1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

New Thule Trailer

Discussion in 'Trailer Tech' started by VA Runner, Apr 29, 2007.

  1. perkj

    perkj

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2018
    Location:
    California
    Any one in the Northeast looking for one of these trailers, here is a nice looking one for only $495: THULE Utility trailer n1205 Adventure Series
     
  2. perkj

    perkj

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2018
    Location:
    California
    @Sir Velo hoping you might be able to take some more detailed pictures of your 80/20 rack set up. What I'm most interested in is:

    1. to see how you attached the 4 upright bars to the lid....some close ups of both the interior and exterior of the lid attachment points would be most desired. It also looks like the front and back attach differently as it looks like the frame under the lid is sloped, so I'd like to see both mounting points.
    2. What size bolts did you use to bolt the uprights to the lid? I'm assuming M6x1.00 or 1/4-20? If you have the lengths as we'll well that would be much appreciated also
    3. How is the 80/20 plate used to mount to the lid attached to the 80/20 bar? Did you use screw heads (counter sunk) that keep it flush with the plate so it sits flat against the lid?
    4. Looks like on the back upright there is a spacer needed on the upper two bolts. Do you have the length of that spacer handy?
     
  3. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    May 9, 2017
    Location:
    So Cal
    @perkj I will gladly take some detailed photos and give a description of some of the aspects of the design and implementation. I will do this over the weekend and post here on Monday.

    I can answer some of your questions from memory, most notably #3. So I thought about countersinking a proper screw but decided against it because I wasn't sure that my cutting on the material would adversely affect the material itself and cause weakness or a stress riser perhaps, so I just bolted it from the backside of the lid in the same fashion that theOz did with his welded plates.

    Suffice it to say though, it was a bit of a PITA to bolt together the various pieces but I enjoy a challenge. Obviously, countersinking the plate and using a flathead screw would be advantageous in this regard since the plate and upright and now one fixed piece. Also I think I used a 1/4-20 or possibly a 5/16-24, I recall wanting some beefiness.

    More on this later ;)
     
    perkj likes this.
  4. perkj

    perkj

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2018
    Location:
    California
    @Sir Velo just wanted to check in to see if you were able to get the detailed pictures?
     
  5. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    May 9, 2017
    Location:
    So Cal
    @perkj I have, I just haven't had the chance to put the details along with them together. I'm going to do that later this afternoon ;)
     
    perkj likes this.
  6. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    May 9, 2017
    Location:
    So Cal
    Alright, I think this should get the ball rolling @perkj ;) There should be enough in the pics to explain the overall design (I've also included some sketches with measurements that I used to flesh things out), I'll add some play by play and color commentary as required :)

    Fwd-Bracket-Inside.jpg

    5/16-32 bolts, the washer was needed on the middle top to compensate for length as I recall.

    Aft-bracket-Inside.jpg
    The middle hole is necessary in order to tighten the plate to the upright support member. I used helicopter tape to seal, I also got lazy with the silicone I guess, nothing on the 3 bottom bolts and I also forget the washer on that upper lefthand bolt :-/
    Fwd-Bracket-Btm.jpg

    1/4" spacers I believe.

    Aft-Bracket-Top.jpg

    The nylon spacers were cut from 1" parts and then filed a tad to accommodate the angle of the lid. The rubber gaskets while a good idea to seal, have now begun to perish in the sun and ozonated atmosphere of SoCal.

    **Since I can only add 5 at the time I'll split this into 2 replies
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018 at 11:00 AM
  7. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    May 9, 2017
    Location:
    So Cal
    Next batch...

    Ext-Side.jpg

    I wanted to try to get the bottom brackets of the bikes somewhat forward of the axle.


    00000001.jpg

    Drafting class in HS still comes in handy after all those years!
     
    LC4LIFE and perkj like this.
  8. perkj

    perkj

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2018
    Location:
    California
    @Sir Velo thanks so much for the pictures and the details...exactly what I was hoping for. One question - for the front upright is there a clear difference in "sturdiness" given that its tied into the metal lid frame completely vs the rear where its tied into the frame with two of the bolts and then the plastic lid only with the other 2? I'm debating whether or not to mount both the front and the back the same (i.e. like the rear one in your picture) or to do exactly as you have done. I'm a stickler at times for preferring things to look even, however in this case completely get why you opted to tie both set of bolts into the frame in the front....just curious is there is indeed a sturdiness difference you can tell? I also noticed that the official Brenderup rack that someone posted earlier in this thread has both going half into the frame and half into the lid like our rear one...see picture below:


    2F8F9EA6-08C1-492A-9A9C-62532675813C.jpeg


    Also my new tires arrived. I ended up going with Kenda Loadstar Karriers in a 175/80-13. These looked to have the most aggressive thread pattern (almost AT like) which I’m hoping will be helpful as a plan to use the trailer on some unpaved roads and mild trails. Ended up getting a good deal on them thru Walmart - $57 a piece & free shipping (vs $77 and free shipping from eTrailer and others). Still waiting for the new 13x4.5 rims to arrive from Germany.

    6864EA0D-3070-4EEA-8BDF-E978FDFAAC0E.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018 at 1:18 PM
    Sir Velo likes this.
  9. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    May 9, 2017
    Location:
    So Cal
    @perkj Good choice in rubber, I think my Carlise set may have a similar design but I plan on staying mostly on pavement (the Cervelo is what goes off road ;) )

    So regarding the sturdiness of the front versus the rear, I can't rightly tell any difference and to be honest I bet one could get away with the 3 lower bolts, on the simple fact that the plate is 1/4" thick and the spacing of the mounting points is not spread out, but of course having the top bolted would reduce side to side flex. I also like symmetry to design, but I wanted to tie in all 6 on the front out of an abundance of caution even though I was well aware of the Brenderup design.

    All in all it handled the 3 bikes well, and I also had my Thule hitch rack up top as well (which I won't bring this year as we'll stay in Yosemite - hopefully).
     
    perkj likes this.
  10. perkj

    perkj

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2018
    Location:
    California
    I decided to get the corners of the lid frame tied together today in prep for getting a rack mounted to it. Removing the lid is super easy (consists of removing the 2 hinge bolts and popping off the support lifts) and takes about 5 mins. I copied @Sir Velo 's method of tying the frame together, as oppose to @theOz 's method, though I will likely braces on the sides as well down the road to make it as stout as possible.

    To start here is how @Sir Velo tied his frame together from the top of the frame:

    C0B64097-C814-485F-9EFA-E769FED5AB96.jpeg

    ...and now here is how @theOz tied his frame from the side:

    FD5E00FE-77C3-4675-A0B4-B85212BAA072.jpeg

    Here are pictures from looking from both the bottom and top of the lid to show how I tied mine together:


    0CD6256A-9C61-4F97-B854-C88D2C8A61D4.jpeg

    27D129E9-A173-48E7-8D5F-FCC13AE3DCDF.jpeg

    7DFD3872-9FF7-4E76-BBD8-0507CABBD27D.jpeg

    For those interested, here is the parts list from McMaster Carr for doing this:
    • L-Shape Flat-Surface Bracket with 5" Long Sides: McMaster-Carr
    • 18-8 Stainless Steel Phillips Flat Undercut Head Screws Passivated, 8-32 Thread Size, 5/8" Long: McMaster-Carr
    • 18-8 Stainless Steel Cap Nut 8-32 Thread Size: McMaster-Carr
    • 18-8 Stainless Steel Oversized Washer for Number 8 Screw Size, 0.172" ID, 0.5" OD: McMaster-Carr
     
    Sir Velo likes this.
  11. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    May 9, 2017
    Location:
    So Cal
    @perkj Spot on!

    For whatever reason I didn't use flathead screws (I want to say that I couldn't find any at HD, which is odd) and used panhead because I was impatient in getting the thing done. Doing so necessitated adding a rubber (likely vinyl composition) bumper to each corner of the rear lid as the screwheads rubbed into the top of the box, it also required that I re-position the lock. After all was said and done though I was happy that the lid felt more secure and wasn't rattling nearly as much. I also think the lid is pretty stout now, do you think the additional braces are necessary or just overkill?
     
    perkj likes this.
  12. perkj

    perkj

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2018
    Location:
    California
    @Sir Velo I definitely think the additional braces aren't necessary. Last night when I was measuring for what the additional bracket would need to be I realized that as it is now is extremely stout and doesn't need to be immediately addressed. I'll likely only add them if: (1) I find that after installing the rack and having weight on the rack I find that the frame begins to twist, distort or deflect in any way -OR- (2) I find myself really bored at some point and aching to do something....lol.

    I would be very interested to see some pictures of the "bumpers" you added to the lid to prevent the lid for shifting at all, as well as how you repositioned the lock.

    I did receive good news this morning that my shipment from Knott will be arriving today, which includes the new 4.5x13" rims along with a few sets of hub bearing and seals. Hopefully I be able to get the tires mounted on them this week. New fender are looking like they will arrive by mid-week as well. I ended up getting both sizes of fenders from trailer-fenders.com to be able to try both sizes out. I'll post some pictures as soon as everything is here and ready to install.
     
    Sir Velo likes this.
  13. perkj

    perkj

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2018
    Location:
    California
    The new 13x4.5 rims arrived from Knott-Germany today with enough time for me to get them mounted as well. I must say Knott packed the rims and all of the other parts extremely well!
    8421D038-4ABC-4248-8E3E-B0B53DF22A29.jpeg

    To my surprised one sets of the fenders showed up as well from Trailer-Fenders.com . The "smaller" of the two I ordered arrived and these are the same length (front to back) as the stock trailers, but are 15mm wider (Black Plastic Universal Trailer Fender - 26" for 13 Inch Tires). As you'll see below they are a perfect match for the 175/80-13s. The mounting holes on the fenders lined right up with mount holes on the trailer and there was no need to do anything to them other than to bolt them to the trailer. No need to reposition the fenders in any way as @Sir Velo needed to do with the OEM stock fenders. The larger set of fenders are set to arrive on Wed and I'll test that one out on the other side of the trailer to see which I prefer, but right now I can say these are perfect.

    92C6BA15-6E5A-44FE-B629-252D034FCB8D.jpeg

    2D0E6AE4-9AB8-467C-8390-BBDFDE3892F4.jpeg

    55E92B38-3BC2-46C3-805A-BF8E6256168D.jpeg

    5DF83D8A-8C62-4D6C-B533-75CF10C35368.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2018 at 12:25 AM
    Sir Velo likes this.
  14. Sir Velo

    Sir Velo

    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    May 9, 2017
    Location:
    So Cal
    @perkj Nice! I've not yet ordered a rim from Knott, and have been on the fence with getting a fender from them. I just haven't had the chance to measure out the dimensions for the ones from Knott to determine if I'd like them or not (Knott?) since they are longer I think. The rim will work on my spindle though as it's about 55mm or so but not over 57mm.