New Thule Trailer (2 Viewers)

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Long shot, but if anyone has one for sale (1500 or 1700) let me know. Western Washington preferred. Looking for something light to tow behind a BJ73
 
Is this the oldest semi-active thread on Mud???
 
Just found this forum. I have the larger Thule N3205. Really glad to see everyone's ideas for bike racks, etc. I was looking for replacement gas struts for the trailer top which is what led me here. I just found them at LiftSupportsDepot.com for $19.94 each. Thought I'd post in case others are struggling to find these.

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what is the part # for the lid struts. Also,do the new struts secure the lid when it is open,or does the lid want to close on it's own?
Thanks.
 
After 4 years living abroad in Japan, my family has returned to the USA. Picked up the trailer from my parents home and hauled our stuff back to CT. We plan to do another big family trip out West next summer!
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what is the part # for the lid struts. Also,do the new struts secure the lid when it is open,or does the lid want to close on it's own?
Thanks.
Hi, sorry for the late response.

The below are what I used for my trailer and lid, and unfortunately discontinued. I cannot determine if they are similar in dimension to what you have, but they worked for mine and are stouter than the OEM because I have a rack built onto my lid. I think the OEM ones are between 40 and 50 lbs. Suffice it to say that going through all 20 some odd pages of this thread will yield much info if you haven't done so already ;).

 
Hey everyone. I wonder if one of you can help me with an axle mount question. Is the axle supposed to me mounted so that the bracket straddles the large crossmember in the middle of the trailer? Mine was mounted so the rearward bolt was through the crossmember but the forward mounting hole was well forward of the crossmember. I've taken 3 pretty long trips with the trailer and on this last one the front mounting bolts ripped out of the trailer frame because the metal is fairly light gauge and whoever assembled it put the washers under the thick axle bracket instead of on top of the thinner frame rail. Was lucky I had driven to a Champcar race that weekend and had my mig welder with me. Had to weld it up in the parking lot to get home!

If you can please post a pic of how your axle is mounted. this is the larger 1700 trailer.

Thanks in advance!

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I don't have one - but I can tell you need to upgrade what is there - I'd recommend some 3x4 or 4x4 angle iron to support that thin section getting "sucked down" - Or just some flat 3" plate but an L would get you up on the wall of the frame to spread out the load. Might as well. Similar stress to my Suby-Axle Trailer - with 3/16 C-Channel Frame, it's going on like, 25 years in service as a trailer and doing fine. Geeze no has to be 30 years. Damn I'm old :D

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Just a heads up I will be selling a Thule 1700 next month. Fair/Good used condition. Denver, CO. I've got to get one more trip out of it first :)
I still love the thing, but as the family grows, I just need something a little bigger. I'll pull it out of the garage and get some pics together if there's interest.
 
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Just a heads up I will be selling a Thule 1700 next month. Fair/Good used condition. Denver, CO. I've got to get one more trip out of it first :)
I still love the thing, but as the family grows, I just need something a little bigger. I'll pull it out of the garage and get some pics together if there's interest.
Please PM contact information when available, many thanks!
 
Hello everyone.

I have been doing an R&R on our trailer. Our son rear ended our 1205S and bent the right rear corner and frame as well as damaging one of our spare cars a couple of years ago. The floor was about worn out and many rivets were coming loose or gone anyhow. Its always been out in the weather. Decided to take it completely apart, paint everything, new pressure treated plywood floor, replace all the rivets with 5/16 SS allen head bolts and flanged nuts. Straightened out the tongue bars but will likely need to bend them upwards an inch or so with a floor jack when I'm all finished to correct a sag in the frame. Couldn't get new parts easily except lights so I'm repairing rather than replacing. Excited to have our trailer back and ready to use again. Sure wish these trailers were available new again in the USA. We are in the USA but the license plate is a leftover from when I was stationed in Italy 20+ years ago. Our state doesn't require plates on utility trailers. Such a useful tool. Somebody ought to sell these in the USA still. I am aware of Space Trailer. The $4500 price tag is a little beyond what I want to spend on a trailer though.

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I'd be very interested in seeing the damage....very unfortunate that it happened.
Well two years later - the repairs are being done and the pictures are up. Holy cow time got away from me... Renovated the old house, sold in ~36 hours (!!!) and we have been enjoying our current house and doing repairs and upgrades, etc. Really loving the flat driveway for projects. Milked the damaged Brenderup for two years until we were moving community theater things across town and it just came apart at the seams. The floor gave out, the sides sliped off the floor and started rubbing against the tire's inner sidewall. Smoke! Oh-my! We pulled over. Borrowed a trailer to complete the task and carry the Brenderup home. No lasting damages to anything. No actual damage to the trailer. It was just tired. So before we start a kitchen reno, it was time to do the trailer reno. Just about done and I ran out of allen head bolts. Waiting on an order that should come in the next couple of days. I think we'll have a completed trailer this weekend.
 
Trailer is all done. So glad to have this tool back in service. Moved an engine and firewood the first weekend. 100+ miles each way. Still need to R&R the top.
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Thule is coming up with a new roof platform (very belated) and if I were to do my rack over, I would be tempted to mount either the small or medium Thule Caprock on posts.

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After the winter months, I discovered one of the tires was flat. After some close inspection on both tires, I saw cracks in between the threads. Found some 175/R13 one trailer.com and raised the trailer bed by 2” using 2” steel square tube as spacers. I also replaced the spare tire to match the new tire sizes.
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After the winter months, I discovered one of the tires was flat. After some close inspection on both tires, I saw cracks in between the threads. Found some 175/R13 one trailer.com and raised the trailer bed by 2” using 2” steel square tube as spacers. I also replaced the spare tire to match the new tire sizes.
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Looks good!
 
Still using the heck out of our Thule/Brenderup trailer. Finished the repairs, wanted to be able to carry our canoe or our kayaks - not generally all at the same time. One is a long Folbot 17'. Others are plastic 10ft and 12ft kayaks. Different toys for different adventures. The solution was an extendable tongue. Someone up thread had done something similar.

The inner square tube is 2". The outer square tube is 2.25" and hard to get locally so I had to order that. What I ordered was 12" too short so I sleeved it with 18" of 2.5" square tubing. Measure twice folks... ;) The little tabs at the end that bolt to the cross member under the middle of the trailer are just ~1" angle iron. Just scrap that I had laying around. All the bolts were 1/2"-13. Made the "junction box" where the original A arms join the new 2.25" square tubing out of 1/8" sheet metal. I have access to a sheet metal break at work. The bottom half didn't turn out 100% tidy but its functional. We have a couple of fabrication job shops locally that could make one at a price if I didn't have access to the sheet metal brake. I'm sure every town has that option. The inside width of that junction box is 2-5/8". I may remake the bottom plate and have its sides meet the top plate of the junction box and MIG weld them together later when I have my welder setup.

The 2" square tubing is 6 ft long. Similar wall thickness to the larger tubing. Should make a good 4ft extension which I think will suit my needs. I left 12" or so of the larger tubing sticking out as well. You'll see it in the pictures. If it sags over time meaning it isn't strong enough I'll move up to a thicker wall. I don't expect this to happen hauling kayaks.

The source for the 2.25" square tubing was Shapiro Metal Supply on the internets. Steel Square Tube - 2 1/4" X 2 1/4" X .100" X 72" (you want 7ft).
They'll sell you whatever length up want and ship it in a cardboard tube. It was ~$60 to my house - steel and delivery. Alot cheaper than materials from Amazon or eTrailer. Watch the delivery charges. Some carriers limit how long the tube can be @ normal shipping prices. Too long and they'll send it by truck freight. UPS allows up to 9 feet.

I sourced the 2" square tubing locally from one of the fabrication shops some time ago. Check and see if your local sources can get the 2.25" tubing. My local source acted like it didn't exist or it only existed in some catalog they couldn't order from. ;)

Loaded it with 300 lbs yesterday and ran it 250 miles round trip on the highway with the tongue in the short position. No problems. No noises. I'll try the extended version later this week when I go paddling after work one evening. I intended the kayak configuration to be a local use solution. Not sure yet how it would behave at 70 mph with several plastic kayaks on board. Crosswinds from big trucks could be a problem for such a light trailer. Mostly intended for the back roads at ~45 mph.

Will probably build a bow support to further stabilize the Folbot and canoe when I carry them. I have already added removable 2x4 cross bars to carry wood home from the hardware store. I've carried a half dozen sheets of plywood/luan/sheet rock. Or a dozen 2x4x8 or 2x6x8. Great trailer for that.

The knobs thread into threaded inserts I added in the tops of the side panels (x3 per side panel of trailer for three cross bars). I can add some 1x3 skids for the canoe and Folbot to lay on. Attach it to the crossbars. Then make another set of basic crossbars for carrying lumber again. Attach the boat carrier or the lumber carrier as needed. Another thing I might consider adding is a couple sticks of "angle iron" that lay on the tops of the side panels to reinforce the side panel top edge. They'll just ride on the same threaded knob shaft. Lay the angle iron on the side panel first, lay the rack on top of that, insert the knobs and tighten. Or screw them to the wooden crossbars so they install as a unit.

Here are the knobs: Amazon product ASIN B08R7MS442
Allen headed bolts might a better low profile solution.

I still count this little trailer as one of my most useful tools. Still surprised that some company doesn't import and sell them as a kit mail order. Space Trailer doesn't count b/c $5K for a trailer and $1K delivery isn't even in my universe. Way, way too expensive. These Brenderups/Thule can still be purchased new in the UK for about £1700. That's quite a price spread from a Brenderup/Thule to a Space Trailer.
 
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