New Ring and Pinion Front and Rear

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It isn't a problem with the master cylinder problem; it is an adjustment problem.

You might be surprised how good the brakes are when they are properly adjusted and it doesn't cost anything. Most people have never driven a car that has manual adjusters, so people tend the think the brakes are bad when they only need routine adjustment.
 
What type of adjusting are you referring to? How would I go about doing this??
 
I am talking about adjusting the wheel cylinders so that the brake shoes are closer to the drum so that you don't have to pump the pedal twice to stop. You need to do it about every 5,000 miles.

Here you go. It is about half way down the page:
Land Cruiser Drum Brakes

you tighten them until you can't turn the wheel and then back off 3 "clicks". There are two adjusters per wheel
 
God Steve, love your replies strait to the point no bullsh##t. Enjoyed your postings for years and must thank you for doing so.

Rob


Oh it is a process. Just be thankful that these Land Cruiser college credits are not costing you another 4.88 gear set.... ;)






4.88 gears are commonly installed into the Land Cruiser semi-float rear axle. You still need to modify a tooth on the ring gear in order to get the spider gear pinion shaft into the carrier, but you are not removing anywhere near the same amount of the ring gear tooth compared to the 5.29.


There are people who have installed the 5.29 gear set into the semi-float differentials, but I will not do it.





I was going to ask you how well the single reservoir/circuit drum brake system works for stopping 38.5s?
 
Awesome.. I've never adjusted Drum Brakes before; I will definitely do that.. Thanks for the pointer!
 
Thanks for the input Poser. As far as the congratulations on the broken junk, I'm really not all that proud of it, I just was putting up a picture so the break could be seen. Initially something else came to mind when axle-wrap was mentioned earlier but now I understand what was meant. And I absolutely agree with the fact that something needs to be done to prevent the axle from rotating under load. I honestly haven't taken it out wheeling but twice in the last eight months because of work, college, and other business; and even then I tried not to push it too hard. Until this happened I guess I hadn't put too much thought into the axle-wrap issue with all the other kinks I've been trying to get worked out. Would 4:88 gears be ok with the semi-floater?? Thanks for the help.
Howdy! Don't feel all alone out there. I busted mine nearly the same way, about 8 years ago. I pulled a busted FJ40 up a hill that was about a 3.0 or 3.5. I nearly had him to the top, but I suddenly grabbed some traction at both axles, went up in the air a bit, came down before I could get out of the throttle, and BOOM!. My rear axle wrapped up so far that it snapped the pinion between the inner and outer bearings, shot my rear driveshaft about 50 yards out into the woods, and jambed my pinion gear between the ring and the housing, leaving me in perma-park. That got to be a mighty long day!! I fabbed up an anti-wrap bar before I ever went out to the boonies again. Good Luck. John
 
Also, what company or brand would anyone suggest for 5:29's or 4.88's??

I like Precision. Very happy with them.

I used to get Yukon from Randy's until they sent me some lo grade Chinese gears instead (without telling me) and wouldnt refund.

I wouldnt fit 5:29 personally - seen too many broken because the pinion gets too big. sure someone else will fill in the tech side of why this causes breakages. But it does seem too.
 

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