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DeepBarney

DeepBarney

Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Threads
6
Messages
96
Location
Wichita, Kansas
Went and picked this old 88 FJ62 up the other day with my brother. Plan is to use it for our next lemons rally vehicle. She's far from mint but not the crustiest vehicle I've owned or driven across continent.
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So far we've diagnosed that the fuel pump doesn't work and that we don't have power back to it (pump still not running when supplying 12 volts to it directly). Also what is this piece I broke vacuuming the acorns out and is it important?
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The broken piece is the "filter" on a VSV vacuum switching valve... when a VSV is energized it opens one side or the other of the vacuum hoses coming to it (I forget which) to atmosphere through that filter (or now open hole). It will run fine without the filter but could suck contaminants into system as is.
 
erics said:
The broken piece is the "filter" on a VSV vacuum switching valve... when a VSV is energized it opens one side or the other of the vacuum hoses coming to it (I forget which) to atmosphere through that filter (or now open hole). It will run fine without the filter but could suck contaminants into system as is.
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It will probably make an irritating whistle too.
 
DeepBarney said:
Went and picked this old 88 FJ62 up the other day with my brother. Plan is to use it for our next lemons rally vehicle. She's far from mint but not the crustiest vehicle I've owned or driven across continent.
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So far we've diagnosed that the fuel pump doesn't work and that we don't have power back to it (pump still not running when supplying 12 volts to it directly). Also what is this piece I broke vacuuming the acorns out and is it important?
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I hope the rules are the last one across the finish line wins!🤣🤣

That’ll be a cool project and a fun race! Careful though, you might fall in love with it and catch the insanity.
 
it was last registered in Gallatin county MT, Bozeman area.
nice find

nice hood prop.

drain the gas and drop the tank for the fuel pump,
get a Denso pump around $100 bucks
 
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Thanks for the info on the vacuum filter. I can probably repair it with a bit of g flex epoxy, but it's good to know that it's not critical even if I can't. I'd be real surprised if I can hear the whistle over the rest of the road noise this thing is going to have. The rusty leaf spring squeaks alone will probably be sufficient to drive me to drinking. Haha

This one won't be used for a lemons race. The rally is more like a multi day road trip/scavenger hunt in hoopty cars. Our last one was a $200 Ford Contour with mystery electrical Gremlins dressed up as a British Ford Mondeo cop car (complete with a big furry mustache). We had a blast flogging it across 5 states in as many days for a total of around 3500miles.

The coworker I got the FJ from bought it and had it up in Montana but eventually brought it down to Kansas where it was last registered in 2012 if I remember right. Then it was parked at his buddy's body shop waiting for one of them to get around to doing something with it, but time moved on and more kids were had so that day never came. Now I have it and the goal is to get it running and reliable so I can use it for some fun road trips until I decide to move onto a new project.

The gas is already drained and several bolt heads rounded trying to get the spare tire carrier dropped. New pump showed up yesterday and I've got a box full of cut off wheels and new hardware ready to go.
 
6 point sockets are your friends

from the few pics, the body appears decent, no big rust holes even in the rear quarters

my wifes cousin did a similar rally in Oregon? a couple years ago, find a beater, get it running and have fun. It wasn't the mileage you guys did but it was several hundred miles if I remember correctly.
He said they had a great time doing the rally.
 
3_puppies said:
6 point sockets are your friends

from the few pics, the body appears decent, no big rust holes even in the rear quarters

my wifes cousin did a similar rally in Oregon? a couple years ago, find a beater, get it running and have fun. It wasn't the mileage you guys did but it was several hundred miles if I remember correctly.
He said they had a great time doing the rally.
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Unfortunately it was my six point that did the rounding. There's just a lot of corrosion in that area of this truck. If I had room to hammer on a smaller SAE socket I would have.

If the event was in Oregon and shorter distance I bet it was a gambler 500 rally they did. Those are pretty popular in a lot of fun by the looks of it.
 
Be prepared for the tank to be completely full of rust. That’s usually why the fuel pumps don’t work.
 
cruisermatt said:
Be prepared for the tank to be completely full of rust. That’s usually why the fuel pumps don’t work.
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Yeah I am. The plan, once I get the tank dropped, is to dump some distilled vinegar, nuts and bolts into it, seal it back up, and then shake it it around until my arms give out. Worked well in the past for my old motorcycle projects. Just going to be a lot more work here.
 
Well we got the old fuel pump out and replaced it with a new one.
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Haven't figured out why we don't have power back to it yet but we were able to use a jump pack to run the pump and start it up. Wanted idle around 2000 RPM. So we pulled the idle air control valve off, took it apart, manually adjusted it to the fully closed position, and then reinstalled it. With that done it would idle around 700-800 RPM. Even managed to take it for a short drive around the farm. Definitely going to need some suspension work. He's got a hell of a death wobble around 45 mph. I did manage to identify and (temporarily) sort out one of the rattles though.
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no power to the fuel pump?
check the connector in the driver quarter panel, it is below the jack mount in the rear cargo area,
or
see the wires going into the quarter panel behind the mudflap, remove the rubber plug and pull out the connector
 
3_puppies said:
no power to the fuel pump?
check the connector in the driver quarter panel, it is below the jack mount in the rear cargo area,
or
see the wires going into the quarter panel behind the mudflap, remove the rubber plug and pull out the connector
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Yep we don't have power there. Seems to be dead somewhere up front. I need to try and get a wiring diagram and see if I can trace the circuit to find where the short is.
 
DeepBarney said:
Yep we don't have power there. Seems to be dead somewhere up front. I need to try and get a wiring diagram and see if I can trace the circuit to find where the short is.
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no power where?
at the pump?
or
at the connector in the rear quarter panel?
 
the 4 wires in the connector/plug in the quarter panel, 2 are for the gas gauge and 2 are for the pump
did you try jumping the power to the fuel pump in the diagnostic port under the hood?
 
3_puppies said:
the 4 wires in the connector/plug in the quarter panel, 2 are for the gas gauge and 2 are for the pump
did you try jumping the power to the fuel pump in the diagnostic port under the hood?
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Couldn't get continuity through the diagnostic port under the hood.
 
I just went through this myself.

Here's the circuit diagram from the FSM. If I'm reading it right, for the fuel pump to work, the main relay needs to send 12v to the circuit opening relay, which sends 12v to the fuel pump. Jumping +B and FP on the diagnostic port takes the circuit opening relay out of the equation, and sends 12v to the fuel pump straight from the main relay.

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You can test each relay in sequence. When cranking, look for 12v at the yellow/red wire coming out of the main relay (the one mounted near the air box on the passenger fender wall). The yellow/red wire goes to the circuit opening relay, so you can test for 12v there as well. The circuit opening relay is mounted on the right side of the passenger footwell - you have to remove the plastic cover to get to it, and you may need to remove some other relays and brackets to get at it. See if the yellow/red wire is hot, again while cranking. Or maybe it's hot with the key in the "On" position - I don't recall. Try both I guess.

The red/green wire from the circuit opening relay runs directly back to the fuel pump. If you don't have 12v to the red/green wire at the circuit opening relay (while cranking), the relay may be bad. You can also test for continuity between the relay and the fuel pump harness connector in the rear driver's side quarter. If there's a broken wire along the way somewhere, you won't have continuity between the two.

My fuel pump problems ended up being a bad ground. The fuel pump ground actually runs all the way back up to the front, at the left front pillar. The under-dash grounds are notoriously unreliable, so I just ended up tying a new ground in the rear quarter and my pump works well now.

Here's the wiring diagram showing the wire colours etc. Good luck!

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Further: if you're not getting 12v on the red wire at the main relay while cranking, I think that means the ECU isn't sending the signal to the relay, which I suppose means the ECU is bad, or the ECU isn't getting a signal from the MAF that air is flowing through the intake so it's ok to go ahead and send fuel etc.
 
diesellibrarian said:
Further: if you're not getting 12v on the red wire at the main relay while cranking, I think that means the ECU isn't sending the signal to the relay, which I suppose means the ECU is bad, or the ECU isn't getting a signal from the MAF that air is flowing through the intake so it's ok to go ahead and send fuel etc.
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Awesome info! Thanks, I appreciate the help.
 
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