New Thule Trailer (1 Viewer)

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@perkj

I bought the struts from Siraweb.com , man did it take some time to find those! Here's the info from the invoice I have on hand:

23" Stabilus Lift Support SG120001 for Trunk/Hatch

Here's the page for that part:

23" Stabilus Lift Support SG120001 for Trunk/Hatch

It will lift the lid with the rack plus one bike and hold.

As for the fenders, what I'd really like is a longer and wider fender to accommodate the taller/wider tire. It was easy to elongate the existing mounting holes on the fender to allow the top of the fender to easily clear, it's the bottom outside corners that are the problem. They catch the shoulder of the tire.
 
@perkj I'm not able to connect to the assembly instructions pdf, the others work fine.

Also here are the numbers for the bearings and seal:

Inner

L45449 (bearing)
L45410 (shell/race)

Outer

LM11749 (brg)
LM11710 (shell/race)

Seal: 40 52 7
 
@perkj I'm not able to connect to the assembly instructions pdf, the others work fine.

@Sir Velo Which of the two "assembly" instructions are you having trouble with...the Thule one or the Brenderup? I just tried all three link from a separate computer that I wasn't logged into Google with and all three worked. What is the message you're getting when you attempt to access?

Also, thank you for those part numbers!
 
@perkj It's working now, it was the Thule instructions though. Probably something on my end as I am at work. Thanks for the files (and the inclusion on the email to Katie).
 
@Sir Velo - how did you determine the bearing sizes? I ask because back on post 57 of the thread (New Thule Trailer) someone pointed out that the following bearings & races from Napa worked on his axle: Outer bearing and race # is BR30204 & Inner bearing and race # is BR30206.

The specs on the outer BR30204 are ID= 19.99mm and OD= 46.99mm
The specs on the inner BR30206 are ID= 29.99mm and OD= 57mm

The bearings you posted from TrailerTek are as follows:
Outer bearing no. 11749. ID=17.45 OD=39.80mm
Inner bearing no. 45449. ID=29mm, OD=50.40mm

What has me questioning your part numbers for use in my axle is that the OD of my hub cap is 47mm which matches the OD of the outer bearing for the Napa part number. Can you measure the OD of the hub cap? Just measure the OD of the cap (not the hub itself) that protrudes out of the rim center hole...see picture below for that I mean. Measure the bottom most portion of the cap closest to the hub before the small lip.
1091A4DA-8F70-44B4-B0A8-AC942E5F6550.jpeg

Also do your hub cap have "KNOTT" stamped on it? I know my trailer was a 2006 model year, however was not first sold until 2009. The guy that posted the Napa part numbers also had a 2006 trailer. Do you know the year of yours? Wondering is they may have changed hubs in later years. Also see the second picture of my axle part number. Can you snap a photo of yours so we can compare part numbers?

8BDB2FB6-CF06-4153-90DB-8CC40AC4A65B.jpeg
 
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@Sir Velo - Thanks so much for sending the pictures. Interesting to see that Thule/Brenderup switched axles at some point in their production run. I guess good to know we now have 2 sources for new axles should we every need replacement....however if I ever have to replace mine I'll like go with a US axle of some sort with SAE hubs, etc to make finding rims easier ;) To answer one of the questions from the email you sent me - I believe the hub nut on my axle is a standard crown nuts as back on post 57 of this thread the person who changed his seals stated there was a crown nut with cotter pin.

I did separately reach out to both Knott GmbH in Germany and Hungry and received the following responses from them overnight. The good news is both responded with the same part numbers/specs:

Knott GmbH - Germany:

Part-nr. KNOTT:
  • 401547.001 grease seal
  • 6BA455.002 hub cap
  • D937.007 crown nut
  • 405048.001 bearing 30204 / D=47 d=20 H=15,25mm
  • 405048.003 bearing 30206 / D=62 d=30 H=17,25mm
He also attached the 6A2013v3.pdf I attached here.
Knott GmbH - Hungry:
  • Bearings: 30204 and 30206 (1-1 pc/side)
  • grease seal: D=38/D=60 -- 8 mm
  • Ring: D=62/D=38,5 -- 4 mm
  • hub cap D=47 mm (6B0277)
  • crown nut: M18x1,5
  • splint DIN94 D=4x25
He also included the 6A1987H.pdf I attached here.

 

Attachments

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@perkj Wow, good news! I concur on replacing the axle with something that is SAE, at present though I will have to just trudge along with this metric stuff.

Concerning the spindle nut, mine looks something like this:

81k5LChtSQL._SL1500_.jpg


To keep it "locked" you have to peen the side into the slotted spindle end which was difficult, there must be some tool for the job I'm not aware (besides a hammer and a punch or screwdriver) There were a host of issues I ran into reusing the original nuts (which was necessary as I was not able to source anything locally), but I was able to make them secure enough to my satisfaction. A crown nut and a cotter pin won't work because the end is slotted, though I could drill through the side of the nut and use a cotter pin I guess?
 
That looks like a stake nut. Basically you'd just get a center punch with a point that will somewhat fit into the slot and then just wack it with a hammer to get it to deform within the slotted area. Do you know what size the nut is?

Found this video that shows how to do it with a specialty stake nut tool:
 
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@perkj Ha! Yeah, no one I showed it to had that degree of understanding. Thanks for the lesson ;)

So regarding the size, I haven't yet been able to determine that though I have the one I got from NAPA that had a cap that fit on top of the spindle nut and essentially holds the cotter pin in place. I foolishly installed one because it was new and the original was not letting me 'restake' it as the side wall of the stake area is pretty thick, you'd need the damn air tool to stake it properly. In the end I persevered in using a hammer and screwdriver and rolled on.
 
@Sir Velo wanted to pass this along to you. I found some rims that are readily available as I was placing my order for hub bearings and seals from Knott: Steel rims 13" high quality trailer rims - Knott GmbH

I ended up ordering 3 of the 4.5x13 4x100 (400220.001). I went this route verses just ordering an additional 4x13 4x100 (which they also have) because the smallest available trailer tire in the US is a 175/80-13 (which I believe you have) and all of them call for a min of a 4.5x13" rim. I measured the offset of my existing 4x13 and they are ET30. Also the center hole is 57mm (You will want to check your hub center hole on your rim to ensure its 57mm). Shipping from Germany isn't too bad on them....with the conversion from Euro to USD the total for 3 with shipping comes to roughly $209 or $70 for each rim. I also ordered a number bearings, seals, hub caps, castle nuts, etc which only drove the shipping cost up 3 Euros (vs 31 Euros if I ordered them without the rims, so I maximized shipping cost). Believe it or not but I placed the order last night at around 10pm and I received a notice this morning that everything shipped already via DHL! I suspect I'll have them by end of the week.

I also found some new fenders here in the US. These are 200mm wide vs the 185mm as is on our stock ones and the length is the same (within 2-3mm): Black Plastic Universal Trailer Fender - 26" for 12-13 Inch Tires
They also offer an even wider fender at 220mm wide and this one is also roughly 90mm longer: Black Plastic Universal Trailer Fender - 30" for 13-14 Inch Tires . I mocked up both with cardboard and I just felt the 220 stuck out too much. I suspect the 200mm with the additional 15mm in width will be perfect with the 175/70-13s.

Finally I found a source for replacement parts on the trailer itself....its Trailertek.com which you are already familiar with. Here is a link to the "Brenderup" search on their page that brings up all the Brenderup spare parts. Our trailer is a 1205 so anything labeled as for the 1205 or the 1000 Series will be the parts for our trailer: Search results for: 'brenderup' - Trailertek


BTW - here is the spec sheet on your AL-KO axle: http://www.al-ko.co.uk/assets/comprehensive-catalogue/files/assets/downloads/page0089.pdf
 
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@perkj You are the man!

Yeah I'm looking through the Knott site, I may just buy the rim and fenders from them if it's all reasonable enough. I will check the center hole as mentioned before dropping the coin on any orders. Where did you find the castle nuts on their site? I can't seem to locate them.

I still need to get the stands that theOz is using as well as the brilliant storage boxes underneath.
 
@Sir Velo question for you - what is the length of your 80/20 upright bars that attach to the lid? Which 80/20 series did you use? Also, do you recall the spacer width needed for the back bar for attaching to the lid? Did you use M6 bolts or something else to bolt it to the lid? Finally what is the spread width of the two bars (i.e. front to back)?
 
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@perkj You are the man!

Yeah I'm looking through the Knott site, I may just buy the rim and fenders from them if it's all reasonable enough. I will check the center hole as mentioned before dropping the coin on any orders. Where did you find the castle nuts on their site? I can't seem to locate them.

I still need to get the stands that theOz is using as well as the brilliant storage boxes underneath.

For the castle nut, I just searched on the Knott number they provided to me in their email response: D937.007 its a M18x1.5. I suspect you'll want to find the proper AL-KO nut since my Knott axle does have a cotter pin. This may be yours as its the only axle nut TrailerTek offers for AL-KO and its a M16x1.5: AL-KO hub nut special B for stub axles without split pin - Trailertek.

I was going to order the fenders as well from Knott, but the site's checkout wouldn't let me add me add them to the shipping with my 3 rims (it may for just 1 rim). I suspect the package would end up being too large so they were forcing a separate order to be placed. The price ended up being better from the other company in the US verses submitting a separate order as the shipping cost was too much to make it worth while.

I'm also going to be getting the stands for the 4 corners....I have one of them due to arrive today to attach to the A-Frame to use instead of a jockey wheel (copied this from @theOz as well...see pic below). I like the storage bin set up as well. My next task is the rack...pls see my questions in the previous post above.

E974F85A-CCB2-4FB8-9A8D-883087CAE07C.jpeg
 
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@Sir Velo question for you - what is the length of your 80/20 upright bars that attach to the lid? Which 80/20 series did you use? Also, do you recall the spacer width needed for the back bar for attaching to the lid? Did you use M6 bolts or something else to bolt it to the lid? Finally what is the spread width of the two bars (i.e. front to back)?

I sent you a pdf with the parts list, it doesn't show the description of each item but to answer 2 of your questions, the uprights I had cut to 20" and I used the 15 series to create the rack.
 
@Sir Velo thanks for sending the PDF. I'll have a look at it tonight. When you get a chance can you measure the distance between the two upright bars on one of the sides? I recall @theOz stating he had his too far apart and yours look much closer together so wanted to get a sense of the actual measurement between the two that you have.
 
@Sir Velo thanks for sending the PDF. I'll have a look at it tonight. When you get a chance can you measure the distance between the two upright bars on one of the sides? I recall @theOz stating he had his too far apart and yours look much closer together so wanted to get a sense of the actual measurement between the two that you have.

Off the top of my head I think I made them around 30" or so, this was based on the bike carrier trays and an average wheel base of the bike I was going to carry. As I recall that was my criteria. I remember spending too much time considering the design of the rack lol But measure 10x and cut/drill once I always say!
 

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