New Rig, need drive shaft and maybe more?

[bulldog8934]

I think your main concern will be to send it to a body shop and have them look it over or put it on a chassis machine.Since it has the original peeling paint will lead me to the concern of undercarriage damage or possibly frame.

I got a body shop on the books. And don't get me wrong, no idea if the paint is original or not, just that it is flaking in some areas. Also, I believe I found the extent of the damage, in one of the pics you can see that the truck was hit from the side and put a dent in the driver side quarter panel while making an area for rust by the rocker. I am planning to get this whole panel area replaced. Also, from doing a much more detailed look under the truck, the frame looks very solid and it drives with little to no vibration even at high speeds. If I can get someone to put it on a chassis machine I will, but that may just be in the "probably not worth it now category." But if it tells me I am SOL, then that may be worth it!

 

[Rwhat]

ding ding! foam with some Flat black paint. it is actually to cover up the rust hole that was there I assume. I am ordering a replacement part of that quarter to get it fixed (should also fix the fat dent in the same quarter panel near the front side of the wheel). This is probably where the accident was and they most likely replaced the rear driverside door but not the body panel.

You have 2 choices, you either fix the minor stuff and drive the s*** out of it or leave well enough alone and drive the s*** out of it. See if the rear door and glass still has the factory VIN.

 

[Rwhat]

I got a body shop on the books. And don't get me wrong, no idea if the paint is original or not, just that it is flaking in some areas. Also, I believe I found the extent of the damage, in one of the pics you can see that the truck was hit from the side and put a dent in the driver side quarter panel while making an area for rust by the rocker. I am planning to get this whole panel area replaced. Also, from doing a much more detailed look under the truck, the frame looks very solid and it drives with little to no vibration even at high speeds. If I can get someone to put it on a chassis machine I will, but that may just be in the "probably not worth it now category." But if it tells me I am SOL, then that may be worth it!

Rear quarter panel with paint will set you back about $4-$5k if you do a full repaint.

 

[Kaninja]

I got a body shop on the books. And don't get me wrong, no idea if the paint is original or not, just that it is flaking in some areas. Also, I believe I found the extent of the damage, in one of the pics you can see that the truck was hit from the side and put a dent in the driver side quarter panel while making an area for rust by the rocker. I am planning to get this whole panel area replaced. Also, from doing a much more detailed look under the truck, the frame looks very solid and it drives with little to no vibration even at high speeds. If I can get someone to put it on a chassis machine I will, but that may just be in the "probably not worth it now category." But if it tells me I am SOL, then that may be worth it!

The frame on these things are ridiculously strong. Either measure it out yourself or take it to a shop that specializes on frame repair and let them have a look. If it drives straight and smooth you are probably on luck. If someone follows behind you and you are cat walking down the road....then something is bent....like on my '96 Ram.

 

[Rwhat]

The frame on these things are ridiculously strong. Either measure it out yourself or take it to a shop that specializes on frame repair and let them have a look. If it drives straight and smooth you are probably on luck. If someone follows behind you and you are cat walking down the road....then something is bent....like on my '96 Ram.

What's the best way for him to measure out the frame himself?

Any odd wear pattern on the tires?

 

[bulldog8934]

You have 2 choices, you either fix the minor stuff and drive the s*** out of it or leave well enough alone and drive the s*** out of it. See if the rear door and glass still has the factory VIN.

Yeah, the goal here is to not really worry about the paint, maybe just fix and have it blended. I am not trying to win any beauty contests in this land cruiser (that is for my 86 928!), I am mostly trying to have it function as it should and the drive it

 

[bulldog8934]

What's the best way for him to measure out the frame himself?

Any odd wear pattern on the tires?

Good question, I would be down to measure it myself, even to get a rough estimate on the frame. Nothing too strange on the tires. I'll get an alignment and see what happens then.

 

[bulldog8934]

Rear quarter panel with paint will set you back about $4-$5k if you do a full repaint.

Just out of curiosity what do you mean by 4-5k for a quarter panel? Or do you mean for a good full respray, I should plan on 4-5k? If the later, I understand, but not trying to win any beauty pageants, just trying to make it look decent, not great.

 

[bulldog8934]

Does the truck have a lift?

Nope

 

[bulldog8934]

If when you rotate one wheel while lifted the other won't move in any direction, then the dif is missing the PO converted the Rig to 2X4

I can test this tomorrow. So lift the truck, then manually spin one of the front wheels? Do I need to lock the transfer case or anything? It looks like the diffs are still there (see pics), but just the driveshaft is gone.

 

[Rwhat]

Just out of curiosity what do you mean by 4-5k for a quarter panel? Or do you mean for a good full respray, I should plan on 4-5k? If the later, I understand, but not trying to win any beauty pageants, just trying to make it look decent, not great.

I haven't seen tha paint in person, but from the looks of it there is no way to blend it. Either replace the quarter for at $1500 plus and figure out another option for color. I would insure the hell out of it and go drive it though the sellers house. Then drink a beer and call it a day.

 

[Desert Dino]

I can test this tomorrow. So lift the truck, then manually spin one of the front wheels? Do I need to lock the transfer case or anything? It looks like the diffs are still there (see pics), but just the driveshaft is gone.

The connection is the dryshaft that is not there!!!

It makes the position of transfer irrelevant

Lift the Rig on the lifting point (see manual) and rotate one of the wheels as if the car is moving forward the other wheel should start rotating as if the car moving backwards

This is called open differential

If the other wheel doesn't spin at all, then you are missing the Diff entrails

If it worked OK as an open Diff then go to the second phase

Then go to your car and operate the front dif E lock see that that the front Dif the light blinks for short time it will stop and become steady light

Then spin the wheel again and now both wheels will spin to the same direction


the diff consist from of external box and an inner egg shape Diff,

 

[bulldog8934]

Well looks like I got the shaft!

Just put the truck on a lift and spun the front tire. No dice on the other one, they just spin freely. Also spun the driveshaft connector at the front diff and it spins freely until it gets to a certain point then "locks" up.

Any thoughts? I am pretty much at a loss now.

 

[BILT4ME]

The front driveshaft on these get removed for three reasons.

1) The viscous coupler in the transfer case seized and the PO didn't like the way it moved.
2) The front differential grenaded and all the guts were removed to make it mobile.
3) All of the above.

Looks like you got door number two and maybe door number three.

In order to make this truck move in RWD only, they had to place the transfer case in LOW, then pull the fuse (this locks the center differential) so that the rear does all the driving. It doesn't hurt anything, it's just that you got screwed. Hard.

You will be looking at a complete front axle rebuild, likely with new birfield axles (Slee has them for about $800 for the set), so you will be looking at $1200 to rebuild the front axle IF the differential is OK.

You truck came factory with the locking differentials (K294 in the VIN). When you turn on the locking differential switch, you SHOULD have (3) LOCKED dash lights. One each for front, center, and rear. The jackhole that you bought this from was OBVIOUSLY trying to deceive, as the center differential lock (CDL) has a light that is supposed to be on when it is engaged. This light has been removed or burned out, otherwise, it would be illuminated 100% of the time in this condition.

Typically a "rebuilt" or salvage" title cut the NADA book value of a vehicle in HALF. It does not matter what year.

The missing driveshaft and exploded drivetrain are at LEAST another $2000 deduction for this truck.

I would bet $$$$$ that the 161K miles that are shown are NOT the actual miles on the truck.

Forget about a double cardan driveshaft unless you are going to jump directly to a 4" lift.

I'm not sure if Illinois is a "buyer beware' state and depending on how much the limit is for small claims court, you MAY spend way more time to recover the $3500 that you should be owed for this deception. What you bought would have been considered almost a "parts truck" to some here and should have been in the $1500 range with all the issues.

Welcome to the forum, I'm sorry it is a painful entry...........

 

[bulldog8934]

Thanks for the honest reply. I see this going one of two ways now. I go after the guy and sue him for anything I can or I take this as an opportunity to learn as much as I can about the truck and make it my own. Personally, I believe that all things come around in the end so I will try to make the best of the situation.

A couple questions/comments:
- When I shift into 4lo the center diff lock engages according to the light on the dash, however, when I select the diff locks, nothing new comes up. What could be going on? (Video is below)
- Do I need to go with new parts for all this from Slee, etc. or would parts from a parts car do just fine?
- If any of you were in my shoes and decided to rebuild the rig, what would be your plan of action knowing what you know now?

As a final comment, as I foresee a rebuild thread coming up, if anyone in the Chicago area or otherwise is up to help with this, I would be forever grateful! There will be plenty of beer and food provided!!

 

[arcteryx]

@BILT4ME did a good job and he is spot on.

You may be able to source a complete front unlocked axle near you for $800 or so, it would bolt right on. beware condition unknown but plan for a knuckle job at least. But you need a driveshaft and there would be no front locker.

I suggest one of 2 options-
1- put as little money into it and drive the snot out of it as a winter vehicle. Get the used front axle and driveshaft and nothing more
2- keep it for a parts truck and buy a better unit. Ideally from a trusted MUD member and not from anywhere close to you because of the rust. Look south and west.

Time, budget and interest will determine what option you choose. As you can see, there is a lot of information and helpful people on this forum.

 

[bulldog8934]

Video of the diff issue from dash

 

[Rwhat]

Just saying if your looking for a good front axle and parts you can't beat arcteryx.

 

[Kaninja]

Video of the diff issue from dash

For you video near the end when you said the center differential should be locked all the time, this is not true. Only when you select 4 low will it signal the center diff to lock.

However with what is going on with your 80 I am thinking the center must be locked but the light just isn't on.

 

[NLXTACY]

Terrain Tamer birfs run about $200ish a piece. The DS you can find in mud classifieds.