New Suspension, But Something Isn’t Right. (1 Viewer)

[SandyGX]

So after waiting many months for parts to arrive, I finally installed my Dobinson’s IMS and SPC UCAs. I also put on some new wheels. I followed the Ironman 4x4 video but my install didn’t go nearly as smooth. Yesterday I thought I heard squeaking from the front passenger side and today I confirmed it and added some more grease to the fitting on the UCA, both sides. I can’t say if the squeaking is gone because I only drove it very briefly afterwards with my wife and wasn’t listening for it.

This is not the entirety of my problem though, I wish it was. Immediately after I was done with suspension install, I had my wife turn the wheels back and forth so I could see where I had to trim the fender liners. Maybe two cycles in, while watching the passenger side, there was a bang and the wheels kind of jolted. I knew that was weird but I thought that it may have been some part settling into place because it didn’t repeat itself and I couldn’t see anything wrong. That same day, I went and got and an alignment and everything seemed fine. GX felt great and I was very happy with the ride.

Fast forward to tonight. As my wife and I were driving back home, I was exiting a parking lot and turned my wheel while at a stop. It felt/sounded like the same bang I witnessed when my wife was turning the wheels for me. Then, as we were on the road home I noticed my steering wheel was off center while going straight. Maybe about 10-15 degrees off. Which to me, seems like a severe alignment issue.

So some details that my shed some light on my problems. During the install, I had to detach the front sway bar to get the new coilovers in. I read that I would regret taking them off because KDSS would make it very difficult to get back on, but I literally could not get the clearance without detaching it. I had to do this both sides. The driver side was insanely difficult to get on but the experience made it so I was ready to do the passenger side and it wasn’t too bad. Secondly, I wasn’t able to torque everything down to the exact specs. My torque wrench/socket made reaching somethings impossible so I just tightened those parts as tight as I could; possibly (probably) over torquing.

So to conclude, I’m curious what could be causing my issues. The squeaking I’m much less concerned about because I could just go back and try lubricate everything but any advice on specific areas to target would be great. The bang and misaligned steering wheel have me much more concerned. Any ideas on what’s going on there would be great.

 

[re_guderian]

How does the truck handle after the steering wheel change? Are the tires visibly "aligned"? Have you put it up on jack stands, taken off the wheels, and given it a good inspection? Depending on who did the alignment, their experience with SPC UCAs, and your comment about torque, my immediate thought is to check the big nut on top of the upper ball joint, and see if it moved. IIRC, it's supposed to be at 150 ft/lbs, which is A LOT. Did an upper ball joint let loose?

 

[Jstawgn]

Might be the alignment place did not torque the SPC UCA properly. Camber would change toe and explain why you have to correct steering 10-15°

KDSS is a pain when you do not know the sequence.
1. It need to be done at ride height.
2. Bolt the lower bolt first and use pointy prybar to get the upper bolt in place
3. Bolt to the cylinder
4. Jack the cylinder slowly to meet the fixed part.
5. Bolt the fixed link.
I can reinstall mine in 5 minutes now.

 

[SandyGX]

How does the truck handle after the steering wheel change? Are the tires visibly "aligned"? Have you put it up on jack stands, taken off the wheels, and given it a good inspection? Depending on who did the alignment, their experience with SPC UCAs, and your comment about torque, my immediate thought is to check the big nut on top of the upper ball joint, and see if it moved. IIRC, it's supposed to be at 150 ft/lbs, which is A LOT. Did an upper ball joint let loose?

I think you may have just solved it. I took a quick look just now and the U-Shaped piece underneath the top bolt that allows caster adjustment has shifted its angle. I’ll take it to a different alignment place and ask if they can handle. Question though. If I wanted to fix piece bolt and torque it down myself… would I have to still have all 4 jacked up and wheels off, or could I just do that one corner?

 

[SandyGX]

Might be the alignment place did not torque the SPC UCA properly. Camber would change toe and explain why you have to correct steering 10-15°

KDSS is a pain when you do not know the sequence.
1. It need to be done at ride height.
2. Bolt the lower bolt first and use pointy prybar to get the upper bolt in place
3. Bolt to the cylinder
4. Jack the cylinder slowly to meet the fixed part.
5. Bolt the fixed link.
I can reinstall mine in 5 minutes now.

I looks like this is exactly the problem. I’ll give an update after I go to a new alignment place

 

[r2m]

The only time I've had my steering go wanky as you describe it is once when the urethane bushing from the left upper UCA wore out and another time when I knocked out the bolt to the rear control arm going through a rock garden. Both times it caused my steering to be off.
But considering neither of those conditions would have caused your issues... Hummm.
Just for giggles, are your rear control arms all bolted in??

As for the squeaking, maybe have your wife stay low to the tire to listen while you bounce each corner fender up and down and see if you can duplicate the squeak.
It'd be better to isolate the squeak and address that by itself than just throwing grease at everything. Too much grease will attract dust and dirt which can cause more wear on components.

 

[re_guderian]

I looks like this is exactly the problem. I’ll give an update after I go to a new alignment place

I think you may have just solved it. I took a quick look just now and the U-Shaped piece underneath the top bolt that allows caster adjustment has shifted its angle. I’ll take it to a different alignment place and ask if they can handle. Question though. If I wanted to fix piece bolt and torque it down myself… would I have to still have all 4 jacked up and wheels off, or could I just do that one corner?

See if this makes sense, maybe post up pictures of the tops of the upper ball joint assemblies from both sides. The "star plate" and the star-shaped splines at the bottom of the threaded stud keep the "U-shaped" piece in position relative to the arm. It would have to be pretty sloppy for that to change. However, if the upper nut was not torqued down, the assembly could side in/out with steering forces, which would screw up your alignment.

 

[SandyGX]

See if this makes sense, maybe post up pictures of the tops of the upper ball joint assemblies from both sides. The "star plate" and the star-shaped splines at the bottom of the threaded stud keep the "U-shaped" piece in position relative to the arm. It would have to be pretty sloppy for that to change. However, if the upper nut was not torqued down, the assembly could side in/out with steering forces, which would screw up your alignment.


View attachment 2719680Yes that is what I’m referring to as the U shaped piece. When I installed, both sides were at the “D” position. Now the passenger seems to be at an “E”. I could take it apart and reset it, but I’m curious if I would have to lift all 4 corners for KDSS or would the one side be ok

 

[re_guderian]

I would not assume that was the problem and reset that to "D" before ruling out the horizontal position in the slot of the entire assembly. To reset that would significantly change your alignment, and there's a (small) chance the alignment shop did that on purpose. For it to jump an entire position on the star washer by coming loose would require significant vertical play in the ball joint stud, and the nut to be visibly loose. I would think the entire assembly would move laterally in the slot long before it would jump a position on the star nut. In other words, I don't see you getting this fixed without taking it back to an alignment shop that knows their way around SPC control arms. I mean, you could just set everything back to where it was before, but you have no idea if that's the correct alignment numbers or not, so you'd still have to go to a shop. Again, with your steering wheel suddenly moving off center, my guess is the joint slid in or out on one side or another, and to return to correct alignment is going to take a shop. Maybe the popping was it jumping a setting, but if it was that loose, it would also slide laterally. Back to a different, better alignment place.

 

[SandyGX]

I would not assume that was the problem and reset that to "D" before ruling out the horizontal position in the slot of the entire assembly. To reset that would significantly change your alignment, and there's a (small) chance the alignment shop did that on purpose. For it to jump an entire position on the star washer by coming loose would require significant vertical play in the ball joint stud, and the nut to be visibly loose. I would think the entire assembly would move laterally in the slot long before it would jump a position on the star nut. In other words, I don't see you getting this fixed without taking it back to an alignment shop that knows their way around SPC control arms. I mean, you could just set everything back to where it was before, but you have no idea if that's the correct alignment numbers or not, so you'd still have to go to a shop. Again, with your steering wheel suddenly moving off center, my guess is the joint slid in or out on one side or another, and to return to correct alignment is going to take a shop. Maybe the popping was it jumping a setting, but if it was that loose, it would also slide laterally. Back to a different, better alignment place.

I see what you mean. To be honest I don’t know if the alignment shop I brought it to was the best qualified. They were the only ones who were available on a Sunday afternoon. I’ll wait and take it to one of the better ones and have them take a look. Thanks for advice

 

[re_guderian]

Stick your cell phone in the wheel well, and take a picture looking down at the nut in question, and its position in the slot, and you'll know for sure what's up. If both sides are centered, your issue may lie elsewhere. I hear you on alignment shops. Ones around here that come highly recommended for lifted trucks are booking several days to a week out. That's one of the reasons (besides being cheap) that I went with the Freedom Off Road UCA's, there no camber adjustment bolt/nut to confuse the kid doing the alignment...

 

[SandyGX]

Stick your cell phone in the wheel well, and take a picture looking down at the nut in question, and its position in the slot, and you'll know for sure what's up. If both sides are centered, your issue may lie elsewhere. I hear you on alignment shops. Ones around here that come highly recommended for lifted trucks are booking several days to a week out. That's one of the reasons (besides being cheap) that I went with the Freedom Off Road UCA's, there no camber adjustment bolt/nut to confuse the kid doing the alignment...

you’re spot on with your assessment. The bolt is sitting in different positions on either side. Sorry to be redundant but should I try correct this on my own, or is this something I should have the alignment shop adjust?

driver:

Passenger:

 

[re_guderian]

you’re spot on with your assessment. The bolt is sitting in different positions on either side. Sorry to be redundant but should I try correct this on my own, or is this something I should have the alignment shop adjust?

driver:
View attachment 2719729

Passenger:
View attachment 2719730

Looks like the passenger side ball joint has slid all the way inboard. You can see the paint marring. That might have been the "pop" you heard. Can't imagine they had to put it there to get camber in spec. Is your steering wheel offset clockwise?

 

[SandyGX]

Looks like the passenger side ball joint has slid all the way inboard. You can see the paint marring. That might have been the "pop" you heard. Can't imagine they had to put it there to get camber in spec. Is your steering wheel offset clockwise?

No, it’s offset counter clockwise. The top of the wheel is at 10:30-11.

 

[SandyGX]

So unfortunately, I’m still having a small issue regarding my suspension. I took it to a different alignment. Had them correct it and told them about upper bolt on the UCA that needs 150lbs. Bought a larger torque wrench and double checked myself. Everything seems right.

The problem is now when I go over some bumps, it sounds like something is slamming/banging excessively. It doesn’t happen on speed bumps. Only when I go over parts of the road that would cause the suspension to rebound.

I’ve already looked under and tried shaking different areas but can’t identify anything loose. I’m going to bite the bullet and just wait the couple weeks and pay the money for my reputable mechanic if I can’t figure this out soon.

Question is: is there any area a tech doing an alignment could have loosened that wouldn’t be obvious. I can try get a video with the noise later if that would help. Should also note, the GX feels great, better than stock and the steering doesn’t feel loose. It rides straight so the alignment seems to have been done properly in my very uninformed opinion.

 

[BigSwede]

Sometimes it is something as simple as the lower shock mount needing more tightening. Sometimes.

 

[Jstawgn]

The UCA bolt to the frame might be loose. That is kinda hard to torque properly and a few occasions it was not tightened correctly and can cause occasional clunking.

KDSS bushing can also cause this noise. When they are worn it would create just enough slop to make the noise.

 

[re_guderian]

So unfortunately, I’m still having a small issue regarding my suspension. I took it to a different alignment. Had them correct it and told them about upper bolt on the UCA that needs 150lbs. Bought a larger torque wrench and double checked myself. Everything seems right.

The problem is now when I go over some bumps, it sounds like something is slamming/banging excessively. It doesn’t happen on speed bumps. Only when I go over parts of the road that would cause the suspension to rebound.

I’ve already looked under and tried shaking different areas but can’t identify anything loose. I’m going to bite the bullet and just wait the couple weeks and pay the money for my reputable mechanic if I can’t figure this out soon.

Question is: is there any area a tech doing an alignment could have loosened that wouldn’t be obvious. I can try get a video with the noise later if that would help. Should also note, the GX feels great, better than stock and the steering doesn’t feel loose. It rides straight so the alignment seems to have been done properly in my very uninformed opinion.

@SandyGX - did you ever resolve this?