Following up on a new noise on my 97 80 series here. I recently had a noise that was like a rumbling, clunking that occurred mainly at initial take off from a stop. The noise turned out to be hose clamps vibrating on the firewall. Problem was fixed but it took my mechanic several hours to figure out. In the process of diagnosing the noise, my mechanic removed the front driveshaft to see of the noise went away. Removing the drive shaft did not make the noise go away, so he reinstalled it. Fast forward to now and I’ve noticed for the last week since I’ve picked it up at the shop that it has a new noise / vibration. The noise / vibration only occurs between approx 60 and 65mph under load on the highway. It’s like a wheel out of balance feeling. I can feel the vibration in my boots through the floorboard. This vibration was not present prior to having the hose clamp noise addressed, so I don’t believe it’s a wheel balance issue. It was smooth as silk only a few weeks ago. I crawled under it to look around and noticed the front drive shaft is installed in phase - like the rear. I could have sworn it was out of phase prior to being removed and reinstalled by my mechanic. From reading through this forum, looks like it should be 90 degrees out of phase. Could being in phase cause the vibration at only a speed range of 60-65mph? I did take the truck up to 75mph then popped it in neutral and coasted down to 30mph with no vibtration observed. If this is likely the problem, how hard is it for a weekend mechanic hack like me to remove and reinstall correctly? I’m skilled enough to use a torque wrench but by no means a certified Toyota technician. Oil changes are about as far as I usually go or have time or desire to perform. And...would running the front shaft in phase be causing any damage? Muchas gracias!
New noise- I think driveline / driveshaft
- Thread starter Indiana80
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Should’ve also mentioned, there seems to be a very slight grrr noise (could be confused with exhaust resonatation) associated with the above mentioned vibration.
I’d take it back to your “mechanic” and make him putnthe front shaft back to a correct out of phase configuration. He/she probably never saw that configuration before and thought he was doing youba favor.
The front propeller shaft must be out of phase unless your rig is lifted over about 2.5” and then you are in double cardan territory.
The front propeller shaft must be out of phase unless your rig is lifted over about 2.5” and then you are in double cardan territory.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Id like to understand why an out of phase driveshaft is preferred. I know toyota says it should be that way... but why?
Only on the front due to both yokes being broken over in the same direction to meet their respective companion flange.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Nope. Because that config still specs that the driveshafts be in phase.
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- #7
Looks like I’ve started some lively debate...I’m firing up the popcorn. Meanwhile, do you all think an in phase installation of front driveshaft could cause vibration / grrr only in a speed range of only 60-65mph under load?
Sounds to me like it could be a universal joint. see if you can feel any slop by turning the drive shaft back and ford while holding the end. And try unbolting the drive shaft and see if the uni's move freely, if not, that's probably making a noise. Replacing a universal joint isn't a big job you just need a big hammer , a vice, and a grinder with a cut off wheel.
Cheers
Alex
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So it seems that the the front driveline yokes of a stock 80 are on the same vertical plane but slightly different lateral planes.
To further derail this thread....what do you need the grinder/cut off wheel for? That's not a tool I've ever used when changing Ujoints...
When you belt the universal out of the yoke, you still cant get the end of the drive shaft off. So I cut the a bit out of the uni (That bit is getting replaced anyway). I suppose you could drive the bearing cup out the way you pushed it in, but there is no lead-in on the bearing cup in that direction, so you could damage the drive shaft. Im no expert i just do what i have to do to get the job done.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Even then, its typically spec'd as in phase. Maybe the misalignment is so slight its worth it in an awd application to keep some degree of tension on the center diff. Or something. Who knows.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Toyota installed them both in phase and out of phase in different year models with no explanation why the difference.
There's no need to separate the slip yolk to R&R the driveshaft. If your mechanic changed yours, the balancing may be out.
Also, if the uni joints are worn, and phasing has been changed, the needle rollers in the uni will be operating in a new alignment, and wear will be different. Wear would be highlighted by the change in alignment
If you're mechanic "did you a favour" with phasing, also check if he installed the drive shaft correctly with the slip yolk end over the sway bar. This is something Toyota also did backward to the typical orientation.
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Alright, back to the top. Yesterday I removed front driveshaft. There were yellow paint markings from PO or factory for alignment of the two sections (aligned out of phase). I separated the shaft, cleaned it out, greased up the spline with moly and put it back together out of phase per old alignment marks. I reinstalled per FSM torque specs. Vibration noise still there- mostly noticeable between 60 and 65mph- and no change from before. Can feel it especially in my feet on DS, seat and sounds like it’s in firewall, console area or somewhere forward of that. Before I take it back to mechanic, I’m going to pull front driveshaft again and drive it with CDL engaged. If the noise / vibration is gone or still there between 60 and 65mph with front DS out what all could this indicate?
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I should mention again, this noise / vibration is present only when under load at highway speed when I am accelerating or gassing to maintain a highway speed.
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- #18
Also, from take off to about 55mph, there is no abnormal noise or vibration. Just the normal road noise of my KO2’s.
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Is the moly grease level correct (~1/2-3/4 full) in the knuckles?
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- #20
Yes, moly grease is about 3/4 in the knuckles.
