.

Thanks,
Tom
 
How does the rear window come out of the tailgate? Do I just need to remove the weatherstripping? I thought I might create a cardboard pattern of the rear window, just to have in case I need it in the future. . .

Tom

Pighead's description is very valid.

I have some scans of the FSM I can post when I get back to my home PC. Until then, here are some pics of the hardware he describes...
window bottom brackets 1.webp
window bottom brackets.webp
 
I just verified that my worm gear is indeed metal. I will look into the circuit breaker under the dash. I know I will have to chase some wiring issues anyway, so I'm sure I will be getting familiar w/the wiring diagram soon!

Tom

Here is a scan of the wiring diagram.
 

Attachments

I just verified that my worm gear is indeed metal. I will look into the circuit breaker under the dash. I know I will have to chase some wiring issues anyway, so I'm sure I will be getting familiar w/the wiring diagram soon!

How does the rear window come out of the tailgate? Do I just need to remove the weatherstripping? I thought I might create a cardboard pattern of the rear window, just to have in case I need it in the future. . .

Tom

Here is a scan of the FSM showing the wiring diagram, w/ circuit breaker, and an image of them removing weatherstrip to get window out.

HTH,
Pig Tailgate 12-38.webp
Pig Tailgate 11-16.webp
 
Pablo - Thanks for the FSM images.

Haven't made a ton of progress the past few days, but I'm hoping to turn it up a notch when school starts tomorrow & my boys are occupied for most of the day.

I have started some pieces for a rear tailgate handle - just needs a final touch up w/the grinder before I drill some holes and break out the welder. I think once it's done it'll work, but it won't be the prettiest solution.

I also pulled the distributor. It was pretty gritty and grimy inside. I couldn't help myself and pretty soon it was completely disassembled and clean. One of the steel washers (you can kind of see it in the pic) was pretty worn out. I sent an email to JimC. to see if he has any spare parts or distributor rebuild kits available. Other than the grit & washer, it looks pretty good and seems pretty tight etc...

Also took a look at the oil pressure relief valve. It too was in better shape than I expected, given the notes in the receipts I have. The piston has some slight scoring (not deep enough to capture on w/a camera) but moves freely in the bore just fine.

Hoping to start putting more stuff back together tomorrow. . .

Hope everyone had a nice Holiday!
TailGate Handle 2.webp
Distributor 3.webp
PressureReliefValve 1.webp
 

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