New Thule Trailer (1 Viewer)

[theOz]

(keeping this old thread going as I'm picking up a Thule this afternoon)

theOz, I really like your setup and plan on using it for the same purpose. A few questions if I may (if you see this...):

1. How has it held up thus far in terms of the shell having to bear some of the load?
2. Regarding the top of the support risers and the welded plate, I'm guessing that the heads of the bolts are what slide into the crossbar channel and act as a fastener/locking mechanism? What size/type worked best for you?
3. With the load up top, how does it affect the trailer's stability?

Hi!

1) I have driven around a few times with the bar fully loaded with bikes and such and it is holding up fine. One thing I would add is to put some metal corner brackets inside the lid. My cargo top's corners were not "tied" together so I did this to give it more strength and stability since it is now supporting uprights. No signs of cracks or stress on the shell. Just make sure you get the front uprights bolted fully on the metal part of the shell and at least two bolts on each rear uprights. In hindsight, my bars are spread too far apart and should be closer together. I discovered after I had the bike racks installed that the rear part that clamps to the crossbar was where the rear tire also sits, thus preventing the rear wheel strap from being directly underneath. I would bring the rear uprights closer and you may be able to get all 4 bolts on each side on the metal.

2) You are correct that I am using bolts that slide into the Thule bars. I happen to have some spare Thule t-bolts that worked perfectly. However, you can find some panhead bolts (1/4" thick?) and grind down the top so it can fit in the slots. I did this to a couple before I discovered I already had t-bolts. Stick with Stainless Steel bolts/washers/nuts and you should be fine. As for size, I think nothing above 1/4" diameter will work (the head may be too wide for the slots.

3) I have not seen any issues with stability. Granted I don't drive around curves aggressively or at very high speeds (above 75+ mph). But I highly recommend that you always have the trailer loaded with at least 100+ lbs inside so it does not bounce around with bikes/boats on the top. The more weight inside, the better! If you want even more stability, I suppose you can weld on a 1" square aluminum bar b/n the uprights, just below the Thule/Yakima crossbars (even go as far as all the way around, fence-like). That would make the uprights much more rigid but might be overkill?


Let me know if you got any more questions/concerns!

 

[Sir Velo]

Hi!

1) I have driven around a few times with the bar fully loaded with bikes and such and it is holding up fine. One thing I would add is to put some metal corner brackets inside the lid. My cargo top's corners were not "tied" together so I did this to give it more strength and stability since it is now supporting uprights. No signs of cracks or stress on the shell. Just make sure you get the front uprights bolted fully on the metal part of the shell and at least two bolts on each rear uprights. In hindsight, my bars are spread too far apart and should be closer together. I discovered after I had the bike racks installed that the rear part that clamps to the crossbar was where the rear tire also sits, thus preventing the rear wheel strap from being directly underneath. I would bring the rear uprights closer and you may be able to get all 4 bolts on each side on the metal.

2) You are correct that I am using bolts that slide into the Thule bars. I happen to have some spare Thule t-bolts that worked perfectly. However, you can find some panhead bolts (1/4" thick?) and grind down the top so it can fit in the slots. I did this to a couple before I discovered I already had t-bolts. Stick with Stainless Steel bolts/washers/nuts and you should be fine. As for size, I think nothing above 1/4" diameter will work (the head may be too wide for the slots.

3) I have not seen any issues with stability. Granted I don't drive around curves aggressively or at very high speeds (above 75+ mph). But I highly recommend that you always have the trailer loaded with at least 100+ lbs inside so it does not bounce around with bikes/boats on the top. The more weight inside, the better! If you want even more stability, I suppose you can weld on a 1" square aluminum bar b/n the uprights, just below the Thule/Yakima crossbars (even go as far as all the way around, fence-like). That would make the uprights much more rigid but might be overkill?


Let me know if you got any more questions/concerns!

Thanks for your prompt reply! I'll definitely consider your recommendations, I haven't had a chance to go over the box and suss out the variables just yet. My first order of business will be to figure out why the running lights blew a fuse driving home :-/ I wonder if adapting the incandescent bulbs to LED would be worth looking into, the OEM lighting seemed rather dim and I'd bet they'd draw less current as well (I used a 20 amp in place of the 15A...).

For sure on weighing it down, I had a of banker's boxes full of books that happened to be in my car so I used them in hopes to dampen things. Let's say that the 100# is probably a good place to start lol

I'm looking at some universal type crossbars that I think are probably just reverse engineered Thule/Yakima, so I'd bet the same will apply with regards to fitment.

I'll post some pics along the way as this progresses.

 

[Sir Velo]

I ordered some replacement LED fixtures and wiring. After inspecting the trailer yesterday I discovered one of the wires leading to a side marker was sandwiched between the top of the frame rail and the bottom of the floor and it looked to me that the insulation had perished enough to cause an intermittent short. Oh, and there is a hole right there on the frame rail for a wire to go through. Who the #@%&! assembled this?!?

Still working on getting a spare rim or tire. Amazon has a great deal on some 175/80r13's, as my current 145's though have plenty of tread are cracked along the sidewall. Autoflex-Knott doesn't seem to respond to emails, so it's cold call time.

As for the rack, my neighbor suggested 80/20, so I checked that out and I think that's the route I'm going to go. I'll use some of theOz's ideas and design strategies and just bolt the thing together (not a welder nor do I play one on the radio).

 

[Sir Velo]

So the electrical troubles were as I thought. I replaced everything, lights and all and found the attached photo. Lame. I also had to remove all the side marker brackets because corrosion between the brackets and the box was effectively creating a short in the ground circuit for the lights. And oh yeah LEDs, much better.

AutoFlex-Knott is still unresponsive to both emails and calls. I got one response from Katie but nothing since. So forget them I guess. How easy I wonder would it be to just replace the hubs with an SAE bolt pattern? Are the spindles standardized? Time to look up the axle part and see what I can find.

 

[Sir Velo]

Over this weekend I added braces to the corners to tie the metal frame together (note the 4 nuts on the corners) and was able to get half of the rack temporarily installed (UPS driver had delivered the 80/20 parts to the wrong door, grrrrr). Drilling the holes for the support beam brackets was a PITA due I guess to the hole size, the corner bracket holes were smaller, the bit made quick work of the steel. Maybe tonight I'll get another support post attached.

 

[Sir Velo]

Another progress report.

I finished up the rack this weekend, mounted the bike racks and had new tires mounted. The fenders are tight and may require some "adjustment" to make room for proper clearance lol The 80/20 stuff was pretty east to work with, I would highly recommend their stuff for any project of this nature.

Next on the list are some more stout struts to hold the lid up and some rubber spacers to cushion the lid against the trailer box.

T minus 33 days and counting...

 

[Sir Velo]

Ordered new struts last week and they should be in today, had ordered some from Amazon that I thought would work. Not... too strong and too long (compressed). After much research I hope I found a set that will function within reason.

Tore down the hubs on Saturday, one looked fine the other, not so much (there was some corrosion). Finding spares in the US that I know will fit without ruining what I have already (and is acceptably functional) seems to be a longshot. I found Trailer Tek in the UK and ordered the exact parts. If they come in before I leave I'll install them, otherwise the repack job I did will have to suffice for the 800 miles RT I plan on taking in 2 weeks.

I also washed it to find out where the leaks are, caulking is on the list. I used some conspicuity tape to conveniently cover some of the holes in the box. It's reasonably leak free, except in the corners and at the tailgate. I might also try some gasket tape around the lip.

T-minus 13 days and counting...

 

[Sir Velo]

Well the little trailer that could! I filled it up and loaded the rack with 3 bikes and a Thule hitch rack (so we could bring the bikes into Yosemite without having to take the trailer, smart move!). It performed admirably all the way up and back.Tracks nice and didn't make too much impact on mileage.

The struts came in and worked perfectly, for the most part. With a bike or the rack on the top it'll open easily and stay up, once another bike is on there that's all folks. Which is fine, I can lift it fully loaded by myself though difficult. A nice bit of lumber helps to keep it up if need be.

I did replace the bearings and seals before I left, the only issue in doing so was with the spindle nuts. The spindle is slotted so the original nut is designed to be crimped/chiseled to deform the top part into the slot in order that it doesn't move. Very weird, most use a castle nut and cotter pin. Couldn't find a new nut to replace the old one to save my life so I reused the original, which I just kept an eye on and checked for play every so often. No additional play the whole way and back.

The fenders were the weak link, since I had gone with larger tires, I tried to compensate by moving them to give as much clearance as possible, but apparently it wasn't enough and they rubbed the tires and wore down the end corners some, didn't damage the tires though.

Next time, less crap!

Ready to roll!

June Lake!

 

[theOz]

@Sir Velo
Nice job on the trailer! That was a cool idea on the 80/20 bars. Loved my trailer (3.5’x5’) but after 2 trips, I sold it after I found the larger, 4’x7’, model. My smaller trailer sold pretty quickly and I made a profit.

After 2 more trips with the new one, I’m making some updates to the rack and trailer. A new enhancement is to put storage crates under the bed using toggle clamps. Will be useful to store seldomly used stuff, emergency, and etc. I also added 4 drop-down stabilizer legs to give me peace of mind with kids that try to climb in when I’m not looking. (Twice the trailer was parked on the beach, just several feet from the waters). My new trailer came with a spare tire but I moved it to the underside of the trailer’s tongue to make room for the cooler platform.

Next summer I am doing a ~6,000 mile trip out West to visit 5-6 National Parks (Yellowstone, Glacier, Badlands to name a few). So these enhancements will be helpful.

Mock-up on what I’m planning.

 

[Sir Velo]

@theOz Thank you, your handy work was certainly an inspiration! I can't blame you for moving up to the larger size, did it come with the lid? The mods look like a smart idea and I think I'm going to follow your lead on putting stuff underneath in a similar fashion. Since I don't have a spare and can't find a rim, I'm going to make a propane tank holder for the tongue for now. I used regular jack stands for the back end to keep the trailer stable, I made the same mistake your kids did and almost got dumped out on my head DOH! lol

A grand tour of the western half of the US sounds like a beautiful thing! I hope to do the same but head out that way. We're probably going to head up to Sequoia, then Yosemite and finally Mammoth lakes again next summer. June Lake was beautiful, but some of the upper lakes in Mammoth are amazing and easily accessible.

 

[theOz]

@Sir Velo
It did come with a lid and it was in excellent condition. I just started the storage installation on the bottom. Once completed, I upload photos and the materials I used. I’m figuring things out as I go.

A few pictures of the new trailer from this summer!

 

[Sir Velo]

@theOz looks like a most excellent adventure!

 

[theOz]

An update:
Still needs a little more work but I am nearly done with some upgrades to the trailer. I was inspired by your use of 80/20 and was initially intimated by the huge catalog of parts they have but after a week of researching, I decided that 80/20 was really what I wanted. I like the versatility it will give me. Not to mention that the T-slots (I went with the 40 series) is much more solid. I put some side rails in case I want to mount things on the side like the small SOT kayaks my kids have or even fishing poles. I am putting two more crossbars (the half t-slot bar) so I can use it as a cargo basket.

I finished the emergency/miscellaneous storage boxes that are mounted on the bottom. A small note in case you do put boxes on the bottom. I used Adjustable Toggle Clamps that have a feature to lock the handle. Very handy feature for peace of mind that the clamp cannot come undone while traveling. Would truly suck to see your things scatter across the highway!

I get my last set of parts next week from 80/20 and should have it completed by then. Will upload pictures the completed project, after my test drive!

 

[Sir Velo]

@theOz Impressive mods! I like the jack stands especially. I used a set I had and while they worked fine, they took up space in the trailer. I'm going to get a pair of those. I'll also probably put a bin underneath as well. The white plastic pieces on the sides of the bin that the latch is mounted on, is that something you fabbed or ?

Plus 1 on the intimidation factor of the 80/20 catalog! It took me a while to sort through all the permutations of extruded aluminum lol I'm glad I did though. I like what you decided on, I think it may have been a better route than I took (which was based off your original welded design), I'm guessing the fitting and screwing together was acceptably straightforward?

 

[theOz]

@Sir Velo The white plastic is UHMW Polyethylene that I used for my woodworking router table. You can get it on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z945U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_N9s.zb5HWWMZ1. I only used it for the larger bin so the toggle clamp was flush with the anchor bracket. The smaller bins I used a simple nylon spacer you can find at Lowes/Home Depot.

As for the fit and fastening of the T-slot bars, everything was done in mostly piecemeal fashion. As much I draw out and re-measure obsessively, I still ordered everything in phases (uprights first, followed by crossbars, etc.). Would be a costly mistake if I was wrong on my calculations but also had to keep in mind on the shipping cost. But everything worked out great and it was easy to do. I made sure to use Stainless Steel bolts, washers, and lock washers everywhere because humidity/moisture is a big problem in the Northeast. I think before I go on my trip, I will use removable loctite on the bolts for additional safeguarding against loosening of bolts despite having lock washers on every bolt.

While running errands today, I took the trailer along to see how everything held up. Drove on different kinds of pavement (road work, bad roads, interstate, etc.). The bins held up great (were fully loaded) and the rack was rock solid! Very happy with the outcome and many thanks for inspiring me to use 80/20. I see endless possibilities with it to help adapt to different kinds of trips (small kayaks on the side, bikes on top, or cargo bag, etc.).

My Bin Shopping List:
Buckhorn SW3215080201000 Plastic Straight Wall Storage Container Tote - 32" x 15" x 7.5" - LIGHT Grey, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N45CFK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kpt.zb5T6TQMF

Phansthy 550lbs Capacity Pull Action Latch Type Toggle Clamp 250KG Holding Capacity Clamps Packed 2pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721P9T3B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vpt.zbNMJRFXR

Bolts, Nuts and Elevator Bolts (holds anchor bracket up against floorboard) from Lowes

Black Window Seal Strips for the bin’s lip to seal it while in locked position.

Toolbox Soft Rubber Mat for interior of bin (used Loctite Spray Adhesive)

 

[Sir Velo]

@theOz WOW! That is an impressive setup! Definitely built to handle whatever you want to do or throw at it (RTT...???). I can totally understand doing it in stages. The tough part I had was in drilling all the holes for the plates I used. The first set I wasn't all that satisfied with because I marked the spots before drilling freehand, then I just used the plates to act as a guide after clamping them to the sidewall.

I know what I'll be doing over the holiday break next month...

 

[perkj]

Hi all,

First post here on ih8mud and wanted to keep this thread alive. Yesterday I purchased a Thule Adventure 1700 trailer and my decision to purchase was based on what I saw in this thread so thank you all that have posted. My new trailer is 2006 model year however wasn’t purchased until 2009. Bought it from the original owner and he stated it only had 1100 miles on it. It’s in beautiful condition and the seller even still had the original instruction manual. I can make a pdf of it if anyone is interested. Pic of my new trailer when I got it home below.

I’ve already got a call into Autoflex Knott and Katie is working to get me a price on a spare for it. I’ll post the price she comes back with here once I have it...she said she should have it by morning.

@theOz Im very interested in duplicating much of your rack. Hoping you can provide me 80/20 parts details (i.e. part numbers, excursion lengths, etc).

Also, @Sir Velo and @theOz - what tire size are you both running on your trailers? The 145/80-13s on mine are the originals however are hardly used given the low miles. I will need a tire for the new rim I’m attempting to source from Knott and given that a 145/80-13 is impossible to find in the US, I’m thinking I’m going to need to purchase 3 new tires so they all match so interested to hear what tire size you all are running.

@Sir Velo do you have the part numbers for the bearing and seals you purchased from Trailer Tek?

Finally, I’d like to start a community of sorts for owners of these trailers so we can share ideas, where to source spare parts, etc. I’ll begin to consolidate finding from this thread into a single source to get started. Hope to have this done in the next day or two.

Thanks again for all that have posted to this thread and I’m looking forward to having some fun with the family with this trailer!!

Jason

 

[tinyfrogs]

I’d be interested in that PDF!

 

[Sir Velo]

@perkj Welcome to the club! And congrats on the clean Thule!

Concerning the tires, I seem to recall that I found the OEM size on Amazon and was going to buy them but before I made my final decision, they were gone! So I went with some Carlisle 175/80r13's, the only caveat is that the fenders will rub and require both moving them upward and shaving off the corners (if you leave them in place, the tire will do this for you! lol). Have you heard back from Auto-Knott? I would be interested in a spare rim if they have any deals going.

As far as the Trailer Tek parts numbers, I have this from the invoice:

Bearing kit for AL-KO 1637mm taper roller drum
Sku: BRG120

I can look them up when I get home if you need.

I'd also be one for a pdf as well when you 're able to pass it along.

Cheers!

 

[perkj]

@Sir Velo thanks for the reply!

I did here back from Katiie from Auto-Knott. She said they normally stock the rim w/tire (can't get a bare rim) but they are currently out of stock so she is going to order some more. She said she will be getting in contact with their counter parts in Europe to get the current pricing and she will be getting back to me. If you'd like to PM me your email address, I'll include you in a response back to her so she knows others are interested.

For the 175/80r13s to fit, rather then raise the fender higher, I'm like going to raise/lift the frame itself from the axle by 2-4 inches. It'll be pretty simple to do as I can add 2x2 2x3 or 2x4" piece of steel or aluminum square/rectangle tubing (at 9" length) in between the axle and the frame...see the area in the red circle in the attached photo below. I"m going to mock it up with wood blocks first to see whether to go 2, 3, or 4" lift.

If you can get me all the part numbers for the seals and bearings I'd appreciate it. I'll get the instructions scanned and make them available for you and others.

Question: what lift struts did you end up getting? I'd like something with more lift capacity the the factory 45 lbs...mine seem very weak too and need replacing. I see one guy earlier in the post went with 90 lbs'ers but didn't include any type of part number.