New Rig, need drive shaft and maybe more?

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If the rust or lack there of is manageable you can overcome the rest.

Great advice above but...step one, verify it actually has locking diff axles and that the PO didn't swap the axles into another truck.

If he did, it's time to roast him.
 
MoJ said:
If the rust or lack there of is manageable you can overcome the rest.

Great advice above but...step one, verify it actually has locking diff axles and that the PO didn't swap the axles into another truck.

If he did, it's time to roast him.
Click to expand...
Rust doesn't seem too bad considering #Chicago... But yes I agree, I need to get the drivetrain in line.

So I looked at the front diff and compared it to the service manual. It looks to be locking, but as said before the internals may have been removed.

IMG_1708.webp
 
With the other 2 diff lights not showing, I am thinking the axles were swapped. The light on the dash could be out but it would be extremely rare, it's not like the 'D' light that is on all the time and is prone to going out. In general, lockers are not used all that much compared to the rest of the truck.

Do you have the actuator on the rear diff? It's a cylinder-like shape, kinda like a small can of soup with a shield around it. I wouldn't be surprised if you don't. If that is the case, the PO knew EXACTLY what they were doing.
 
At this point who knows what the PO did. For a factory configured 80 that is able to drive, with the front drive shaft removed, either the center diff needs to be lock or the viscous coupler needs to be activated via slippage or has failed and permanently seized. When you first start out is their any slippage you can detect? It should be very noticeable. You may need to drive another 80 to compare or get someone to drive yours.

Now there are a number of things the PO could have done to hide all the problems. With the CDL and ABS lights turning on that could be good if the PO didn't mess with the stock wiring. He could have moved the wiring for the CDL indicator that normally is on the front side of the transfer case and hooked it up to the 4 Low Position switch which is on the rear extension of the transfer case. You need to turn off the engine, leave the ignition on and shift to 4 Low. If you hear relay's clicking and briefly the whirling sound of a motor. Then the CDL is more than likely intact. If not assuming the worst you could be missing wiring harness, Diff Lock ECU. Which added to broken diff, missing or broken birfields, bad drive flanges could wind up costing just as much as you paid initially.

You really need an inspection of the entire vehicle, determine everything missing and broken before you make any further investments or decisions.

Earlier you made a statement that this might be a learning experience. It will be no matter what but that still doesn't mean that you should not take the PO to at minimum small claims court. If the guy is local I would take him to court without question.
 
I personally have looked at a cruiser that was being sold on CL. It was advertised as having lockers. I looked at the vin door tag and it was legit. Had the switch and then looked at the axles. No diff locks. Seller was assured me it had lockers to my face. I bet someone bought it.

I still don't know why everyone makes such a big deal about having factory lockers. Im beating a dead horse here. Either budget another $6k or cut your losses especially if you haven't gone through the engine yet.
 
bulldog8934 said:
Well looks like I got the shaft! :censor:

Just put the truck on a lift and spun the front tire. No dice on the other one, they just spin freely. Also spun the driveshaft connector at the front diff and it spins freely until it gets to a certain point then "locks" up.

Any thoughts? I am pretty much at a loss now.
Click to expand...


I sad to say "I told you so" from the beginning :(

your are missing your front Dif (original Toyota ELOOK dif is expensive)

i personally would not start with this one and i would try to cut my looses and run
 
Rwhat said:
I personally have looked at a cruiser that was being sold on CL. It was advertised as having lockers. I looked at the vin door tag and it was legit. Had the switch and then looked at the axles. No diff locks. Seller was assured me it had lockers to my face. I bet someone bought it.

I still don't know why everyone makes such a big deal about having factory lockers. Im beating a dead horse here. Either budget another $6k or cut your losses especially if you haven't gone through the engine yet.
Click to expand...

The guy didn't lie it had lockers just does not have them any more.

The big deal isn't about lockers. It the fact the seller misrepresented the vehicle to the tune of a lot of expensive parts.
 
ppc said:
The guy didn't lie it had lockers just does not have them any more.

The big deal isn't about lockers. It the fact the seller misrepresented the vehicle to the tune of a lot of expensive parts.
Click to expand...

Buyer beware. "A fool and his money are soon parted".

80's got popular over the years and they are at a premium now. If you don't do your own diligence in pre purchase inspection and trust a strangers word your going to gamble. I do think the big deal is the lockers. People get focused on them and let the LC bug bite them. I bet there is a percentage of new buyers that buy one and join here and realize they got fxxxed without lube.
 
Rwhat said:
You ben drinking too or just autoscorrect?
Click to expand...

sorry about that English is not my language


I am using expensive artificial intelligence software
But it was early morning before coffee and pep talk with my camel soo

In any case let me compensate you with a joke you will love

Whats between making love in a Kano and drinking American USA beer?

now i remember last time i used this joke in a cabin bikers bar in Colorado mountains it didnt turn so nice for me
but what the heck it is still funny
 
Ok, throwing something else out here. If I am looking at a few thousand to dump in to make this right, would I be better off spending that amount of money at some trail upgrades for the same parts? So the wife really likes the truck and has gotten attached to it. Maybe this is a blessing in disguise that she would be ok with these fixes that are also upgrades! :)
 
1997 Toyota Land Cruiser Landcruiser Black FZJ80

Keep the one you have as a parts truck. Ask a mudder in LA to look at this one for you. And give them a few bucks for their time.

Chalk it up as a learning experience.

Or drive the existing one as is and fix what you can when you can.
 
Rwhat said:
Why would he need a D.C. Shaft?
Click to expand...


First page I believe he said 2-4" lift was in the future. DC shaft has helped people with a 3-4" with vibes.....and since he has NO front shaft whatsoever, a Tatton DC shaft sure isn't going to do him any harm.
 
Kaninja said:
First page I believe he said 2-4" lift was in the future. DC shaft has helped people with a 3-4" with vibes.....and since he has NO front shaft whatsoever, a Tatton DC shaft sure isn't going to do him any harm.
Click to expand...

DC shafts are not required on anything lifted between 2"-4". Some people get the Grrr and some people don't. 1 out of the 6 guys I know with the same lifts didn't need the D.C. Shaft. I needed one and got Curtis the measurements and pattern to make be one years ago.

With the group buy on the D.C. Shafts here. I'm sure someone here would sell him their factory one cheap.
 
He asked about DC shafts. I recommended a DC shaft. I never said must or needed.
 
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