I would do the original color. I would do all the prep work & let a shop do the paint.
If you EVER might have the inkling to sell it, then this is what you should do. Do ALL the prep, including removing headlights, tail lights, grille, door handles, flare gaskets, tail lights, tag lights, etc. Do the dent repair, bondo, sanding, and priming, plus wet-sanding. Once you do that, the cost of just cleaning the truck and spraying it goes WAY down.
If you don't care about resale, then you should consider something that will be both easy to apply and something that will last for a very long time. Once you get done, you will NOT want to do this again in 5 years - trust someone with experience here.
If changing color - KISS - Keep It Simple, Stupid!
If doing it yourself, then stick with a single-stage paint and not a base/clear. It won't be quite as showroom, but if you're doing it yourself you're not expecting showroom. This will cut the price in half for the paint as a very good single stage is half the cost of a mid-line base/clear/hardener set.
Buy more than you will use so you have some left for touch-ups later. Store it in an CONDITIONED space like a closet in the house and NOT in a hot garage or attic when you're done and it will last for years as long as the can is sealed.
If you are going to spray yourself and change color, consider a non-metallic paint for several reasons... First, they are MUCH more forgiving on prep work, repairs of fisheye, orangepeel, etc, and MUCH easier to touch up. With single-stage touch up, you sand the spot down, spray the color, hit it with a heat gun and/or UV lamp, and then wet sand and buff. If a metallic two-stage, you must be very careful to blend the base into the existing paint/clear, and you will need to respray the entire body panel. Once you do that, since the new clear won't have a chemical bond with the old base/clear, then you WILL have peeling after it ages. How long will depend on brand, UV exposure, and how well you prep. A non-metallic single stage will NOT do this.
The downsides of a non-metallic single-stage are slightly lower quality "shine" (not as much 'depth' to the paint), not as much "bling", and they show scratches easier than metallic finishes. Not a big deal in my book, but may be for you.
Last, consider using a roll-on bedliner like Al's or even some of the epoxy based marine roll-on paints if you don't mind having a non-factory-type paint. They're very forgiving, nearly indestructable, and you don't have to wax them. From what I understand, when you roll on Al's, you get a semi-smooth finish and you can have it either glossy or flat - or anything in between. I've painted a boat with the marine epoxy paint and the results were EXCELLENT for a roll-on job. They are EXTREMELY durable (not quite as hard as a bed liner, but dang close) and they will lay down flat with a VERY smooth finish. When done right and in the right weather (temp and humidity affect drying time and therefore finish with ANY paint/epoxy/liner), the marine epoxy finishes will imitate a very good single stage professional spray but with a much harder and more durable finish than an automotive paint. The downside to them is that they cost a good bit more, but you can roll it on, so you don't have the cost of the compressor and gun.
Expect to spend $250 for a gallon of GOOD single stage (with reducer, etc) and about $400-$500 for a gallon of good marine epoxy (with hardener, primer, reducer). For Al's, I've heard $200+. For a mid-line two-stage (base/clear/hardener/reducer, etc), then you should plan for $500+ for enough to do a 80 and have a little to spare for touch-ups later.
Good luck!
P.S. - I vote for Desert Tan. Looks sweet on the 80!