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I'm probably not much help bc my knowledge and experience with axles/wheels and their inner workings are pretty much nil. However, if you find that the axle and rims are fine, you can go to a simpler route like the one I took. I purchased new tires for my trailer from etrailer.com. I also purchased two 2" steel square bars (8" in length) from Amazon. I didn't see a need to get new rims especially bc I also had a spare tire. I returned from a 1 month trip where I traveled from Connecticut to Kentucky and then to Southwest USA (Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, and Colorado). Over 6,000 miles were put on the new tires and the trailer. The tire you have linked from Amazon will probably work but note that it is "D" type and since these trailers are used predominately for travel especially long distance, I would opt for a "R" type tire (radial) which is ideal for highway use.Hi all, I just purchased the Thule (Brenderup) 1205. Unfortunately, it has been neglected pretty bad and needs some fixing.
Fell in love with this trailer the second I saw it. Then found this forum and spend a couple days reading everything i could! Great info.
So i'll show some pictures, but I need lights, struts, fenders, tires (prob rims too), i'm sure bearings and not sure about axles... looks sketchy but maybe someone can weight in on that based on the pictures. I found these wheels on Amazon and wondering if they will work if I move/replace the fenders:
Amazon product ASIN B01GV17DZ6I don't think the tires are anything special but at least I will have a rim that I can buy tires for in the US.
Am I better off buying rims from Germany like others have done?
Thanks for any input!!
Appreciate the response. I did purchase the rims/tires from Amazon. Almost laughable how poorly finished they are but they will work. I will mostly be using the Thule for toting my tools around town and a little of travel. At least the rims are a little bigger so I will have an easier time finding tires when the time comes and I will definitely upgrade to radial.I'm probably not much help bc my knowledge and experience with axles/wheels and their inner workings are pretty much nil. However, if you find that the axle and rims are fine, you can go to a simpler route like the one I took. I purchased new tires for my trailer from etrailer.com. I also purchased two 2" steel square bars (8" in length) from Amazon. I didn't see a need to get new rims especially bc I also had a spare tire. I returned from a 1 month trip where I traveled from Connecticut to Kentucky and then to Southwest USA (Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, and Colorado). Over 6,000 miles were put on the new tires and the trailer. The tire you have linked from Amazon will probably work but note that it is "D" type and since these trailers are used predominately for travel especially long distance, I would opt for a "R" type tire (radial) which is ideal for highway use.
However, if you need new rims, you may want go ahead and transition the rims/wheels to more USA friendly parts. A couple of posters on here went this route and posted their projects. Tag them and see if they will respond if you do need to get new rims and want to put standard USA types on the trailer.
Perkj, Wondering if you can help me. I am restoring my newly acquired 1205 and need to purchase new struts. I'm not planning on adding any type of rack so really just need struts that will work best with stock setup. I would love if there was a way to make the top extend up higher when opened so I can reach in easier without having to bend as much, but I imagine that might create an issue with it not being able to close completely. Any advice on what lbs or size would be greatly appreciated.@Sir Velo The previous owner had the Lift Support Deport had the 60 lbs version of the same strut on the lid ( Lift Supports Depot SE230P60 Gas Charged Lift Support) which are the exact same dimensions of the 150s I have on order, so fitment shouldn't be an issue as there was no issue with the SE230P60s.
I agree with the concern about how quickly the lid will rise with the 150s, however all the components of my rack equate to a little over 39 lbs (per the 80/20 site for the weights they state). Those long tracks alone are 16 lbs for the two of them. The stock lift supports were 45 lbs. The 60s that were on mine would not hold the lid up with just the rack on. The 80s require assistance to get the lid up, however once up the 80s can support it. Doing the rough math the 80s once you subtract out the 39 lbs for the rack, they are only left with 41 lbs for the lid itself plus anything on top of the rack...which isn't much. with the 150's I'll have 111 lbs available for the lid plus whatever is on the rack. Once I have them, I'll create a video of how they perform so you can get a sense of how quickly they pop the lid and how hard it is to close with no weight on the rack.
Lift Support Depot does make a 111 lber which is 23.12" (vs 23") full extension and the compression length is 13.5 (which is less than the 13.65 of the 60s I had on there) so it should no issue fitting: Lift Supports Depot 4758S10 Gas Charged Lift Support
They also make a 100 that will fit, its extension is 22.85 (vs 23): Lift Supports Depot SE225P100E39 Gas Charged Lift Support
Lift support has a great return policy so if the 150s don't work, I'll return and try the 111s next. I went with the 150s given that they were the cheapest at only $14.xx each. I'm also one to lean more towards overkill...go big or go home LOL
25 pages and many years...... I picked up a Thule 1205 /1500 (the small trailer) last week. I want switch over to 5 lugs like the pictures above not sure if the spindles are the same for what is pictured?? called Autoflex and spake to David in parts Monday Oct 30th. He called who made the trailer with my serial number out of the USA.
25 pages and many years...... I picked up a Thule 1205 /1500 (the small trailer) last week. I want switch over to 5 lugs like the pictures above not sure if the spindles are the same for what is pictured?? called Autoflex and spake to David in parts Monday Oct 30th. He called who made the trailer with my serial number out of the USA.
looks like there IS a listing of what I need but its prob the wrong spindle size to swap the hubs to what I need. Want to run 14" x 5" wide AT tire with stud space 4.5" run a simple steel wheel. the bearing prob NEVER received proper care since 11/2006 since manufacturing of trailer
my current hub Number is 6B1229
manuf plate says: KNOTT Gmbh Typ: V6 6-L 6A2012.001 / 650kg, UBER 25km
like to change up the tire and wheels, 2" space the axle from the frame, new led lights clean up the wiring mess, re-enforce several spots, try to lengthen the trailer tongue to have a little time control during parking.
Any help with the axle swap would be greatly appreciated what I found...... Thanks , Bill
I know this is a long shot but do you happen to still have those oem wheels? I hit some road debris over the holidays and tore up one of my wheels.Well, here’s a quick update on my 1500. I bought it over the winter for $350, and have since dumped more than that into it, but I think it’s shaping up quite nicely.
View attachment 2355449
I’ve upgraded to 5 on 4.5 hubs, 175/80r 13 on 4.5 inch modular wheels, which then required upgrading the fenders to the 30 inch long model. The wheel/tire combo sticks out about 1.75 further than the stock wheels, but the larger fenders cover the width great as well.
I took inspiration from those who came before me, and built a rack from 80/20. I used yakima 58” round bars because I had an old set, and my old bike trays went right on.
I also added a couple of toggle clamp style latches to better hold the lid down.
View attachment 2355454
The other thing I’m really proud of, is I managed to do a pretty great job repairing a crack in the lid. Here’s the outside:
View attachment 2355457
and the inside:
View attachment 2355459
I can add details about how I did it if people are interested.
Lastly, because of my tire upgrades, I do have a pair of oem wheels with 145 tires on them if anyone is interested. Not sure what they’re worth, but I suppose we could figure that out of someone wants them. I’m in Michigan, but if some wanted to pay to have them shipped, I’m open to that. I know they’re hard to get, I’d like to help someone keep their Thule on the road if I can.
I still have a jack coming for it this week, and I seriously need to upgrade the struts for the lid. I also want to add a retractable tongue for a little more reach when I have kayaks on the roof.
Thanks to all of you who had put some much knowledge into this thread, I was inspired to create a perfect little trailer to take my family camping. We’re actually packing it up this week, and leaving Thursday for a 2 week trip to the Upper Peninsula. Thanks guys!
Sorry man, I don’t. If you don’t have any luck finding a wheel, the hub upgrade wasn’t terribly expensive, and now I can grab a spare anywhere.I know this is a long shot but do you happen to still have those oem wheels? I hit some road debris over the holidays and tore up one of my wheels.
I have a set of wheels in storage. Tires are likely dried out by now, but the rims are in great shapeI know this is a long shot but do you happen to still have those oem wheels? I hit some road debris over the holidays and tore up one of my wheels.
I've been in contact with David at Autoflex in the states and he said the hubs are loaded just add the grease a locking nut and pin to lock it in place@Picturepro The 5 lug hub I ordered from Knott is: 6B1232.010 and with the following description: "HUB FNK11". It was shipped from Hungry. My original hub is also 6B1229 as yours is so these are the hubs you'll need
View attachment 3524916
here is a link to the part and Knott America should be able to order for you as they did for me: Autoflexker Kft - Webshop - http://www.autoflexker.hu/webshop/index.php?q=webshop/termek_27786/kerekagy_fnk_11_114,3x5_m12x1,5
I've been in contact with David at Autoflex in the states and he said the hubs are loaded just add the grease a locking nut and pin to lock it in place
I was on the fence about room two or three I'm just gonna order to at least now I have a contact but there is some delay between California and emailing them in fox lake, Wisconsin
And it still ships from out of country he gave me an option for waiting a few months for a shipping container or airship at Project done...
I’ve been in contact with David the last couple of days. HUBs are now $75 a piece. Air shipping is $100 or more. He said container shipping is usually 4-6 wks. And i can order them with the studs not bolts like they are now. Switching to 5 stud hub. Im going container since im not in a big rush to get it done.I've been in contact with David at Autoflex in the states and he said the hubs are loaded just add the grease a locking nut and pin to lock it in place
I was on the fence about room two or three I'm just gonna order to at least now I have a contact but there is some delay between California and emailing them in fox lake, Wisconsin
And it still ships from out of country he gave me an option for waiting a few months for a shipping container or airship at Project done...